Series 2 primary drive dismantling

L

laverda180

Junior member
Location
Amberley, New Zealand
I am stripping my series 2 180 for the first time myself and see that the primary drive nut arrangement seems to be different to that in the available manuals, parts lists etc.. After the Witt and primary cover are off I find the inner race for the primary drive cover bearing which slides easily off the crankshaft, then there appears to be a bush and a thick washer before the primary nut with the lock washer behind that. The bush appears to be an interference fit on the crank. Is it? I assume heat it up with a propane gas burner and it slides off readily with a gloved hand. Or?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0187.jpg
    IMG_0187.jpg
    112.1 KB · Views: 239
Use a rattle gun to undo the nut and it pushes that right off.
 
The races are a tight sliding fit on the crank.  No heat required, maybe a couple of soft taps to replace.

piet
 
Assuming its the same setup as on an RGS, the sleeve that slides off easily is for the oil seal, you can see the two marks made by the seal lips. The one you refer to as a bush is in fact the bearing inner race, that's not a washer behind it, the race is stepped. HTH
 
No rattle gun! You are going to need the proper tool to hold the sprocket to torque the nut when put it back together anyway. So make the tool now. It does not need to look exactly like the one in the manual. Mine is made out of scrap metal with two bolts to engage the pegs in the sprocket. Torque to 120 ft lbs with Loctite.

Not Laverda specific, but I have seen other bikes with pressed together cranks get twisted out of alignment from rattle guns on the crank.
 
1200ts said:
No rattle gun!  You are going to need the proper tool to hold the sprocket to torque the nut when put it back together anyway. So make the tool now. It does not need to look exactly like the one in the manual. Mine is made out of scrap metal with two bolts to engage the pegs in the sprocket.Torque to 120 ft lbs with Loctite.

Not Laverda specific, but I have seen other bikes with pressed together cranks get twisted out of alignment from rattle guns on the crank.
Click to expand...

And bend the gearbox mainshaft while you're at it...  if you really mean to have to block the crank, support the tool somewhere else.

Over the years, the rattle gun has proved to be the most reliable and at the same time most gentle method of tightening the Jesus nut.  If you do manage to re-phase the crank with a rattle gun, it wouldn't stand to the rigours of service anyway.

piet
 
Piet,

I completely agree about not putting a load on the gearbox main shaft. My tool does not touch anything other than the sprocket.

If you say a rattle gun is OK on a Laverda, I will take your word for it. On more than a few British singles with pressed together cranks I have seen a rattle gun fuck them up. On a Velocette it is guaranteed to twist the crank alignment.

Bruce

My tool made out of scrap metal. Handle is much longer than it needs to be but it allows it to touch the ground when working on the nut.
 

Attachments

  • tool2.jpg
    tool2.jpg
    35.4 KB · Views: 101
  • tool1.jpg
    tool1.jpg
    59.6 KB · Views: 103
Mine is made out of a length of mild steel pipe that I had lying around, the diameter just happening to be the same as the distance between the holes on the sprocket. I cut the end of the pipe so that two tangs were left which, once dressed, fitted perfectly. Got a mate to weld a long length of smaller diameter pipe on as a handle which sits nicely on the footpeg when torqueing up the Jesus nut.
 
Hmm, now you have me worried. I made a copy of the factory tool which as you know hooks around the main shaft. As rattle gun would not work; electric and not quite man enough, I resorted to a 1/2? drive socket, Tommy bar and ?extension?, and now the nut is in my greasy mitt. But you say this method can result in a bent main shaft! Seriously?

Problem for me was engine was on the bench and resting tool on bench simply lifted the engine even when strapped down, only bolting it down may have secured it well enough to release the nut without locking crank to main shaft.
 
Go and borrow ya mates rattle gun...... the one with bigger cohunnies than yours  :-*

Air operated the go !

Put some heat on it as it may have some loctite on thread !
 
A tip when splitting the cases. The stud under the starter motor is inclined with respect to all the others which are otherwise parallel. So remove the entire stud not just the nut, the cases are far easier to split. See fig 148, page 72 of workshop manual. Old ne2s to many I am sure, but was new for me.
 
laverda180 said:
A tip when splitting the cases. The stud under the starter motor is inclined with respect to all the others which are otherwise parallel. So remove the entire stud not just the nut, the cases are far easier to split. See fig 148, page 72 of workshop manual. Old ne2s to many I am sure, but was new for me.
Click to expand...

??

No way, only if it is bent.

All case studs are inserted perpendicularly into the crankcase halves.

piet
 
agree 100% with my learned friend Piet, perpendicular it is, but that is very often the stud with corrosion and sometimes to a serious degree, get the penetrating oil on the second you remove the nut and washer, if it is realy, realy stuck, there is a way, involving a stick welder, but I hope you don't need it, do not split the joint with chisels.
CLEM
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top