Step by step ceriani for seal replacement

cbertozz said:
It has hole either end, wide rushing me out to cinema so will have a good look later.
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Not sure your wife will appreciate being called "wide". Bit of a cruel nickname even if she is obese.
I reckon the "good look later "will reveal that she has more holes than just one at either end.
 
Dellortoman said:
Not sure your wife will appreciate being called "wide". Bit of a cruel nickname even if she is obese.
I reckon the "good look later "will reveal that she has more holes than just one at either end.
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Hahah bloody phone autocorrect!!

Anyway, oil is in (the fork) and it's not leaking yet! Do the other one today and then give it a real test.
 
Thanks for all the helpful suggestions and heckling, as always a joy and pleasure and I learnt new things and bought new tools.

As it happens as well as the AEG impact wrench I also bought a manual one for those less niggly things that need loosening.
 
Dellortoman said:
What's a manual impact wrench - a shifter (adjustable spanner) and a hammer?
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Impact screwdriver the official definition
https://www.bunnings.com.au/trojan-impact-screwdriver-set_p6060262
 
cbertozz said:
Impact screwdriver the official definition
https://www.bunnings.com.au/trojan-impact-screwdriver-set_p6060262
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You obviously have never owned any Japanese motorcycles if you didn't already have one of those in the tool box.
 
I think an impact screwdriver was the first motorcycle specific tool I ever bought, after chewing up the heads of several Phillips head screws on my Japanese bike. I must have been about 17 years old.
 
Dellortoman said:
I think an impact screwdriver was the first motorcycle specific tool I ever bought, after chewing up the heads of several Phillips head screws on my Japanese bike. I must have been about 17 years old.
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Most of my Jappers were converted to cap screws over Phillips head, where possible........ Phillips head  ::)  I wonder how the old codger is going since his crash.
Shame he wasn't driving one of their Rollers (bolt)
 
Well, I spoke too soon.

Rode another 15 then bike started to feel funny, like steering head was too tight.

Turn around and come home , check oil and it?s different between legs, so I fill the legs quickly to the same height (roughly) and the bike feels better but not 100%.

So what could have happened (mechanically) between setting off to 20km out to change the feeling? The seal is not leaking.

 
Trapped air, you need to pump the staunchion to fill up the rod properly, and slowly, otherwise you will get covered with oil, btw how much oils did you put in?
 
100% trapped air, they need stroking through. Best way to set the hight is either a Turkey Baster or big syringe with a length of hard clear plastic tube maked to required depth to suck the oil out. Fork fully bottomed after stroking them through a few times and springs out, plus emulators out, make sure the oil level covers the pistons. Some leave the emulators in, what that,3/5 of fuck all volume. You can set them mounted on the bike if you put a car jack under the front wheel and jack it till they bottom. That's obviously with caps off and spings out. DONT JACK IT OFF THE STAND. Cable tie on the front brake so the wheel stays still.So thats all completely fitted and just the caps and springs out. Also, take care it doesn't collapse forward when both caps are off.
 
Add the required amount of fluid, sit in front of the bike, grab each fork leg and pretend you are milking a cow, you'll hear a swishing noise on each stroke as the oil passes through the orifices. When the swishing stops, leave the forks fully extended for a couple of minutes then measure how much oil in each leg with a metal tape measure, add fluid until the levels are equal.
Piece of cake!
 
In another thread you said that you were sliding the forks through the clamps in order to obtain a more neutral stance. This may make the steering feel less responsive, although it would probably be noticeable sooner than 20k after you started out.

Cheers,

bazzee
 
Lowering the front of the bike, or in other words, pushing the legs higher through the trees make it more responsive, quicker steering. It would take a lot eg virtually empty one leg of fork oil to make it feel really twitchy. EG zero damping in one leg leaving only spring action. It would dive like crazy on the brakes. These things are not hypersensitive modern bikes, it takes a lot to really make them handle badly, like the time I took all the emulator spring preload out. It bounced like a beach ball. That I noticed bigtime
 
Hmmm.

I wish it was like brakes where you can zip tie the lever to let air trickle out. (I might have left the little grub screws loose anyway ;) (and a spanner on there to remind me I have)

I did a bit of pumping with grub screws out and went for a spin, was a little better still. Oil is even , about 360ml.
Stuck a dowling rod down to measure oil.

Will pop the caps and check that everything is lined up at some point. My bloody shoulder is agnony at moment so not good for testing.
 
Legs said:
Add the required amount of fluid, sit in front of the bike, grab each fork leg and pretend you are milking a cow, you'll hear a swishing noise on each stroke as the oil passes through the orifices. When the swishing stops, leave the forks fully extended for a couple of minutes then measure how much oil in each leg with a metal tape measure, add fluid until the levels are equal.
Piece of cake!
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You have obviously never milked a cow. Plus, you get milk from a cow, not cake  :o  :LOL:

 
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