SFC1000 Hydraulic Clutch - engaging early in lever release

Laser weld repair is easy-peasy, no distortion to be expected.  Reckon if the sealing taper is still OK, all that would be required is to run a tap down the repaired bore.

No great torque required to seal the taper reliably just a gentle nip.  As Clem stated, must have been the Hamfist King.  >:(

piet
 
Not always ham fisted, good corrosion point there, and lack of fluid changes causes the nipple to seize. I always use penetrating oil and a quick prayer, have seen plenty broken ones over the years. My old Rgs suffered the same fate. I always change my 120 Jota clutch fluid annually just to keep the corrosion at bay. Chris Pritt?s Rgs the same, he welded it up, now comes out at 90 degrees so water doesn?t catch there any more 
 
I suspect the sealing seat in the cover or the conical tip of the bleed nipple itself might have been damaged at some stage.  It all looks like it was someone's bodge to try to seal a leaky bleed nipple. Why else would anyone put Teflon tape there (not that it would achieve much - the thread doesn't do the sealing) and why tighten it down so hard as to break the casting?

So once you've fixed the crack, check the condition of the conical tip on the bleed nipple (or get a new nipple) and tidy up the seat in the bottom of the hole where it seals.

All the little hammer dents are a mystery. Looks like someone tried to repair the crack by peening it  ???

Is there a laser welder in Sydney?
 
From all reports no, seems Piet and NASA have the market covered.
Since we have entered the latest space race some of the high tech companies have stopped doing small stuff. A case in point is that big anodising mob in Melbourne that used to advertise in the bike mags. No more bikes, only rocket stuff now.
 
martymoose said:
Not always ham fisted, good corrosion point there, and lack of fluid changes causes the nipple to seize. I always use penetrating oil and a quick prayer, have seen plenty broken ones over the years. My old Rgs suffered the same fate. I always change my 120 Jota clutch fluid annually just to keep the corrosion at bay. Chris Pritt?s Rgs the same, he welded it up, now comes out at 90 degrees so water doesn?t catch there any more
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So does copper grease or some other lubricant help reduce the likelihood of a seized nipple  ???
 
Normally no need for that. If the niple does not seal itself against the bottom of the bore it sits in, something is massively wrong. It is the same system used on calipers. And you would not even spent one tenth of a second on using anything on the caliper bleading nipple, do you?  ;)
 
I use copper slip on the threads of the nipples, to prevent galvanic action and eventual seizing of the thread.
CLEM
 
An insulating (!) grease  would be necessary if the nipples would be made out of a higher class metall like stainless steel f.e. (like if you use stainless screws to fasten the engine covers). I think the nipples are either zink coated or chromed, which would - as far as I am aware - be the same class of metall. On same class metalls, I think there is no galvanic action (hence the cink coated original screws).
 
In practice they can corrode, jam and snap off.
DAMHIK
Copper grease is a wise precaution.
 
Laverdalothar said:
Nick, if you need to repair the master, here is a "how-to" I wrote some moons ago:

http://laverdaforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11278/Repair_Guide_Clutch_and_Brake_Master.pdf

Hope you'll find it handy.

cheers

Lothar
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Most helpful Lothar - Many thanks.
 
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