- Location
- Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Hi all
I seem to have misplaced my Laverda manual, hopefully temporarily..... 1981 Series 2 180 1200. On the right side, gear shift timing mechanism inside the outer cover removed to then remove the larger cover with the hydraulic clutch slave in it.
front sprocket/rear sprocket and chain all replaced, clutch slave rebuilt, ready to refit the two covers over the front sprocket. First, the large cover with the hydraulic slave, new heavily greased ball bearing on end of clutch slave piston, install the entire cover. I will come back to the clutch question....
now to refit the internal gearshift shifter/timing mechanism. I make sure the transmission is in neutral, which results in the internal timing mark resting at 3:00 o'clock inside the case. Then I align the corresponding timing mark (on the round geared shaft with the four shifter pins) to the 3:00 o'clock timing mark inside the case as I insert the round geared shaft.
that should time the shifter mechanism accurately, right.......?
as I haven't adjusted the eccentric screw adjuster on the cover, I then just slip the internal rotating shifter arm mechanism/spring onto its shaft and over the eccentric, line the two teeth of the arm in the pins on the round geared shaft, and should be good, right......?
then, the only remaining issue will be the stupid overall design that doesn't locate the large cover on locating pins, so I may have to loosen the cover bolts and bash the cover placement up and forwards a bit if necessary if the mechanism binds in use, right......
anyway, could someone confirm and or clarify, thanks!
for the clutch operation itself, although I am waiting for a delivery of new clutch plates, I went ahead and put the clutch and primary back together to be able to move forward as I have a bunch of other stuff to install and dial in. I pulled and cleaned the two actuating through rods and the small ball bearing between them, made sure the actuator arm under the clutch spring plate housing that the rod pushes on is clean and straight. So, the two actuator rods and small bearing are fine, other than a possible length issue. However, to fit the right side clutch slave cover with its proper ball bearing, even opening the clutch slave bleeder to allow the slave piston to retract fully against its little internal spring, it is a tough fit for the cover as if the actuator rods are maybe a bit long..... when I took the original assembly apart, it was missing the ball bearing that is supposed to be rotating on the end of the clutch slave piston... so bottom line, does anyone know how much the clutch actuator rod should be sticking out through the front sprocket for a proper fit?
I don't have any oil in the motor, and the clutch is coming apart again once the new plates arrive, but I would like to solve the clutch rod actuating rod length issue, as I know they come in various lengths, and of course I managed to forget to measure the lengths of the existing rods, although I will when I pull it apart again shortly..... It strikes me that the really important measurement to know would be how far the clutch actuating rods should stick out from the front sprocket towards the clutch slave piston.... anyone?
the clutch works fine as it now is, but the operation is much heavier than I think it should be, even with freshly rebuilt master and slave cylinders and new stainless line.
Paul LeClair
.
I seem to have misplaced my Laverda manual, hopefully temporarily..... 1981 Series 2 180 1200. On the right side, gear shift timing mechanism inside the outer cover removed to then remove the larger cover with the hydraulic clutch slave in it.
front sprocket/rear sprocket and chain all replaced, clutch slave rebuilt, ready to refit the two covers over the front sprocket. First, the large cover with the hydraulic slave, new heavily greased ball bearing on end of clutch slave piston, install the entire cover. I will come back to the clutch question....
now to refit the internal gearshift shifter/timing mechanism. I make sure the transmission is in neutral, which results in the internal timing mark resting at 3:00 o'clock inside the case. Then I align the corresponding timing mark (on the round geared shaft with the four shifter pins) to the 3:00 o'clock timing mark inside the case as I insert the round geared shaft.
that should time the shifter mechanism accurately, right.......?
as I haven't adjusted the eccentric screw adjuster on the cover, I then just slip the internal rotating shifter arm mechanism/spring onto its shaft and over the eccentric, line the two teeth of the arm in the pins on the round geared shaft, and should be good, right......?
then, the only remaining issue will be the stupid overall design that doesn't locate the large cover on locating pins, so I may have to loosen the cover bolts and bash the cover placement up and forwards a bit if necessary if the mechanism binds in use, right......
anyway, could someone confirm and or clarify, thanks!
for the clutch operation itself, although I am waiting for a delivery of new clutch plates, I went ahead and put the clutch and primary back together to be able to move forward as I have a bunch of other stuff to install and dial in. I pulled and cleaned the two actuating through rods and the small ball bearing between them, made sure the actuator arm under the clutch spring plate housing that the rod pushes on is clean and straight. So, the two actuator rods and small bearing are fine, other than a possible length issue. However, to fit the right side clutch slave cover with its proper ball bearing, even opening the clutch slave bleeder to allow the slave piston to retract fully against its little internal spring, it is a tough fit for the cover as if the actuator rods are maybe a bit long..... when I took the original assembly apart, it was missing the ball bearing that is supposed to be rotating on the end of the clutch slave piston... so bottom line, does anyone know how much the clutch actuator rod should be sticking out through the front sprocket for a proper fit?
I don't have any oil in the motor, and the clutch is coming apart again once the new plates arrive, but I would like to solve the clutch rod actuating rod length issue, as I know they come in various lengths, and of course I managed to forget to measure the lengths of the existing rods, although I will when I pull it apart again shortly..... It strikes me that the really important measurement to know would be how far the clutch actuating rods should stick out from the front sprocket towards the clutch slave piston.... anyone?
the clutch works fine as it now is, but the operation is much heavier than I think it should be, even with freshly rebuilt master and slave cylinders and new stainless line.
Paul LeClair
.
). The ratio between master and slave is not optimal. Even for Ducatis, you find different slave cylinders as aftermarket-items to change the ratio...