Stupid question: shock absorber eyes - washers or not washers?

Ventodue

Hero member
Location
France
Hi everyone,

I'm fitting a new set of shockers on to my Corsa and am just wondering ...

Should there be washers either side of the mounting bushes/eyes - see photo. There were with the Konis I'm removing, but I note that the parts manual for the Marzocchi OE doesn't show any - see attachment.

Can't pretend this has really bothered me much in the past.  But since I'm there now ...

All views and opinions welcome!

Ciao

Craig
 

Attachments

  • RGS shock bolts.jpg
    RGS shock bolts.jpg
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  • RGS shock washers.jpg
    RGS shock washers.jpg
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Hi Craig

I always like to put large-ish washers on the 'outside' such that if the rubber completely shears, there is no way the shock can fall off (assuming the across flats of your bolt is smaller then the shock eye internal diameter).

As for the inside, it's not necessary. Having said that I have a bunch of washers on the inside of 1 of my Jota shock mounts because the top and bottom don't line up. Adding the washers (spacer) saves lateral load/wear on the rod and bushes.

Paul

 
Ta Paul.  Yup, gotcha  :D.

I'm kinda leaning in favour of outside washers just 'cos it looks right uncomfortable without them.  Inside? Well, I can't see what 'job of work' they would be doing, alignment adjustments aside.

Let's see what anyone else says ... ;)
 
Craig,

Here?s the standard Corsa set up (with washer on outside of the shocker, as Hag said)

ATB

Ian


46106264685_07dec5dc06_o_d.jpg
 
On top of the line shocks I have seen have a spherical bearing that takes any load out of the fixing, the shock action needs to allow pivoting and that's what the rubber bush does in a cheaper way. That's my take and I have been wrong before. I didnt like the way my big washer was touching both the outer eye and the inner eye so I found some hardened smaller washers to allow clearance so the inner bush could pivot as easily as possible. It took some filling on the washers to achieve this. All part of the fun making the bike go to its best.In reality, it probably did F all but thats what I did
 
Thanks, peeps - Ian for the photo, and Vince for expressing what was going on in the back of my head: will fitting washers both sides impede the ends of the shocks from being able to squidge around a bit?  :-\
 
I?m not sure that you will gain anything from putting a washer on the inside Craig. If you try and pack out the silentbloc you?ll just stop it working effectively and likely ruin it. ?Bear? in mind that the inner bush is longer than the outer width of the silentbloc (well it is on the Marzocchi) so is clamped between the outer washer and swinging arm allowing the rubber to do its (squidgy) job. The outer washer is there in the event of the rubber failing and stopping the whole caboodle coming off. A very simple and effective bearing that has worked in many suspension applications for decades. No need to re-invent in my head, just set up as standard 😀

Ian
 
Vince said:
On top of the line shocks I have seen have a spherical bearing that takes any load out of the fixing, the shock action needs to allow pivoting and that's what the rubber bush does in a cheaper way.

Spherical bushes are a bad idea because they wear and rattle loose.

I tried a set on my 4x4, they were soon replaced under warranty by the manufacturer.

They replaced them with standard rubber bushes. The original product was discontinued.
 
It all comes down to travel, if you have road bike travel, around 100mm I supose the rubber bushes work ok even with the friction that would restrict tiny free movement. Need long travel like a dirtbike and I cannot see how rubber would be a good idea. Those spherical bearings worked and lasted great on my Husky. But its not a 3 or more ton 4x4 so on idea on them. A simple test is to use what you have and bolt the shock on one end and try to move it, if it locks in place it will restrict free travel and needs shimming. My Icons did.
 
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