SFC1000 tank

A

andre

Senior member
as part of my routine 20 year maintenance cycle, I've got the SFC1000 tank off the bike for clean/inspection. Fuel taps removed, and lots of crud (technical terms used here) around the filters.

I'm thinking the tank could do with a bit of a 'flushing' to try to remove as much crap as possible. Wondered about washing out using garden hose, but concerned at any residual water triggering rust on those front seams. Any advice? Petrol of course might be the way.

I also wondered about an internal sealing kit for the tank while I'm at it to future proof against rust in those front seams but dont want to go there if not strictly necessary.

Regards again
Andre
 
I'd bung up the outlets and use molasses and water, 1 litre molasses: 20 litres water, leave it in there for two weeks. There will be no rust left, if there is any, and no fear of water residual in the seams, flush it out with methylated spirits. (molasses sourced from a produce store, not the supermarket type)
 
Sounds a bit risky to me.......the water police would have you banged up in a flash for using a hose around here  ::) 

Good old England - well know for it's rain and we now officially have a drought.......and summer doesn't even start for almost a month  :P

On a more serious note - i don't think washing it out with water would help much - need something to give it a blast.
 
The easiest and safest way to dry the inside of a petrol tank after you have washed the inside either with water or any other type of solvent is to.......In a well ventilated area start up a motorvehicle let it get warmed up the put a hose pipe up the cars exhaust pipe and the other end into the gas tank give the car some revs and let it run for a few minuets till the gas tank is nice and warm. Shut of the engine remove the hose and let the tank cool naturally the tank will be dry inside and all the volatile odors will be gone. Hope this helps, Dave
 
Kiwi Laverda said:
Err how many moles bums are ther to a litre?
Click to expand...

I wasn't sure what you were asking, so I googled "moles bums" this is what I got.
Not sure how many of these you can get into a litre?
 

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Or

Fill the tank up with brown vinegar. It will eat the rust away in a couple of days just the same as molasses. It turns any rust into a sort of mud which will than need flushing out etc. I use it all the time.
 
No the other end of one of these
mole_large.jpg

"There was a family of three moles. They lived outside a home. The family in the house was making breakfast. The father mole stuck his head outside of the hole and said I smell bacon and eggs. The mother stuck her head out the hole and said I smell sauage and french toast. The baby mole not able to get his head through said I smell molasses"
 
When it comes time to clean my SF tank I will dump about a cup a various sized Nuts a Washers into it a roll it around for a few hours. Flush it out with gas and let dry then spray the inside with Red RustCheck until I'm ready to use it.

I've seen real messes with anyone who has used these so called Tank Liners; however, I would expect if you rolled the Tank around with about a 1/3 Cup of RM Zinc Chromate BASF Green Epoxy Under Coat would do a descent job as a Tank Liner once you have clean it out using the Nut & Washer method and flushed it with either Lacquer Thinner or Acetone.

That Mole Bum looks like my X`s but she didn`t have quit a much hair as Mother Mole ;o)
 
The SFC 1000 and RGS tanks have areas at the lower front that are known rust traps. Also difficult for nuts and washers to get into that area.

I would use a mild acid etch like my old favourite, De-Ox C. Or go to town and buy 1kg of Citric Acid from your local Citric Acid shop, same thing.
Dilute it 5:1 with hot water, leave 24 hours, rinse then dry with a hot air gun or hair dryer. Rust gone. Not invasive.
They even do a specific fuel tank cleanser kit.

http://www.bilthamber.com//search-products.php?cname=Corrosion Removal
 
Come to think about it I used a solution of Muriatic Acid about 3 years ago (available at local hardware for preparing Cement Surfaces) - Worked Good.
 
Dont understand how a post about petrol tank ended up with a photograph of a bottom. Must be some facet of English thinking...

To clarify on my original post - the crude around the fuel tap filters was more paint related. That stupid @#!ing ethanol fuel should be avoided like the plague. Seems to dissolve paint. i just wondered about best way to flush out any remaining paint detritus. I was also a little concerned about those front seams, but I feel if they aint broke I wont fix them.
 
Be careful with muriatic (hydrochloric) acid. It's a strong acid so it will need to be diluted if you want to use it for rust removal. In concentrated form it'll remove the rust AND the tank! It's also dangerous to handle and will cause nasty chemical burns to skin. Inhaling the fumes can seriously mess up your mucous membranes.

Any weakish acid would be preferable for rust removal - acetic, citric, phosphoric, oxalic ...

I've found citric acid to be quite effective and it's dirt cheap if you buy it in 1kg bags.

Cheers,
Cam
 
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