Spark Plug Colour

Unleaded fuel, so black and sooty.
Can't really read plugs any more these days.
 
Agreed, and plug chop virtually useless these days.  Unless you're getting lots of fouling then bung 'em back in and ride.
 
when you bung them back in apply some anti seize to the threads on the spark plugs
those plugs are way too dry to wind into a head

 
Grant said:
Unleaded fuel, so black and sooty.
Can't really read plugs any more these days.
Click to expand...

It is way trickier than it used to be but there is still a story to be read there.

The annealing line will still tell you if the heat range or ignition timing is out.

You still need colour, unfortunately it is now usually just a shade of black but there needs to be full colour on the first thread or 3.

Spots on the porcelain and being clean still tell you it is way too lean, way too hot and the piston is slowly melting into tiny particles.

The fact that the picture doesn?t include the moat, fuel ring and earth strap profile means that you don?t quite understand where to look. Google it as there are some good pictorial guides to be found.

If the porcelain changes colour as it goes deeper means there is different AFR through the throttle opening range. Outer indicates lower openings, deeper is wider.

Another test is the plug?s core resistance between the cap connector ad the central electrode. A new non resistor plug should be an ohm or two, a resistor roughly 5k ohms. If it starts to rise then the rubbish bin is your friend.

In Australia I?ve had issues with NGK. These were so consistent that I tried to contact the company but they never replied. I?ve used NGK in other parts of the world without a hiccup but the box colour is different. Draw your own conclusions.

I find Nippon Densos last longer and have  much better consistency with regards resistance when new. They are also cheaper. Available from Toyota Dealer parts counters. Toyota may not use that size so just ring and order. They will get them in for you. At Super Crap Auto a NGK plug is about $4.75, at Toyota the equivalent ND is $3.10.

Just my experience.

Rod
 
There are a lot of fake NGKs out there just google fake NGKS to try and tell difference, had several duff ones lately,interesting re NDs Rod,wonder if they are over here.
 
On standard ignition, my 180 used to eat Densos.  Had much better reliability with NGKs.  YMMV, of course...
 
markQLD said:
me surfing about got to;

Champion > NGK > Denso
N3C > B8ES > W24ES-U
N2C > B9ES > W27ES-U

,,  but i am from da canefields,  i no nothing.    8)
Click to expand...

I searched on ebay for the BP8ES. The P is for protruding electrode. I expect the P means the same in the ND ones.

I might give ND a go, I have had a few NGK ones fail early in their life. They still looked new. Two in the last eighteen months, or so.
 
If you buy from reputable suppliers (like Repco in Australia), you'll probably avoid the nasty NGK copies. I've always bought from specialist Aoto shops and never had a problem with NGK. I wouldn't recommend buying cheap from some Asian supplier on eBay.
 
If your triple is running rich, you stand the chance of stuffing a plug pretty damned quick. NGKs seem to be particularly sensitive to this.
 
Just checked the prices of the ND W24ES-U on ebay.

F**K I bought a box of 10 on ebay two years ago for the same price they fetch individually now !

And I only paid local postage.

Shame I didn't buy the other 9 boxes the guy offered me cheap. However, I got then for my Matchless G80CS which only uses one at a time !

Now ... where is the backup of my old email files ?

Cheers,

Rob
 
Basketcase said:
Just checked the prices of the ND W24ES-U on ebay.

F**K I bought a box of 10 on ebay two years ago for the same price they fetch individually now !

And I only paid local postage.

Shame I didn't buy the other 9 boxes the guy offered me cheap. However, I got then for my Matchless G80CS which only uses one at a time !

Now ... where is the backup of my old email files ?

Cheers,

Rob
Click to expand...

It might be cheaper long-term if you convert to diesel operation.

bazzee  ;)
 
Dellortoman said:
If you buy from reputable suppliers (like Repco in Australia), you'll probably avoid the nasty NGK copies. I've always bought from specialist Aoto shops and never had a problem with NGK. I wouldn't recommend buying cheap from some Asian supplier on eBay.
Click to expand...

I've only ever bought from auto parts stores before. Last time I was there, they did not have BP8ES, or B8ES.
I reckon I'll go back and ask them to order them in, the ones on ebay do not work out any cheaper, once you factor in the postage cost.

 
Grant said:
Unleaded fuel, so black and sooty.
Can't really read plugs any more these days.
Click to expand...

Bu99er! Didn't know that. Used to enjoy my plug chop evenings down the reservoir road. Must admit, I'd assumed all my bikes were running slightly rich, but acceptably so since they went OK.

May have to do some homework.

H.
 
Alpino said:
It is way trickier than it used to be but there is still a story to be read there.

The will still tell you if the heat range or ignition timing is out.

You still need colour, unfortunately it is now usually just a shade of black but there needs to be full colour on the first thread or 3.

Spots on the porcelain and being clean still tell you it is way too lean, way too hot and the piston is slowly melting into tiny particles.

The fact that the picture doesn?t include the moat, fuel ring and earth strap profile means that you don?t quite understand where to look. Google it as there are some good pictorial guides to be found.

If the porcelain changes colour as it goes deeper means there is different AFR through the throttle opening range. Outer indicates lower openings, deeper is wider.

Another test is the plug?s core resistance between the cap connector ad the central electrode. A new non resistor plug should be an ohm or two, a resistor roughly 5k ohms. If it starts to rise then the rubbish bin is your friend.

Rod
Click to expand...

This is very interesting, I've never really looked at plugs in so much detail. I'm going to pull them out again and take a pic of the earth straps.. I'm guessing that the moat is the 'well' between the porcelain and the threaded part of the plug.

I don't want my pistons melting into tiny particles, so this is worth looking into.

Gazz
 
Hi Gazz,
If I was you I'd stick it on a dyno for a fuel check,save a lot time and effort.
If you take some main jets with you (I'd aim for smaller than currently in),you'd be in a position to have a second run.
If you are lucky the dyno people might have a number of jets,ask when you book.

Andy
 
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