Series 2 wiring

B

bear

New member
Hi all
Iam changing the wiring on my 76 3cl from cdi to btz, I only have a series 1 from the green book.
So can someone please put a series 2 wiring diagram up please
All the best
Bear aus
 
So you are fitting BTZ ignition to a CDI bike? And all the electrical boxes and sub looms that go with it?
You do know that a series 2 engine is the one with bigger alternator on the right and ignition triggers on 5he lfet side of the engine?
I think you need a series 1 loom if this is your intention.
 
As Grant says, if you still have a Bosch alternator and triggers on the right hand side then the series two diagram probably isn't what you're after.  In any case, I don't think one was produced by the factory - instead use a Jota 120 or RGS diagram.  You probably need a late series 1 BTZ diagram, published in the 2nd edition of the green book.  If you're an ILOC member, the diagram is available from the online library.

If you do need s series 2 diagram, Cape produced this that may help you - http://www.laverdaforum.com/forum/index.php/topic,83215.msg179519.html#msg179519

Reggie's question is a good one!!
 
Hi
I already have a new ignition , iam changing the main harness from multi single connector in headlight.
Have a brand new wire harness from Wolfgang, but it is a s2 , some I need a wiring diagram s2 so I can see what go where.only have early one from green book
Thanks
Bear
 
When I got my new 81 jota it had a wiring diagram in the book so there is one out there. Iam on my 4th ignition std/ Witt / redax , there is something wrong with the wiring? So changing the main loom on this bike.
 
Don't recognise the point of the exercise... the BTZ system is only marginally more reliable than the earlier CDI/HKZ, performance is just as mediocre.  AND, you need a good battery.  The CDI bikes will run without a battery if the engine stop relay is manipulated.

Junk the lot and fit a modern digital system.

piet
 
The way I read it he has one of Red's ignitions fitted already. A new harness from Wolfgang so need to know what wire goes where.
What's the difference between a S1 and S2 harness once the ignition/alt has been upgraded?
 
Different in a few places. Most obvious will be in headlamp shell.
I received a series 2 loom in error once (for a series 1 bike) and didn't use it as I didn't want to hack about a brand new loom.
 
Hi Bear A series 1 loom is very simple. if you are  a little creative you can convert this loom to take plug in connectors for most circuits ie lighting handlebar switches ignition etc, this will can get the mass connections out of the headlight shell and to an easier position to unplug although one of my Laverda brothers further north of me believes in dry connections within the headlight shell.
 
The series 2 is a somewhat more "modern" wiring harness, quite different.  For starters it has 4 fuses, with multiple circuits running up the spine frame where the S1 just runs 1 active up there and deals with it all in the headlight.  I've not worked on many S1's but IIRC one fuse runs the brake light, the other runs everything else, which is not a great design really.  The S1 harness is much smaller and thus neater where it runs up the spine.  Like many I had nightmares when I saw photos of the mess in the headlight, but when I was working on Eddie's 1200 I grew some respect of it, it's not a bad system at all other than being a bit crowded in there.  Eddie's bike started out more corroded than any bike I've ever seen (UK import) and although I had to re-terminate most of the wires to get rid of corrosion, it was all in surprisingly good order given the condition of the bike.  I started out figuring I would rewire it with plugs etc as per the OP but after some familiarisation I came to realise there was little point as the system is solid if things are in good order.

The main failing of the S1 harness in my view (and actually I think it's the same for all) is that there is no earth wire going into the headlight, they rely on earthing through the steering head bearings/frame.  I threaded a good earth wire from the main earthing point to the new coil bracket/frame and then on up into the headlight to earth everything properly in there.  Well worth doing on any bike that does not have it already, will solve many weird problems.

 
I know of 4 different looms for 180 triples:

Early big headlight 3C loom (has weird metal connector blocks in headlamp)
Regular 'CDI type' loom (has weird plastic connector blocks in headlamp)
Regular series 1 'BTZ type' loom (has Japanese type block connectors in headlamp)
Series 2 'BTZ type' loom (has less connectors in headlamp, with switchgear connector blocks beside the coils)
 
Had the same problem when rebuilding the 3C with BTZ (read DMC) instead of CDI ignition. The old loom that came with the bike looked like from a later bike and was rotten anyway, so I did rebuild a new loom from scratch, including the conversion to DMC ignition. While at it, I improved things here and there, mainly:
-instead of the CDI engine cut-out relais  I have added a mains relais, so only rather small currents going over the ignition switch now.
-6 fuses.
-updated ground wiring.

I tried to keep the original Laverda wire colours to some extent, see my wiring diagramm below. Might be helpful. Ignition pickup wires are not included in the diagram, and only front (bar end) indicators.
Wiring1000_3C_BTZ.jpg


Regards,
Stefan
 
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