Stanchion / fork Jota 180 / 1981

H

HLT

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Location
Jönköping, Sweden
Hi, I am looking for a new stanchion (unsure if it is called so) for my fork. Diameter is 38mm, but how do I know if it is Ceriani or Marzocchi? Is it possible to know length of stanchion before disassembling?

Bike is Jota 180 from 1981, sold in Sweden, see pics attached.
 

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on new fork legs, genuine or pattern, they are so polished that you cannot see any grinding marks at all, on re-chromed ones you can always see the cross hatching WHY????? it is horrible
CLEM
and dont say it wears off because it doent and no bike, when new in a showroom, shows it.
 
🙂 Many thanks for your quick replies. I am just thinking about replacing it, I am unsure if it is worth it. I have a kind of stain on the left leg, hard to show on a pic, but I will try.
 

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I get marks on my new stanchions but that localised wear looks it's showing the nickel plating underneath the chrome.
It's probably been rotated in the yokes but I'd suggest it's worn or bent ( leading to a high spot which has worn the plating off).
Incidentally, the new stanchions that I bought in 07 were Tarozzi from memory and were slightly oversize, coz I had to hone the sliders full length to get the tubes to move.
Rob
 
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there you go, even a good make like Tarozzi can't get it bang on correct, now those sliders can only go with oversize legs.
CLEM
 
Hi, yes I am quite sure it is original, it is not usd, must be the something strange with the pic.

New stanchion is about 285 euro at Laverda paradies. I cant see any damages at the other stanchion, do you think I shall replace both?

Rgds Herman
 
HLT said:
Hi, yes I am quite sure it is original, it is not usd, must be the something strange with the pic.

New stanchion is about 285 euro at Laverda paradies. I cant see any damages at the other stanchion, do you think I shall replace both?

Rgds Herman
Click to expand...
Laverda Paradies may be hard to get stuff from as Andy is trying to get out of it. There are other people listing stanchions if you do a search.
 
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Tippie said:
Laverda Paradies may be hard to get stuff from as Andy is trying to get out of it. There are other people listing stanchions if you do a search.
Click to expand...
Last chance to order is now, he will ship in middle of november, the future for LVP seems uncertain after this.

I think I will order one stanchion since the other one looks fine. Fork is leaking, but the cause is age and lack of use.

I
 
Hi, I am about to renew my front fork with new seals, however, I am a bit unsure what spec and quantity of oil I shall use? A workshop manual I have says 240cc SHF 150 oil, can anyone confirm if this is correct?
 
This job is more challenging for me than I thought. I have quite a bit of mechanical experience, although I have never disassembled a fork leg.

The seals I am about to replace are 25 years old, and are more or less stuck. Is heat gun best way to free them up? Or is it possible to dissolve them in some way?
 
HLT said:
The seals I am about to replace are 25 years old, and are more or less stuck. Is heat gun best way to free them up? Or is it possible to dissolve them in some way?
Click to expand...

The seals pull out quite easily, one at a time.
Carefully lever them out with a long screwdriver, protecting the top of the slider.
This is my “special tool” for hooking them out.

IMG_8874.jpeg
 
HLT said:
This job is more challenging for me than I thought. I have quite a bit of mechanical experience, although I have never disassembled a fork leg.

The seals I am about to replace are 25 years old, and are more or less stuck. Is heat gun best way to free them up? Or is it possible to dissolve them in some way?
Click to expand...
I have always found the fork seal change quite easy on the Laverda,make sure you remove the wire/circlip retainer before trying to prise the fork seals out.
New seals placed in the freezer and fork leg top in hot water help with the fitting.
 
You are welcome,its fairly easy once you have done it a few times and know what you are dealing with.
Once you have seperated the lower leg from the stanchion by removing the lower allen bolt,remove the wire clip holding the seals in, the seals should then easily prise out making sure to keep them fairly straight otherwise they can bind up.
If using a lever you don't want to put too much pressure on the lip of the leg for fear of damage,you can always place the leg upside down in hot water to expand and help release the seals.

On reassembly make sure to replace the copper washer or seal washer on the bottom bolt to prevent possible leakage.
 
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As mentioned some sort of cushioning on the fork leg upper lip to spread the forces of your prying tool will be good insurance against breaking or deforming the alu lip. A tool with a broad shoulder where it contacts the lip will help as well - I use a tyre lever. You'll feel quite a bit of resistance and then it will just give and pop out.
 
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