stuck RGS clutch?

if it is a stuck clutch, I had very good results with the following product:

https://www.louis-moto.co.uk/artikel/procycle-oil-system-cleaner-200ml/10004877?regionPopupClicked=true&_ga=2.259974223.414888105.1498118838-1436958712.1498118838

Fill it into your engine, let the engine warm up, put the bike with the front wheel agains a wall, put some 1" piece of wood under the center stand so you make sure the rearwheel is free, now put in first gear, rev the bike to 2.000 and see if the rear wheel is moving. if so, pull the clutch and gently tab on the rear brake.

If the clutch frees up, you will notice the rear wheel to stop when you brake. If not, you will notice the engine speed slowing a bit down. repeat the process then as long as it takes to free the clutch up. helped on 3 bikes I had...

Make sure you do NOT keep the clutch lever pulled for to long! It might cause the little metal ball sitting between the two push-rods to weld to one or both of the pushrods...

good luck!!

When it makes such terrible noise though, I would consider stripping the left side of the engine and take a look if you can see anything unusual... If you don't know how, just ask. An impact wrench will help a lot...

But what also makes terrible noise is a gear that is not 100% engaged...
 
I am not local to Monmouth I am sorry to say, but surely there is a knowledgeable chap who is local who can help.
I prefer the "get driving by rolling and snicking a gear" method for freeing up the clutch, which has worked for me on quite a few vehicles and even a WW11 Diamond T tank transporter, that can do a hill start on a 1;8 with a train load of 100 tonnes, so the gearbox(s) there are two, are very strong and  "usually" on any vehicle, the clutch will be the weakest link, what needs to be avoided, as grant says, is crunching and shock loading, by using the  rolling method this is all avoided, once under way, just pull the clutch lever and then apply rear brake until it frees, getting harder and harder on the pedal to achieve this.
CLEM
 
  (banghead)  Note to myself ...must smack my head into the garage wall harder... and repeat.

Woke up at 6.00 thinking about the bike.

The "obstruction in drive chain/sprockets " made me think.  I had replaced rear sprocket bolts with some with magnets  for a electronic speedo to augment the 'Vague-lia'.  Surely that wasn't catching?  But I could remember that I was spinning the wheel to check magnet sensor clearance  and everything was fine.  Then... OH SHIT! the only other work I had done was to replace the shock mounting bolts.

At 6.10 I was in the garage to confirm my fear. The new Bolt was too long and was now catching the sprocket bolts.  (cuss)

I feel such an idiot.  When I fitted the bolt the bike was on the ramp and rear wheel 'grounded' so I wouldn't have spun it to check.

I will try to remove the now damaged/offending  bolt  and assess what damage has been done elsewhere.  I'm hoping its just at the rear wheel  which provided the 'Weak point' in the transmission and not anything else.

Will get back with photos of my stupid F**k up later, hopefully to say no futher traumas expected (PLEASE LORD!)

In meantime thanks for the immediate input  from so many members
 
LOL am sure that most of us have done something similar at some time :-)
That right shock nut should also be half sized
 
  • Brett said:
    LOL am sure that most of us have done something similar at some time :-)
    That right shock nut should also be half sized
    Click to expand...

    1) maybe but I decided that I would not look again at the bike today cause I still feel like a complete P***K .
    2) will measure very carefully (its not standard swinging arm or shock mounts) and will source half nuts and Loctite in place

    Lessons learned over course of the resto/rebuild/modification
    • Each mod on a bikes requires 3 other alterations you never thought about.
    • They all take longer and cost more than you imagined
    • Sometimes you can do a better job yourself than specialists (but its knowing when you cant that's difficult)
    • if you really understood what a PITA it would be  most folks wouldn't start on a series of heavy modifications!!

    will get back on track soon I hope.  I will remove wheel and post up photos of the damage as promised
 
Most blokes our age upgraded the sixpack for a keg!
Good that it turned out to be so simple. From this thread it is well illustrated to take things step by step, starting with the simplest.
Many have fallen in the trap of stripping a motor from a symptom like this.
It?ll be fine and you?ll make the Classic TT after all.
 
IMG_0581.jpg

One rough machined sprocket retaining bolt (3 more like this!) The speedo drive magnet is the pip in the middle

IMG_0584.jpg

and one tooling tip  lower shock retaining bolt (RHS)

there was about 3mm 'interference' between the two (a bit less after the 1 second engagement!)

On removing the shock bolt (well named) the rear wheel spun blissfully in neutral.

New parts on order

Will post more once all back together (shotgun temporarily back in cupboard!!).





 
Interested that you need four magnets for your electronic speedo. I have mounted a bicycle speedo to my bike that only requires one magnet. The magnet is located in a milled hole in one of the rear disc bolts and the sensor is fitted to the rear caliper mount, that way they stay aligned when the chain is adjusted.
Sure found out how 'vague' the Veglia speedo is :o
 
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