SFC 1000: starter doesn't

there is bosch startermotor brush on ebay for ?7.50  ;). and they are top quality all you need is a big soldering iron and a red hot old file as a heatsink to help you solder :D
good luck andy
 
On the bench the rotor sometimes spins but more often doesn't. I guess it likely is bushes then . . . .

One of the many things I've never done is stripped a starter motor so thanks for the advice Andy but first I need to open the thing up :). Any gotchas, things that break or explode out of their housing when applying screwdrivers/spanners? Where should I start to open it up? Please be gentle :).
 
just take the end cap off gently no need to force anything, the brush's are soldered in place so just heat the solder and pull the old one off. You will be left with a hole which is where you pock the new brush rope through, clean the rotor with some spirit check and clean.  The bar with which the brush are soldered to will take all the heat from your soldering iron so you will not be able to melt your solder. that's what the old file is for get it red hot and put it on the back of the bar while you solder the front.

take care not to set it on fire , or take it to a auto electrician
good luck Andy
 
Simon,

It sounds reading the posts that you may well have a starter motor issue however,

Firstly...I would definitely give the battery a check... ;)

Go and buy yourself a multi-meter. It doesn't have to be an expensive one. You may already have one .

Fully charge your battery.

Set the multimeter to the 20V scale.

Read the voltage across the battery terminals

Now dump the excess charge voltage by switching on and putting the lights on for say 20 seconds.  Read the voltage again. Should be over 12.5 volts

Now , with the tester probes held across the battery terminals press the starter button and see if the voltage collapses to a low figure.

I just dumped a battery ( scrap man nicked it off the drive ).  It performed perfectly until I pressed the starter and then the voltafe dropped to about 5 Volts

Here's some sensible looking data for Lead acid batteries:-


State of charge
of battery


(6x cell) 12V
Just charged*   12.80v
100%        12.60v
75%        12.35v
50%            12.06v
25%        11.7v
Fully discharged 10.5v

good luck

joe
 
jotajoe said:
It sounds reading the posts that you may well have a starter motor issue however,
Click to expand...

Hi Joe,

Thanks for these numbers; I've pulled the starter and checked it and it is definitely shafted, however before removing it I have tested the battery which shows fully charged about 14.3V(maybe my multimeter is a bit off!), with the lights etc. on it drops a smidge to 14V. On testing with the starter button the voltage doesn't drop, but that's most likely because there is no current drain to the faulty starter :). I'll test the battery properly while getting the starter repaired/repairing the starter, including checking the specific gravity of the acid and leave it on the CTEK for a few days as well.

After that I should have a great-starting bike!

Cheers

Simon.
 
Ok Simon,

Your voltmeter may be over reading a bit.

Put your voltmeter between the +ve pole on the motor and earth. Switch on at the key and press the starter button. When the solenoid clicks and closes the main contacts then you should have a nice healthy voltage reading there even if the brushes/cummutator are screwed.

atb

joe
 
moalboal said:
After that I should have a great-starting bike!

Cheers

Simon.
Click to expand...

Don't want to worry you, but how old the bike (Miles) and has the starter-clutch been renewed, too? Have seen a lot bikes that had a starter motor issue and after curing it, the starter clutch gave up... Maybe a good time to pull it and have a check/service for it. Don't forget to lock-tide the screws on it!!
 
Laverdalothar said:
how old the bike (Miles) and has the starter-clutch been renewed, too? Have seen a lot bikes that had a starter motor issue and after curing it, the starter clutch gave up...
Click to expand...

Yes, Tom warned me to check that :). Mines at 65,000km so we'll see what we see when we see it!

Cheers.
 
New brushes from Tom; bit of soldering, a lot of cleaning, reassemble starter, test. Nothing; no sparks, no noise, no heat in the starter. Bugger.

Strip again . . . hmmmm, all looks good. Poke around, carefully reassemble, test: whirr :).

So the starter is working well with the new brushes but after one problem and another, the bike has been standing for nearly four months. It was on reserve in July and by November the fuel has evaporated a little too much so we'll have to wait until we can make a trip to the fuel station before we can actually get it running again. Never mind, tomorrow is another day!
 
with Husky, solenoid connections tight,had that with mine a fews years back.Otherwise had it when my alternator failed.
 
Hope you soldered it with the right material, else it will just drop the connection once you press the button to long...

crosse my fingers!  ;)
 
Well my friend came over and did the soldering for me since he has far more experience than I :). I know he used best-quality British Telecom solder and the joints looked good so I'll join you in crossing fingers! I went for a short run to get all the fluids circulating again yesterday; it started easily a couple of times and was pulling well on my 20km local "test circuit". Of course just *after* I'd put 17l of fuel in I saw that one of the fuel taps is leaking . . . .

One job crossed off and another job added to the list.

Thanks for the advice one and all!
 
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