Step by step ceriani for seal replacement

Ideally the drift's material would be softer than the bolt so as not to damage the bolt. Round brass bar the same diameter as the bolt's head would be good. Doesn't matter what you hit it with just needs some weight behind it.
 
Grant said:
My cordless rattle gun has worked flawlessly with no nut/bolt damage.
Mainly used for crank nuts.
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Mine tore the shit out of wheel nuts and studs, one on the Jeep I had at the time and also on my mower. Same job done with the air impact with nil probs. Air impact handles the 146Nm torque on the Triumph rear wheel nut with ease as well.
 
cbertozz said:
So this drift, I don?t have a drift, I have screw drivers, allen keys , but no drift. Maybe a trip to Bunnings in the morning.  Are we talking a hard smack with a proper mallet or is a dead-weight hammer ok?
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You could use a mild steel bolt with a diameter bigger than the alan head. Needs a couple of hard smacks with whatever heavy hammer you have. Do wear eye protection.
 
The  hammer weight and the frequency of the blows affect how well an impact gun works. Most of the battery powered guns use a lighter weight hammer and a faster impact rate. If the operator isn't holding the tool tight against the work or the socket is a poor fit the vibration from the impacting bounces the socket around and tears up the  fastener. Air tools generally hit harder and turn at a lower rpm so the vibes don't shake the tool as much.
 
Giving bolts/screws a whack with a drift is often the secret for loosening screws and bolts, as they have said. It was de-rigeur with all the cheesey phillips head screws on Jap bikes, even helped before using an impact screwdriver, and will most likely help with your 8mm allen head bolt, with the forkleg clamped into soft jaws across the flats. If it doesn?t budge, just whack it harder, if that won?t help the hex internals will probably give out with an allen key anyway.
 
Blimey - hammers and drifts, rattle guns  :o 
I've never come across a Marzocchi or Ceriani fork bolt that I couldn't simply undo with an Allen key.

BTW, when you do get the bolt out, don't forget to reassemble it with the sealing washer otherwise it'll leak fork oil. The original washer has a rubbery seal on its inner edge like those in the photo below (probably has some fancy name) but sometimes the rubber is perished, peeling off, or gets torn when you undo it, rendering the seal ineffective. If it's fucked, an annealed copper washer will work just as well if you can't find a replacement hydraulic sealing washer.

pl16855813-ptfe_epdm_bonded_seal_customized_rubber_edge_seal_bonded_to_metal.jpg
 
Here is how professionals do it

 

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Cam, I believe those are called Dowty washers or something like that.  They work well on those iffy sealing situations, they have saved any number of Quik Lube "technicians" when they forget to put a wrench on the drain bolt they just turned in finger tight! i used to find them with some regularity when I worked on Honda's.
 
Are you sure Cerianis came with them? Mine had copper washers from new I am sure, but these Dowtys seem like a good idea, often seem to get oil sweat despite always annealing the washers. I agree, the allen bolts should come out with an allen key, I use socket ones.
 
Well I invested in a rattle gun and it worked a treat first time with very little power, bolt and seal in tact.

Now talk to me about circlips :D

I have a set of circlip pliers but no idea how they work!! Getting closer!
 
They will only work if the circlip has a small ring like holes at each open end. Some only have a mitre like splayed end that takes a dental pick or small slotted screwdriver to flick out by starting at this end, take your time and don't bend it or gouge any of the fork body. Watch your eyes, slowly work it out around the circumference. It might take 2 tools, one to lever and the other to slip behind the clip.
 
It has hole either end, wide rushing me out to cinema so will have a good look later.

Anyone got one of those exploded diagrams that show what order stuff comes out/in?

 
cbertozz said:
Well I invested in a rattle gun and it worked a treat first time with very little power, bolt and seal in tact.

Now talk to me about circlips :D

I have a set of circlip pliers but no idea how they work!! Getting closer!
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They work how you think they would work. You stick the tips into the holes and squeeze the handles together. Assuming of course you are using circlip pliers for internal circlips.
 
If all 4 are the same, your ok, if 2 are different they are dust wipes and they go on top. But together there 2 tall to fit so they either don't get used and you instead use one of the old seals as a spacer or modify the dust seal and that isn't so easy. Read this.
https://www.laverdaforum.com/forum/index.php/topic,97233.msg397765.html#msg397765
 
Turns out Greg had supplied a spacer so I have fitted spacer, then snap-ring, then the dust wipe which sort of fitted (you're right it sits a mm or so high but seems fairly well seated, then I've put an old school dust cover over the top. Late now so will wait to put the oil in tomorrow and hope it doesn't come pissing out.
 
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