starter clutch sf gt

Evan

Full member
Location
Texas
Just redid the clutch. 6 springs, pegs & rollers. All used. Rollers Ok. But will need new pegs & springs. Are these pegs & springs Laverda only? Are these still available w/out having to buy a brand new starter clutch? & I haven't put it on yet. It would be a lot easier to lay it on its left side but Laverdas are top heavy. Don't want a hernia. I always spill the rollers.
 

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As above, Springs, plungers and rollers are all consumable parts and generally easily available from any of your favourite Lav suppliers đź‘Ť
Alternatively rollers are available from any bearing supplier. Springs are available from spring suppliers but you’d want to be reasonably careful to get a similar spec.
For reassembly I’ve found a little bit of grease helps to keep everything in place, however I’ve since been told not to do that, assembling it dry is a trick I’m still mastering 🤣
 
I'm still using the pegs from the 70's or 80s. The springs, rollers and ramp within the freewheel are the consumables - springs are def the first to go, and I've found that there are 'springs' and there are springs ... some seem to collapse a little too easily.

I used to put my clutch assembly together (starter chain removed, obviously) and fit it over the crank taper complete, with key in place.

With an assembly with springs in good condition I now leave the sprocket on the crank (again, chain removed) and fit the freewheel over it while turning the sprocket slowly anti-clockwise to engage it. If the rollers kep falling out your springs are not strong enough. You have to ensure the rollers remain in place and the sprocket can be spun backwards once the freewheel has mated with the taper. If it's a new freewheel you MUST ensure there is a few mm of lateral sideplay for the sprocket between the righthand main and freewheel. Disaster awaits if the gap s too small!!

And I assemble mine completely dry.
 
Thanks just tried to put the pulley on 3 times. I remember doing it before the whole assembly way. w/ the starter loose to get the starter chain off w/ the smaller starter sprocket. Then back on starter sprocket w/ clutch sprocket together w/ starter chain in between. You are blind to the woodruff key on the crank...So either way takes forever. Easier to lay them on the side.
I have ruined one starter because the crank reverse nut was too tight. Now I always will turn the engine forward & make sure the starter chain doesn't move. Is that enough???Or is there a torque.
Anyway I had the starters off from time to time. I don't think anybody has bush starter a Laverda more than I have.
 
They function perfectly well without oil. Some grease them up, others don't. I'm in the latter group.

Have you got a split link on your starter chain? If not, get one. I use old triple cam chains and cut them to size. You should be able to do the reverse thread crank nut up quite tight without ANY friction on the sprocket. Even if it moves freely there's a good chance it will grab once the crank is spinning at several 1000 RPM. If you have hand ground the taper on the crank to repair it you reduce the side clearance. I check it all with and empty starter clutch to be absolutely sure. I had to machine off the inner face of the starter pulley to get sufficient clearance. I like at least 1-2mm freeplay.

It takes me about 2 minutes to fit the complete assembly. You need to have the keyway slot and key close to aligned and keep a steady hand as you fit them.
 
Then back on starter sprocket w/ clutch sprocket together w/ starter chain in between. You are blind to the woodruff key on the crank...So either way takes forever. Easier to lay them on the side.
I have always fitted them like this. The starter clutch assembled and the chain fitted to both sprockets. The woodruff key in the crank tapped flat so that the clutch assembly can get over it, careful eye alignment. If the keyway is loose in the crank it will always push out.
 
Its on. Runs beautifully. Crisis over. This came about because I had not ridden it for a while had to get a new battery. Then discovered the starter clutch was slipping. I took the battery out 2 months ago. I fed it on a charger about once a wk or so. Ok I had no problem w/ starter clutch slipping before I took the battery out. It would start as soon as I would press the starter button. This time it would turn for about 2 seconds & then clatter.I was Surprised it even turned when I got it off. Most the pegs were broken up! Springs disarray...
Also thought pegs would have to be lubed. Back in my days I took the clutch off one time & one peg was stuck in its seat! Don't remember how I got it out but I would think lube would prevent any of that...
thanks. I still need to wire 8787sf. But engine is off & needs tires & I got new rear wheel bearings. Have to do all that 1st. I'll get back...
 
If you keep the starter clutch clean and lubricated, then the rollers and springs are not consumable parts. Most people don't ever look at the clutch until it no longer works and wonder why? All the parts in my 1968 GT starter clutch (three roller version, not six) are original as it was maintained before I ever bought the bike as was told by the original owner to keep it lubricated. Use a very thin grease. Grease such as car wheel bearing grease is to thick. I have put probably 75,000 miles on this bike and the clutch comes off every few thousand miles to be greased.

If you ride in the rain and park the bike in the rain, the clutch will turn in to a big piece of rust without grease.

Laverda was aware of the problem or they would not have put the triple starter clutch inside the motor where it gets oil.
 
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