SF crank locking tool

Fitz

Fitz

Senior member
Location
Cheshire UK
Hello all, does anyone have the special tool to lock the primary drive up and remove the crank nut, early SF750

Cheshire UK, I am happy to pay a deposit and borrow one, hopefully I will only need it twice, once to undo the nut, split the bottom end then rebuild it 3 weeks max while I wait for parts arrving

Cheers Dave Fitz'
 
Use a cordless rattle gun and a deep 32mm socket, quite cheap these days.
No crank locking tool required.
 
This nut spun off using a very heavy duty Snap on impact gun and deep socket - good tip thanks, I will need the special tool to lock it all up to get the correct torque setting when I rebuild
 
Fitz,

Here?s a locking tool for you.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAVERDA-holding-tool-750-GT-SF-SFC-for-29t-22t-gear-ALL-ONE-8MM-X-450MM-LONG/264713099310?hash=item3da221582e:g:E4YAAOSw9y1csXbn

Ian
 
Grant said:
Use a cordless rattle gun and a deep 32mm socket, quite cheap these days.
No crank locking tool required.
Click to expand...

Grant, why cordless? doesn't work with a normal air impact gun? and by the way... what is the official torque value for that nut? I remember I put a piece of metal from the teeths of the left sprocket to the other one on the right (the clutch), just the appropriate meassure to work on one sproket against the other, and deep enough to hold the three lines of teeths. It worked beautifully.
Miguel.
 
michipons said:
Grant, why cordless? doesn't work with a normal air impact gun? and by the way... what is the official torque value for that nut? I remember I put a piece of metal from the teeths of the left sprocket to the other one on the right (the clutch), just the appropriate meassure to work on one sproket against the other, and deep enough to hold the three lines of teeths. It worked beautifully.
Miguel.
Click to expand...

You were lucky Miguel, the teeth on those clutch sprockets get broken like that.
Official torque figures are 10 kg/m.

Paul
 
Paul Marx said:
You were lucky Miguel, the teeth on those clutch sprockets get broken like that.
Official torque figures are 10 kg/m.

Paul
Click to expand...

Well at least I could blame somebody else... :LOL: :LOL: So what is then the best way to tight with the right torque without using the locking tool?

Regards,
Miguel

IMG_5617.jpg
 
The new version of the Green Book have eliminated that recommendation because of the number of breakages.

Either use the factory tool or a home made equivalent if torquing that nut is important to you, otherwise, use a rattle gun, electric or air powered.
Only one torque: bloody tight + Loctite.

Paul
 
Paul Marx said:
The new version of the Green Book have eliminated that recommendation because of the number of breakages.

Either use the factory tool or a home made equivalent if torquing that nut is important to you, otherwise, use a rattle gun, electric or air powered.
Only one torque: bloody tight + Loctite.

Paul
Click to expand...

Roger that! :LOL:
Miguel
 
Or just buy a crank locking tool: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-Steel-Adjustable-Male-Chastity-Belt-Restraint-Device-Lock-Ring-Cage-UK/313148577330?hash=item48e91c1632:g:69sAAOSwlNxfDyWq
 
The method using a homemade piece of steel could very well damage the teeth on the clutch drum or crank sprocket.
I have used a piece of copper bar on multiple occasions and haven't even scratched a tooth.

Gerald

 
Neither of my SF2s have any holes in the primary sprocket for such a tool. Anything at all put between the sprockets risks breaking clutch sprocket teeth. Any good rattle gun, air or battery, will do it. Just make sure it is fucking tight. One that I did up with my rattle gun took a long time to remove with the owners one which was not as strong, we thought it might not come but it did in the end.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top