speaking of bleeding brakes

mauricejota7604

mauricejota7604

Hero member
Location
Victoria Australia
Just in the process of bleeding brakes on my 120 Jota and starting to develop a bull workers wrist from all the brake lever actions!where does most of the air get trapped in the front system, would it help to lay the bike over on the left side?
Any suggestions welcome.
M.
 
Hey M,

The foggy memory recalls the problem being in the splitter on the lower yolk...
Been known to be wrong tho.. Hth

Ciao,  Ross.
 
When I bleed mine I remove the master cylinder from the handlebars and the splitter from the bottom yoke.
The trick is to position the master cylinder and splitter at a lower level then the brake calipier and then bleed away,air will naturally work its way upwards.
Other then that there are a number of vacum devices one can buy.

happy bleeding,
Andy
 
Had the same problem. Try bleeding them backwards. Do a search for "brake bleeding". Lots of information there on how to do it.
Dennis
 
Maurice, make sure the tiny hole next to the bigger one is clear inside the master cylinder.
It does make a difference for bleeding.
Didn't have any prob's with my 120 at all - standard everything, no special precautions.
 
I have fitted 'speed bleeders' on all my bikes and cars now, makes life really easy! Crack the nipple 1/4 turn, pump a few times, all done. Even on the notoriously hard to bleed BMW with ABS, bleeding only takes a few minutes at most. Have them on the argy now, bleeding was a cinch. Well worth the $.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

no affiliation blah de blah....

 
Mark, you could do away with the splitter but then you lose the pressure switch for the front brake light.
 
Grant, Thank you, A jolly good point. :D :D :D :D Is there a way round this by using a more up to date mastercylinder etc. like a nice goldline brembo one from bevelheaven and use an inline switch?
 
Kinda think there may be something else going on here- I never had any problems bleeding my 180.

BUT... doing my BMW GS was a bitch when I fitted new HEL lines, just couldn't get it to firm up (ooer!). 

Anyway, I left it overnight with a bungee round the lever to see if I could move the bubbles that way and noticed there were a couple of drips of fluid on the floor the following day.  Turned out the seals had gone on the master cylinder, even though with the old lines it felt fine.  Threw the m/c away and fitted a new one, lines bled in a coupla minutes.

A Triumph Daytona 600 m/cyl has a 14mm bore which would make a big difference to the feel of your system if you are running P08s...
 
Mark, that should work too. You also get the advantage of a modern master cylinder and can choose the bore size that is best for feel too. Personally I don't like the look of 2 hoses snaking down from bars to calipers but by all accounts it gives a better feel to the brakes and that has to be better than how it looks.
 
drikko said:
I have fitted 'speed bleeders' on all my bikes and cars now, makes life really easy! Crack the nipple 1/4 turn, pump a few times, all done. Even on the notoriously hard to bleed BMW with ABS, bleeding only takes a few minutes at most. Have them on the argy now, bleeding was a cinch. Well worth the $.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

no affiliation blah de blah....
Click to expand...

Interesting. What is the correct ref for the P08 caliper?
 
The right one for the F08 caliper is the SB1010S which is what I have on all 3 calipers. Not sure about the P08, are they the same?
 
drikko said:
The right one for the F08 caliper is the SB1010S which is what I have on all 3 calipers. Not sure about the P08, are they the same?
Click to expand...

Sorry, my mistake, F08 is correct of course, many thanks for the information.
 
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