Stainless steel down pipes

TheWrongTrousers

Senior member
Location
South London
My stainless Keihan down pipes have always been a devil to clean. I come back from a ride and if they get a splash of water or mud on them they go mottled and marks appear which i can only get off my using solvol autosol and very fine grade wire wool. Seems to take ages. then I have to do it all over again. It is as if they are the opposite of "stainless." I can't be just me. Does any one have any tips ?
 
I had my Stainless pipes Ceramic coated in their Bright Finish, I wanted to avoid any bluing and it did that very well, originally back then it was halfway between Chrome shiny and Polished Stainless Shiny. it was great for 3 or 4 years and then Dulled to a grey look, I got lazy with the polishing. During those years I would do the Autosol thing like you and that helped but they gradually did dull. Mine was Ceramic Coated internally and externally, the blurb says it apparently dissipates heat down the tube better and YEP increases engine performance, MAYBE. It defiantly reduces how hot they get. You can feel that. I did it all including collector and mufflers for $200ish Oz, probably more these days.
 
my stainless exhaust was bult up from used parts decades ago, I do not know who made them, a pair of silencers came from a crash repair at a dealers for zilch and only had minor scratches under neath which polished out, the collector was picked up at a table sale at the ILOC AGM, The header pipes ? I cannot remember where they originated, but I had the whole caboodle polished by the local chrome plater and was away for next to nothing, in the next ten years they cracked twice and I repaired them and re-inforced them, they necer cracked again, the silencer became thin at the socket ends and annoyed me a little because the left one can restrict the full movement of the master cylinder (stock footrests, long brake lever) and the right one would have the chain drag accross it if a tad too slack, when being pushed around riderless, so needed to repair the sockets, I cut them off and made up some new and differring shape adaptions to them they now clear the obstructions, this mod was ten years ago and still they dont crack, I take it all off about every 2 or 3 years for one reason or another and get them re-polished, I dont mind a bit of discoluoring, usually straw , but would worry about heat if they blued, which they dont, IMHO s/s is much preferably to chrome, gone rusty and pitting, then perforating the pipes, I love'em (sorry Coxy, that is the way it is)

CLEM
 
It is simply the nature of the beast. Our [single skin] downpipes get up to a temperature where they will certainly discolour. Unfortunately, for austenitic stainless steels (I'm pretty sure Keihan use 304~1.4301) this is the mucky brown-yellowing. Any splashing of water or dirt not only gets dried-on, but will change the local discolouration of the stainless. Sorry, but you are stuck with it. A mild steel set with good chroming is the answer, and you get a nice blueing at the top, to show folk how fast you ride (or how lean your mixture is :) )
 
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3M make a range of Scotchbright pads in fine grades defined by colours, Grey pads are around 800 grit and red ones 600 grit.
It still requires some elbow grease but quicker than Autosol. Final polishing with Autosol.
There are also some phosphoric acid cleaners for stainless of which Autosol also sell that if applied in conjunction with the Scotchbright pads make short work of the cleaning process, wear gloves when using.
 
If you search on YouTube you will find many ways to clean s/s. Harpic toilet cleaner seems to come up lot, probably because of the shitty job you’ve got to do😂😂👍
Tom
I run a Cox black chrome system...the headers discolour..nowt to be done, cannot polish that with solvol or use wire wool etc. Silencers look great , but the system doesnt fit well and was made to be a certain Scotsman, cursing as he did it😁
 
I run a Cox black chrome system...the headers discolour..nowt to be done, cannot polish that with solvol or use wire wool etc. Silencers look great , but the system doesnt fit well and was made to be a certain Scotsman, cursing as he did
So you waited literally years on end for him to finish it - the noo - and your fancy black exhaust doesn’t fit. Not even Harpic is going to fix that Nick
 
solvol seems to be the same as autosol, which is known here for decades and if you are patient it may work, good luck.
I also have a set of 40 mm stanles downpipes to polish and just used autosol which is not self polishing ☹️
 
toilet duck does a very good job of cleaning brass parts, as in carb interior bits, even badly gummed stuff left in evaporating fuel for years and years, as long as you can get a gas welders cleaning file through the centre of anything, just leave in the toilet duck overnight and they come out shite and briny, just dont piss on them, which is a great way of getting an acid etch on bare aluminium if you want to paint it
CLEM
 
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