SF1 Chain Adjustment

N

NeilD

Junior member
Location
on the road to Skegvegas, Lincs
cant believe I'm asking how to adjust a chain but here goes! 

unless I'm being incredibly stupid, I cant seem to slacken off the chain ie move the wheel forward..

I was 'playing' yesterday trying to see why the chain is touching the frame.. the chain is now too tight so was trying to slacken it off. The book says 'slacken off one side of the spindle and undo/remove the brake torque arm'.. the lefthand side moves, but the righthand side doesnt? does the 'big nut' behind the spindle nut need loosening?
just to add to the fun the already bent adjuster screw on the RHS has now snapped..  >:(

are the adjuster screws anything special, or is this likely to be my first of many purchases from messrs Slater Bros? 

this is a new record for me, breaking a bike before I've ridden the fekkin thing..

 
When you have figured out yer nuts you need about  1" of play with you sat on the bike. If
you carry pillions make it a bit more.

 
Yes, slacken the big nut on the right hand side holding the sprocket carrier. That nut only need be done up finger tight afterwards to take up any slack, the spindle nuts doing the actual positioning and holding. That'll make it easier for next time around.
You don't really need to touch the brake torque arm nut.
When you've finished, check brake operation.

Ciao
Paul
 
and yes the adjuster is little unusual as its 7mm threaded, you can get stainless ones almost anywhere, but beware, some are "overfinished" and end up under size.
CLEM
 
The large nut (36mm) for the cush-drive/sprocket carrier does in fact take the chain tension as it secures the sprocket carrier to the swingarm. The 24mm axle nuts hold the wheel in. To remove the wheel you remove the axle, leaving the sprocket and cush-drive in place. To adjust the chain both the axle and cush-drive must be loosened, the RHS chain adjuster is clamped by it, and it should not be left slack afterwards. The brake torque arm has a split-pin so that it can be left mildly tight and allow movement of the wheel without disturbing each time the chain is adjusted.
Any long 6X1mm screw (mine are not 7mm) can be used in place of your broken adjuster screw.
As there are no reference marks for wheel alignment you need to either stringline it or do the same thing by sight (Keith uses 2 straight edges, clamped either side of the back wheel). Do as Andy suggests and check the slack when sitting heavily on it, and buy your next chain from Andy.
 
yes I do keith
threads too loose when inserted into the teardrops, and locknuts too loose on the adjuster as well, and even the 11mm hexagon "cleaned up" to the extent that the flats are about one third (in the middle) of what there should be, you even get 40 grams of swarf in the plastic packets.Nicely domed though so not all bad.
CLEM
 
Just to avoid confusion - the wire wheel bikes generally have a 6mm chain adjuster and the cast wheel 7mm - not sure about 750SFC though. Perhaps an "Overfinished" 7mm would fit a 6mm?? :o :o - Regards - Phil
 
easy realy marnix as the SF3 has got the Jota swingarm fitted and is the same part number for the whole caboodle
but I have to confess I thought we were talking about triples
CLEM
 
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