SF1 hard to pass neutral

oehlin

oehlin

Junior member
Location
Sweden
Have problems switching from 1st pass neutral to 2nd .
Then 2nd to 3rd to 4th to 5th to 4th to 3rd to 2nd goes well.
Then again problem to pass neutral to 1st gear.
Could it be the neutral switch that needs to be adjusted and if so how
 
oehlin said:
Have problems switching from 1st pass neutral to 2nd .
Then 2nd to 3rd to 4th to 5th to 4th to 3rd to 2nd goes well.
Then again problem to pass neutral to 1st gear.
Could it be the neutral switch that needs to be adjusted and if so how
Click to expand...
It could be the neutral switch needing thicker shims.
It could be clutch drag.

Paul
 
With the rear wheel free in the air, in gear, and the rear wheel doesn't spin with the engine running, there is no clutch drag. Unless the rear wheel won't turn anyway. Your symptoms are very much like neutral switch. If you have rearset footrests the pivots may need grease.
 
Maybe the outer cover where the gear lever is needs a little adjustment? Loosen it a little and lever it forward whilst tightening the bolts back up. This sometimes works.
 
to test the switch theory, take it out, plug the hole with a short bolt (no longer than the female thread in the crankcase bottom).
and ride.
If all is good you know where to affect the repair.
CLEM
ps you will lose the engine oil, but a flush is as good as straight aces.
 
CLEMTOG said:
to test the switch theory, take it out, plug the hole with a short bolt (no longer than the female thread in the crankcase bottom).
and ride.
If all is good you know where to affect the repair.
CLEM
ps you will lose the engine oil, but a flush is as good as straight aces.
Click to expand...
Or you can turn off fuel and carefully lie the bike on its side on some tyres or whatever.
 
I had the same problem, I took out the neutral switch and cleaned it by flushing it with light oil. This resolved the sticking in neutral problem. I also found that the switch only works with one thin washer
 
did you ride the bike without the neutral switch? and the threaded hole plugged off with a SHORTENED bolt that is no longer than the thread in the casting? if the answer to that is yes, then I wuld supect that either
1) you have lost or partially lost a steel pin from the selector rotator (where the hooks engage, easy to look at exsternally) or
2) inside the gearbox, (sorry) something is not right with the first and secnd gear selector fork or sliding drive disc/gears/shaft.

have you had a broken rear chain in the past, which may have tangled the gearbox and the crankcases, if this happened while you were in first or second gear?......................Ron style downhill wheelies perhaps?

CLEM
 
oehlin said:
No problem pulling the clutch and spinning the wheel when a gear engage .
Click to expand...
I still think your clutch might be sticking.
When you say you have problems going from 1st to 2nd, what does that mean?
You cannot engage 2nd in which case, likely culprit is selection with clutch second, or going from 1st to 2nd is hard on the lever in which case clutch may well be the cause.
A lightly sticking clutch will not affect gear selection and running with the bike on the stand and the wheel in the air, only under load.

Paul
 
OK Paul.
I have to push hard on the gearlevel to engage no1 and then pull hard to engage no 2. After that the rest of the gears just slips in
I will tighten up the clutch and take her out for some miles and see if she is getting better.
 
oehlin said:
OK Paul.
I have to push hard on the gearlevel to engage no1 and then pull hard to engage no 2. After that the rest of the gears just slips in
I will tighten up the clutch and take her out for some miles and see if she is getting better.
Click to expand...
Try it. Laverda gearshifts are rarely like a hot knife in butter unless particularly well set up.
When I go touring, I loose some skin on top of my right big toe after 3 days, then the skin thickens.

Paul
 
Unless I wear my bike boots my toes hurt as well, especially on upshifts. I replaced the knurled toe piece on the gear lever with a smooth one as it was cutting holes through the reinforced toe section on the boot. Runners hurt my toes heaps on the bike.
 
Is the gear selection only a problem when riding? Or is it hard also with the motor stopped and rocking the rear wheel (on centre stand) as you select each gear? You have ensured that the selector cover is tightened with some play in the meshing of the selector gears?
 
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