Seized oil line adaptor - advice please

[Stevee]

My apologies - I did see a post about this subject but I am unable to find it.
As a Laverda novice I have set about rebuilding a 1983 Jota 120 - the engine is now back in the freshly powder coated frame only for me to discover that I need to remove the M12-M16 adaptor for the case-oil line junction in order to fit the new oil lines.
Unfortunately, the one on the left is stuck
I have tried penetrating oil daily; heat (a bit limited by trying to protect the frame and engine mounts); shocking the nut with a hammer - and still it refuses to move.
Its difficult to get purchase with a spanner and the 'nut' is now starting to look a little tired. There isn't enough space to get my socket & ratchet inbetween case and frame.
Any ideas? Anybody made a special tool? Has the case been damaged by anyone trying too hard?

 

[sfcpiet]

They're always very tight, especially if they've been sitting there for the past 30-odd years.

A well-fitting six-point socket and long breaker bar are often the only option.  Might mean lifting the lump out of the frame again.  Don't worry too much about tearing off the hex part, the remainder is usually very easy to remove as tension is lost the moment the hex is gone...   Just need to find a new one then.  But then, it doesn't happen very often.

Why do you need to remove them in the first place?  Stock spec oil lines can be fitted and removed with the engine and adapters in situ.

piet

 

[Stevee]

Thanks - unfortunately, I could not find any standard spec oil lines - do you know who sells them?
I'm hoping just to move the engine over a little to get the hex in rather than doing the full blown removal - unless anyone has any other bright idea
Has anyone had any luck with an offset socket?

 

[CLEMTOG]

non stock oil lines, and additions (such as an external cartridge filter) need very special examination, because the oiling system on your bike relies on quantity of oil, not pressure, it is a high volume very low pressure system, consequently it is very easy to induce restrictions when non standard oil line adapters and components are used, there are many, many options of hose and fittings and plenty are perfectly ok, I have seem a couple that are definitely small bore regardless of what size they are actually called. My entire working career was pipes of any type or material, from 3mm bore right up to 700mm.
CLEM
ITFGHT (industrial tubular fluid and gases handling technician)

 

[Paul Marx]

Don't bugger up the crankcase. Easy to do.

Paul

 

[Rob]

I could not find any standard spec oil lines - do you know who sells them?

Goodridge should be able to supply something that fits - certainly a popular fitment when originality wasn't an issue.
https://www.goodridge.co.uk/  They hold details for most Laverda fitments. 
There are alternatives - such as Earl's http://www.earls.co.uk/

Otherwise, try OCT in Germany; Wolfgang in Canada for original or close replica lines
OCT (00 49) 22 51 97 07 52 or email octeam@gmx.de
Wolfgang (001) 250 265 4502 - remember he's 8hrs behind UK!! - or email laverda@lightspeed.ca

 

[sfcpiet]

If the original fittings are present, the hose is a standard size 8mm/ 5/16" ID oil/fuel line and is easily replaced.  Early triples had simple slip-on fittings, the later had more elegant 2-piece fittings that simply screw together once the hose is inserted in the hex "ferrule", very similar to fittings for braided PTFE brake lines.

piet

 

[Stevee]

The offset socket hasn't had time to arrive but thanks to the advice from piet I realised it was safe to risk the outer part of the seized connector. I used a nut splitter (which got hold of the connector far better than any spanner) and stuck a breaker bar on the end - with little effort the connector was free  .

I had already invested in a set of new lines and adaptors from Motalia (Earls parts with some custom adaptors I think) - I will check the bore versus the original, but they are a bit longer - I am sure Clem knows that will slow the flow, but hopefully not by much.

Thanks for all the help
Steve

 

[CLEMTOG]

reverse flush your oil cooler with paraffin from a header tank about eight feet higher than the cooler and see what comes out! any extra length at all to the hose will cause them to bend and touch an exhaust pipe or frame tube, too short and well they are too short, they do have to be the exact length, my advice is to send them back unused, I don't know why this happens, he also sells brake flexibles that are too long and stainless bolt kits that are both too long and too short, and stainless flywheels pullers that pull of the flywheel thread, and 7mm chain tensioner screws that are deburred to the point where an 11m spanner rounds them off etc etc
CLEM

 

[Rob]

You're better off talking direct with Earl's - UK operation based at Silverstone - I found them very helpful and knowledgeable, particularly if you can give them a pattern (or bike!)  to work with

 

[Haggis]

+1 for Earles. Great outfit there.