Special racing parts

Ground clearance limit Crystal Palace.JPG

Getting the generator cover down, on track, is relatively easy. Although I have done it on the road, on occasion.
Never managed to ground the primary chain adjuster. Maybe because I'm right side dominant?
 
According to Richard Slater , they would machine a chamfer on the edge of the generator rotor , in preparation for when the cover wore through ......

Not bothering with that domed primary adjuster nut on the other side helped a little bit as well, although the next thing to dig in would then be the forward engine mounting bracket ............ Increasing ride height by jacking up the suspension helped .
 
Light weight gearbox shaft. (Left the pin out), which nicely polishes and lightens the clutch basket....
 

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The Sock said:
View attachment 103760

Getting the generator cover down, on track, is relatively easy. Although I have done it on the road, on occasion.
Never managed to ground the primary chain adjuster. Maybe because I'm right side dominant?
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On The bosh engine, the right side sticks out 3cm or so more, hard not to touch ground on narrow roads. The ND engine has more ground clearance, takes a bit more angle to ground it. To be fair though, my weight takes away a lot of ground clearance already while standing upright... :oops::D
 
oui, un mandrin ne tourne jamais parfaitement rond, meme d'une grande marque .
il faut usiner des mors doux au diametre de la piece a reprendre , la, oui , on est a zéro .
 
piranha-bro2 said:
It doesn’t spin anywhere near crank speed and the factory finish on the clutch outer is so rough you’re unlikely to make it any worse!
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Yes, but if you are going to the trouble of making "special racing parts" then you do the best you can to make the parts better than the factory did.
A three jaw chuck is never a precision piece of tooling. At best you will have about .08 mm of run out on a new chuck. A chuck with a few miles of use on it will probably have twice that at .16 mm of run out. And a old chuck, who knows?

I would have made an mandrel to go in the center of the clutch and machine off that. Would it make a difference for this bike, maybe but when running machine tools (lathe or mill) you are trying to be better than what the factory could achieve. If the factory level of precision is OK, then there is no point in trying to make better parts.
 
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1200ts said:
Yes, but if you are going to the trouble of making "special racing parts" then you do the best you can to make the parts better than the factory did.
A three jaw chuck is never a precision piece of tooling. At best you will have about .08 mm of run out on a new chuck. A chuck with a few miles of use on it will probably have twice that at .16 mm of run out. And a old chuck, who knows?

I would have made an mandrel to go in the center of the clutch and machine off that. Would it make a difference for this bike, maybe but when running machine tools (lathe or mill) you are trying to be better than what the factory could achieve. If the factory level of precision is OK, then there is no point in trying to make better parts.
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You've got crap chucks... even the cheapo chinese do better than that! ;)

My old 3-jaw runs out at under 0.05mm, the collet chuck manages 0.015-0.02. To be fair, the 3-jaw gets a re-grind every couple of years though, something many don't bother doing.

You do have a very valid point though, if a job's worth doing, may as well do it right!

piet
 
Can you avoid movement and tool chatter just by using a tail mount as well? Says the bloke who used a lath for 20 minutes as a 13-year-old in the queue in 1st form of High School. We had 4 lathes in a class of 30 in 1st form Metal Work. 20 minutes on a lathe, 10 months on a Bastard File; we had plenty of Bastard Files.
 
I agree with the argument that you may as well improve the thing you're buggerising around with. I lightened all the rotating primary drive and clutch components in my motor, more by drilling using a dividing head. Obviously tried to keep everything concentric, but the main aim was weight reduction. If I'm making something 'important' from scratch I'll keep it in the chuck until it's finished, so everything is concentric.

My Emco Compact 8 4-jaw centering chuck runs nice and true but I do check and calibrate it occasionally.
 
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