suzuki wheels

sfcpiet said:
The later 2.75" rims have much thicker spokes and are quite a bit heavier,,
Click to expand...
ok, reckon i'll stick with me light & flimsy 750 front wheel.
Clyde does steer nice and light.  surprising for a Lav triple ?  well,, it sure surprised me !

and now i know where to look for trouble, thanks blokes.
GregT said:
Back in the day we used to straighten the bent rims - usually the spokes close to the hub -
Click to expand...
cheers
 
I heard it was the first model year of the GSXR 750 that had 'soft' wheels. After that Suzuki beefed them up as the bikes were regularly used on the track.
 
Avon do a handy tyre and rim width chart for their rubber.

http://www.avonmotorsport.com/historic/motorcycle/am23

Decided to fit a Am23 140 (which comes out at 150 mm overall) to my ?10.00 rear wheel :D Luck does come around now and again

Maitland.


Oops, got that wrong, 130 comes out at 140 mm ::) There's enough room for a 150 mm width tyre but to be honest it would make bugger all difference at the moment :D
 
sfcpiet said:
You have no idea of the condition of the major west german roads, nothing short of pathetic! >:D  Not to mention "B" or "C" roads, proper goat tracks most of them!

All our tax monies have gone into re-building eastern Germany, they probably have the best roads in Europe at the moment! ::)
piet
Click to expand...

I'll see your German roads post unification - and raise you Christchurch roads post quakes....

Automotive suspension shops are coining it here at present - and it won't get any better any time soon.
 
Brembo 4 pots (30/34s) off Ducati 916/Guzzi Sport 1100 etc etc.  You'll need a GSXR or early Hyabusa rear caliper and bracket.  Use the original GSXR discs or EBC etc.  Don't forget, there's some work to do before it all bolts together.
 
You can also fit the matching rear Brembo caliper, just have to fabricate a bracket.
Or machine one out of a big block if you have access to a milling machine.
Oh and you have to cut off the bracket which holds the standard rear caliper bracket.
 
we used the original bracket and caliper, just made up a distance/bush piece to compensate for the smaller diameter of the rear axle of the Laverda.
 
If you want to go wider than a 150/70 tyre on a 180 triple then you need an RGS swingarm.

I have seen 160 rear tyre on an RGS.

My 180 triple has a 150/70 rear tyre on a standard 180 swingarm, just extra triangulation for the monoshock but otherwise standard 180 swinger.

Either way you need to remove the torque arm lug and ideally run an offset 520 chain and sprockets.
Using this set up on my 180 I have several mm spacing between 150/70 tyre and swingarm.
 
these are for my rga sprint  so swinging arm etc should be OK ,I am getting all the parts etc and am going to do the conversion over the winter ,no mention if I use the existing Master cylinders or do I need to fit alternatives .
thanks for all the input really helpful
dave
 
you will have various axle spacers to make, for front and rear wheels
if you wish to retain the Laverda speedo drive you have some machining to do on the front wheel to make the speedo drives fit
while there, you have to machine the spigots for the disc rotors back a bit to allow them to fit inside your front end
sprocket carrier needs machining to get sprocket lined up with the front one
sort out how you are going to attach your calipers to the forks and lined up with your now larger rotors, did you get 300mm or 310mm rotors ?
sort out the bearings for the rear and front wheels to suit the Laverda axles
change master cylinder to suit 4 piston calipers
new brake lines
etc

will keep you going over winter easy
good luck

 
Two ways of tackling the rear end. You can either reduce the size of the spindle hole in the wheel etc. to 17mm to suit the Laverda swing arm or machine the swing arm ends and chain adjusters to accept a 20mm axle. I do the later as I feel it gives a more rigid location of the wheel and it works out a bit lighter as I modify a hollow Suzuki spindle to suit. As Red said, plenty to keep you going.


  Keith
 
Before you splash out on new master cylinders, try the Brembo 4 pots with the o/e ones first, you may find they're OK.  On my old bike I had a 14mm Nissin and it was fine.  On my RGS I use one off a Firestorm which gives a good action, but both the latter options would mean ditching the handlebar pad.
 
My 180 triple has a 150/70 rear tyre on a standard 180 swingarm, just extra triangulation for the monoshock but otherwise standard 180 swinger.
Click to expand...

Aye, but on a 750 Slabby rear, it'd be bloody tight on an 1100 rim.
 
Depends on which make of tyre you use.
They all seem to have different inflated widths.
 
Dave, either size will give you a lot more braking power and control than the 280 Brembos, and be a lot lighter too. The 300s were only available as fixed, the 1100 310s were floating. I don't know if fixed or floating really makes any difference on a road bike, but I went for the 310 floaters myself for maybe a bit better braking control. Originals will be a bit hard to get, EBC and MetalGear (Australian, don't know if they distribute in the UK) are readily available and not too expensive ::).

Ken
 
Grant said:
If you want to go wider than a 150/70 tyre on a 180 triple then you need an RGS swingarm.

I have seen 160 rear tyre on an RGS.
Click to expand...

A 160 will rub if fitted to a 4.00" rim, marginally ok if fitted to a 3.50" rim.

piet
 

Attachments

  • 160 slick on 3.50 rim.jpg
    160 slick on 3.50 rim.jpg
    140.9 KB · Views: 41
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top