You REALLY need to get a multimeter - they're dirt cheap and you just need something that can detect 12V. Even just a 12V 'pen' light circuit tester. I personally love the function on my multimeter that has a buzzer function that operates when a complete circuit is detected (eg, when checking which switch position connects what-to-what, be it ignition switch or handlebar switch.
I converted my SF1 to SF2 switchgear and ignition switch. The difference is that the headlight off/park/on with the SF2 is in the left ND switchblock. The main diff is that the strip connector of the SF1 is under the RH side of the tank and way back under the rear of the tank on the SF2.
One huge drama I had back then was that with the new switchgear every time I hit the horn button a fuse would blow - I was an electrickery ignoramus back then and it turned out that the SF2 switch block has an earth wire and the horn button earths an active, whereas the Lucas switch was wired differently (can't remember exactly, but it's a completely different setup).
High beam idiot light is simply a feed from the high beam circuit itself and earths through the gauge (as Tippie pointed out). You probably need to have the tacho cable connected, as this is often the only earth connection to the gauges.
Also as Tippie mentioned, the flasher idiot light has the left indicator feed going to one side and the right indicator feed going rto the other (NOT feed one side, earth the other). It works by grounding the circuit via the non operating indicator circuit - it negates the need for two separate R/L wires. If using LED idiot bulbs, it won't work, as they rely on uni-directional circuitry.
If I were you, I'd pull every wire out and start from scratch. Otherwise you'e simply chasing your tail and messing your head around!
