SFC1000 - 530 chain making contact with engine case

What about riveting reading, I always used split links but apparently there extinct because of safety and such. I did a Google on riveting and found a video where the bloke kept freaking out about making it too tight, he measured it constantly with a vernia while doing the riveting. I borrowed a gadget but ended up just doing it with a centre punch to start and a ball pein hammer. Pro tips would be great for next time. Both are bloody expensive for once every couple of years for me.
 
Vince said:
Me too, what's worse? A split link or a badly riveted link.
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If you follow that reasoning, it's better to stay at home.
A rivetted chain is better than a split link though I also split links on some machines. They need looking at from time to time whereas a rivetted O ring chain, you fit and forget.
I once had the side plate on a split link break.
Paul
 
Had similar concerns when fitting a DID 530 O-Ring chain on my 3CL, worked out fine in the end. Fitted a different colour rivet link for ease of identification. Have a Rotherwald tool (from LOUIS) that works a treat.
 

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sfcpiet said:
One of the best chain tools I've come across is the "Whale". Sturdy and indestructable, mainly because each size caters for a dedicated chain pitch. Seperates chains in seconds, riveting doesn't take much longer.
cea.de

Whale chain tool chain riveting tool professional - for solid rivets

CEA Shop Chain tool professional - from Wahle, for all RK and DID chains with the pitch 520, 525, 530 and 532. The basic tool is only designed for full rive
cea.de cea.de

Rather expensive, but very effective. Just need a decent-sized hammer to work it.

piet
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I have had one of these for many years, but this one is so much better, easier to use and more accurate for rivetting.

DID SL500.jpg
 
We had a go at splitting Pf1’s Monsters riveted chain in the parking area of a hotel near The Black Forrest, with limited tools.

After my cheapo chain breaker broke in two, the better option was to leave it alone and have a few beers.
 
I forked out for the genuine DID - top piece of kit. I also found that the DID VX 520 o-ring chain I bought came only with a split link! Very surprised. Another I;d bought came with both split and rivet.

But the outer plate on the split one is so tight it requires the tool to fit and remove anyway - so tight the split piece is 'almost' necessary. I'd like to rivet but being able to remove the chain when removing the engine is a big bonus ... otherwise it's off with the selector covers and probably the sprocket.
 
DID supplies either a clip or rivet link for chains up to #520. Everything larger comes either endless or with a rivet link.

They obviously don't trust the capabilities of some backyard bodgers mechanics.

piet
 
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I have been using Tsubaki Chain for a while, they have an Office pretty close to me so I order a top-shelf 530 chain and Split Link. They don't have it in stock so it comes from another state, It arrives at my house but with no slip link, rivet type was supplied though. I ring and complain so the bloke says he will send me a Split Link for free. A week later a pretty big parcel arrives with exactly the same bits. Another complete 530 chain and riveted link for free. I rang the bloke again to ask what the hell I should do, he said no split link was available and it wasn't worth the trouble to take that free $240 chain back. I say ok.

​

 
sfcpiet said:
DID supplies either a clip or rivet link for chains up to #520. Everything larger comes either endless or with a rivet link.
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At least the DID 530 NZ (reinforced), -which most of my mates use- is supplied with rivet or clip link
I've used DID 520 x-ring chains (currently VX3) with a clip link since decades.

Ernesto
 
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It is many years since I had a clip link that the side plate just slipped on, they need lots of pressure to get into place, Scrutineers at races here require it to be safety wired and a dab of silicone. I have neve had a rear chain fail at the clip link, never even seen one, despite all the horror stories. I prefer clips for the same reason as Quentin. Same on my bicycles, I use a quick link, never the supplied rivet link, as I rotate two chains, when one gets too filthy I just put on the other thoroughly cleaned one and have plenty of time to prepare the spare.
 
Tippie said:
It is many years since I had a clip link that the side plate just slipped on, they need lots of pressure to get into place, Scrutineers at races here require it to be safety wired and a dab of silicone. I have neve had a rear chain fail at the clip link, never even seen one, despite all the horror stories. I prefer clips for the same reason as Quentin. Same on my bicycles, I use a quick link, never the supplied rivet link, as I rotate two chains, when one gets too filthy I just put on the other thoroughly cleaned one and have plenty of time to prepare the spare.
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I have seen chain clips crack when very first fitted, budget chain,if not noticed they would have come off. Never had one fail and fitted hundreds. Had a new ( under 1000 Mile ) Kawasaki ZXR750 snap a side plate and mangle casing and Kawasaki would not warrant it - very odd and caused big problems. I wonder how many chain clips have been fitted backwards prior to failing?🤔
 
you are of course right Piet regarding the coding and dimenasions, I am just old and was trusting my memory, I have become very familiar with the modern terminolodgy of 520/530/630 and havent needed that information for decaedes, so I bow (yet again) to your accuracy.

Years ago when split spring links fractured a lot, it was due to the loose sideplate being a very loose fit on the pins,(**) this then stressed to plate on the other side with the fixed pins, it makes massive sense to me to have that sideplate a very tight (needed some mechanical help) for to the pins, the spring link is the not realy doing much, and not much is what works.

I have used both, I rivet seometimes and use clips other times, I have boxes of tools for splitting and riveting collected over the last 60 or so years, never thrown any out, They came in very usefull recently when shortening a Norton Commando primary chain to use on TOG, more than one tool was used to break and re-rivet the chain, very satisfying to do amd saving a lot of money, plus getting a chain of known good quality, both Regina dn Reynolds are available.

CLEM
 
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