Seized up clutch on Laverda 500

J

JS

New member
Location
Finland
Hi

I need some help with my frozen clutch on Laverda 500. Looks like my clutch is stuck and it is not possible to operate with the push rod. Is it stuck plates or could it be something else?

-jani-
 
Could be friction plates stuck to the metal plates in the clutch, a common problem.
Only cure I found was replacement of the friction plates and cleaning the metal plates.
 
Start it.
Warm it.
Run beside and jump on.
Go through the gears and use back brake firmly whilst in gear and pulling the clutch in.

If it fails, dismantle it and clean plates in solvent.

Paul

 
I have never found a permanent (or even temporary) solution by washing the plates in solvent.

Also, pushing it along then banging it into gear is all good and well, but if it does not free off, then what?

I also tried placing the front wheel against a wall, healthy revs and bang it into gear.
But I felt it was going to lead to other more expensive gearbox problems.

I think the plates stick to each other due to some interaction between the oil (certain brands worse than others?) and the binder in the friction material.
Once it is affected it seems just to return again sooner than later.

I just don't take that risk any longer. New plates, (preferably Kevlar, available I know for the triples at least) and the job is done.
 
you for the help. Yep all plates were like clued together. After soaking plates in ultrasound bath they were separated after that cleaning with the brake cleaner and back to the bike. Problem gone for a moment.
 
JS said:
you for the help. Yep all plates were like clued together. After soaking plates in ultrasound bath they were separated after that cleaning with the brake cleaner and back to the bike. Problem gone for a moment.
Click to expand...

Good, now depends on what oil is in the engine. Plates will stick with some oils and not others.

Grant, I cleaned sticky clutch plates with solvent on my SF2 25 years ago. They don't stick any more.

Paul
 
I was doing mine once a week.
Only solution was replacement.
Leave it unridden for more than 2 days and the plates were solid again.
 
Grant said:
I was doing mine once a week.
Only solution was replacement.
Leave it unridden for more than 2 days and the plates were solid again.
Click to expand...

Bloody hell!! You sure it wasn't Selley's Kwik-Grip in the engine instead of oil, Grant?! Sounds like a lubrication anomaly to me.
 
Phil and Red do a mod where they drill a bunch of holes in the clutch hub, maybe this is the reason.
 
Grant said:
I was doing mine once a week.
Only solution was replacement.
Leave it unridden for more than 2 days and the plates were solid again.
Click to expand...

Very much an oil related problem I should think.
I haven't had that problem in donkeys years.

Paul
 
Hope Phil or Red pipes up about the clutch holes, it was something about letting oil in or out. Don't remember the details
 
Probably cooling holes allied to weight saving and if skimmed as well then balancing.
 
These little babies run hot and when the bike cools, the clutch often gets stuck. Trust me, I've been racing these things for the past four years and it is a persistent problem.

It is nothing to do with oil.

One way I got round it was to keep the clutch lever depressed while the bike cooled down (A strong rubber band did the trick).

The best solution however was to get a set of kevlar plates from Red, which are absolutely the dog's b******s.

Cheers


G
 
I beg to disagree, but I have been riding Laverda motorcycles for over 40 years, and my clutches do not stick, however long the bike is stood unused. All the clutch plates are original Laverda, not Kevlar.

It has everything to do with oil.

Paul
 
Paul, we are mostly long termers on Laverdas here.
In my (also) over 40 years experience Laverda clutches can and do stick.
Depends how they were ridden, how long they were unused, what type of oil was used and so on.
It's good that we all can have differing views on a range of matters.
 
The clutch basket fitted to my RGS has those holes, I assume they are ther to drain oil from the clutch assembly by centrifugal force.
 
I've never deemed it necessary to drill any holes in my clutch drums.  In fact, I prefer them closed as they act as a centrifugal filter that collects clutch wear debris nicely and keeps it out of the engine.  This can be cleaned out when the time comes to renew the primary chain.

I'm also convinced many clutch sticking, as well as slipping,  issues are oil-related, I have managed to resurrect several clutches simply by cleaning and changing to a different oil type/brand.  A couple have refused to co-operate, turned out new plates were the only alternative.  Badly worn basket and/or hub splines aren't helpful.

piet
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top