Sorted....almost

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bob

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Here's a quick shot of the pre season preparation which is now coming along nicely. Unfortunately the Sachse ignition threw its hand in and practice had to be cancelled this week. This is the third time the Sachse kit has let me down, on previous occasions it has spoiled a race in Croatia and cost me a podium finish in Italy and so I've decided three strikes and it's out and I've binned it. There are aspects of the Sachse ignition which I like but unfortunately I don't think it's robust enough, at least not for endurance racing. The service from Volker has been excellent but I just can't afford any more equipment failures.

Fortunately help has been at hand from Phil, who built me one of his Todd Boyer units. Dead simple, very strong and with tried and tested components. Lots of classic racers use the Boyer kit and you rarely hear a bad word about them. The other main advantage of Phil's kit is that the back plate is moveable and therefore it's easy to make adjustments with the engine running, something which was impossible with the Sachse. The engine seems very happy on it  and we'll see how it performs on the track. Phil used to do pretty good with them so I don't anticipate any problems!



38mm Forcella Italia forks, Sports Motorcycles adjustable yokes and floating brakes, FO9 calipers and a Lockheed master cylinder
forks003-2.jpg



Bombproof.
Toddboyerignition-1.jpg
 
G'day Bob

You deserve to do well after all the development and preparation you've put into the bike. I hope it all comes together on your next track outing.

Those F09 calipers should give you a lot more braking power than the F08s. Actually, 1.6 times as much if you're using the same master cylinder diameter. Bloody good idea on a period racer where the 4-pot calipers are not allowed, and probably as good as a set of 4-pots. Interesting that they allow floating disk rotors. Were they an option back in the 70's?

As for the bombproof ignition, I think I'd get rid of those crappy crimp-on bullet connectors if it were my bike.

Cheers,
Cam
 
Bob
You will have to let us know how you get on with the Boyer system.I fitted one to my 1978 GS750 Suzuki and have had a very annoying problem with it.Ill start at the beginning,the bike ran fine for over five years with the old Newtronics(priranah)system,then the black box went down on cyls 1 and4.could not get a replacement so i went for Boyer's top of the range Micro digital system.Clear instructions,fitted new wiring,the new micro coils that came with it,box and trigger plate.DTI the pistons and also used a positive stop tdc gauge,to make sure of tdc mark.Pressed the starter,fired up instantly and ticked over on a gradually reducing choke.Checked the max digital advance,spot on.It will start everytime on the button,tick over all day long,pulls like a train no misfires,top speed fine,acceleration fine.BUT when you just open the throttle a few degrees to pull away as normal as it used too it bulks down or dies just for a split second and you can stall it,or over rev it and pull away like on a Gold Star.Its just like the Ignition has been turned off for a micro second.Has anyone else has this problem? I know not on a Suzuki.The good thing is that I'm using the RGS much more,but that's not the point.
Neale
 
I bought a Boyer from Todd when the world was in black and white...
I had it om my Mirage with J&E pistons and 4c cams. It was so much better than the BTZ boxes.
The only down side was that you needed a good battery for the bike to start. The Boyer/Todd need a bit more revs to give a spark.

The bulk problem might be solved with more fuel.
 
Hi
I dont think its fuel,as it never did it before and only sat a week,nothing else has been changed,has sat several weeks without starting before with no probs.Its got mikunis fitted the slide type not cv's.Its the latest digital system ignition.Its just like the spark dies for a milli second.
Neale
 
Neale,
I had  Todd/Boyers black boxes on my spaceframe which was fitted with one of Phil's engines. I eventually swapped the ignition back to standard in the interests of making it look original[the ignition components are on full show in the spaceframe]. When it ran on Phil's kit it never displayed any signs of stuttering or misbehaving, in fact it ran like a clock.
I suppose all these systems are open to potential faults [as is the standard ignition of course] and they do run in a very harsh environment. Many of the modern electronic ignition systems are full of otiose features which simply present more opportunities for failure. The Todd Boyer system scores because it's simple, reliable and doesn't cost very much.

Cam,
Floaters are allowed in the new series I've signed up to. I'm running the FO9s with a Lockheed adjustable ratio cylinder which allows me to dial in the type of feel I want ranging from lots of feel/long lever travel or minimum lever travel / slightly more wooden response. I've heard good things about the FO9s and came to the same conclusion as you have.

I prefer the crimped connectors, much more reliable [in my opinion] than a soldered joint . On a vibey bike like the 600 I think soldered joints would have a hard time. The PCB is soldered of course but there ain't much choice about that.
 
I always used ordinary terminal blocks - with the ends of the wires soldered - never had a problem. This is the set up on my 750SF - Regards - Phil
 

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G'day Bob

It wasn't cripmed connectors in general I was commenting on (although I do prefer to crimp and solder) but those connectors in particular - big clunky hard plastic sheathed type. There are much more elegant ones available.

Cheers,
Cam
 
Morning Cam, I've got an excellent solution to the compromised aesthetics. It's called an outer cover! When its fitted you can hardly notice the chunky connectors... :D :D :D
 
Hey Bob

I echo Cam's concern over the connectors if they are the ( Halfords type ) barrel type they are prone to fail with vibration over time, first intermitantly followed by complete failure.

If however they are the type with two seperate U formed legs for insulation and conductor crimps they are far superior especially when used with a small amount of solder. The crimps also require the correct tooling. Better still is to also use heatshrink tube to insulate the terminals adding addition mechanical strength to the system if overlapped to the wire.

Waiting for Jotally to jump in ...........  ;)

Your bike looks superb ........... Well done and may the gods of speed be kind to you.

                                  Cheers
                                          Matt
 
If your soldered connectors dont crack off, then you're either riding like a pussy or riding a honda . Obviously some are more vulnerable than others dependant on location but its not a sure fire solution. I keep soldering my connectors and they keep breaking, so figured if I wrote it down, I can teach myself...

Kind regards
Rob
 
You must be doing something wrong Rob. Maybe you're using the wrong type of connector or too much solder. Is the solder soaking half an inch up the wire and melting the insulation? It just needs a quick dab of solder.

The best type of connector is the type Matt describes a couple of posts back with the two-stage crimp (sometimes known as Japanese style bullet connectors). A good guide when soldering is that if you're melting the plastic insulation on the wire, then you're using too much heat and/or solder. You need the plastic insulation intact because the second part of the 2-stage crimp grips the plastic insulation sheath and stops the wire from flexing at the joint. I don't recall ever having a soldered joint fail. I'm not saying it's never happened, just that I can't remember an example.

Just reading the latest (March) Classic Bike article by Rupert Paul on building wiring harnesses and he recommends soldering of crimp-on terminals. There's a good photo of how it should look before the second crimp is done. I always allow it to cool before doing the second crimp so the insulation isn't too soft and squishy and the crimp gets a good firm grip. 

BTW, Bob. Is that your Chott on page 71 of the March issue of Classic Bike?

Cheers,
Cam
 
Don' be lissenin' to these folk Bob.. jus' you go racin' now, and I'm shoore to be shoore that the Laverda Gods will care fo' yo'.. you've earned it after last year, so enjoy.
All the best for a great campaign in 2012.

8)
 
.BUT when you just open the throttle a few degrees to pull away as normal as it used too it bulks down or dies just for a split second and you can stall it,or over rev it and pull away like on a Gold Star.
Neale
[/quote]

Might be worth trying plug gaps of 35 or even 40 thou - can't explain why but someone who knows much more than me recommends this to lose a hesitation on first opening the throttle with Boyer or Rita .Not a great effort to try and nothing to lose?
 
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