teflon glider for chain?

just to be on the safe side: what's the advised slack for the chain for  jota? I was told that you should be able to lift the feed side 2 fingers up, no more. Although that gives some direction, it's not overly scientific. Anything more precise?

As to cyclist torques: trying to find a vid from Steve Peat, the winningest downhill mountain biker ever. Sitting on a chair hands on the back. one metre in front of him is a table twice as high as the chair. sat from the chair he jumps on that table in one go with hands still on back. I don't even manage to get half as high as the chair.
 
Hi Mingh,
Don't be tempted to over adjust the chain in an effort to prevent it turning into a slapper....I'm not trying to teach my grandmother to to suck eggs here but you should always check your chain with someone sat on the bike. The ideal tension is probably a wee bit slacker than most folks would assume. In my experience the gearchange quality on triples is quite sensitive to chain tension .

Cam , your round bar looks suspiciously like a fixed point pulley in your drive train..... :D
 
Amazingly enough, I agree with Bob here...tempting as it is to tighten what appears to be a loose chain, if you sit on the bike and check tension(not the easiest of jobs, I grant you  but I am tall /have long enough arms!) you will find that it has to be reasonably loose when unloaded. And once a 630 has done its damage, a very loose 530 ain't going to do any more...
Not being equipped/competent /confident I still use spring-links....any problems with that on a Jota.....I've never had any myself.
Nick7
ps enjoyed the Benzina article Bob..not bad for a Jota hater! :D
 
Thanks Nick! Regarding spring links I think Regina recommend that they are only suitable for bikes up to 70bhp....more than adequate for the average Jota then....boom boom :D

Joking apart I've always used split links on triples and never had a problem, a rivetted link is technically superior but I think on our old clunkers we're probably within safe limits using a split link, and they do make a life a lot easier.

Blimey, that's two things we've agreed on :D
 
bob said:
Cam , your round bar looks suspiciously like a fixed point pulley in your drive train..... :D
Click to expand...

Yes but now you've got a relatively angular stress point on the chain. It's the easy solution in this case not so much the best and no doubt not a problem for most ;) A longer concave teflon style glider would be better but would be more difficult to mount in this position on the Duc, hence the oggy knob solution which keeps the chain off the frame, but I wouldn't use such a solution on a race bike.  :o
 
Im have a rather long chain, 530= 114 links. I rivited a length of teflon, about 100mm X 4mm onto the swing arm where the chain rubs. Tapered the leading edge. 10 years later still in operation.
Problem solved, piece of piss
 
Mingh,

As what you propose is on the slack side of the chain it is unlikely to be any sort of problem.  Indeed the RGS has one standard, and other bikes, such as my FZR engined Bimota, also run a similar roller or radiused slider.  The 180's, at least the later ones, have the tube crudely crushed to give a little more clearance in this location.  What bike do you have there?
The time when something on the underside of the "slack" side of the chain will be at it's maximum intrusion to the driveline will be under maximum engine braking and full rear rebound (ie hard braking).  Fortunately this is also the time when there is most slack in the chain, and the chain should always have a generous amount of slack even at mid-stroke, in order to go easy on the 5th gear/mainshaft.
Whatever you put on there, just try to make as big a radius as possible and make sure it does not get too much in the way of the lower chain run when it is under tension.

Cheers
Steve B

PS The RGS one is parts 92 and 93 in the following diagram;
http://www.laverda-paradies.de/shop/catalog.php?lng=en&cat=1000&chp=80
 
A good way of obtaining PTFE is to use a chefs chopping board... Hard wearing and cheap.

  I have used them (cut down) on various motocrossers... Maico 460 .

    Just don't take the chef with you..... They drag against the chain and make horrible mess
 
bob said:
Cam , your round bar looks suspiciously like a fixed point pulley in your drive train..... :D
Click to expand...

The "pulley" doesn't create any change of angle in the chain, so there's bugger-all load on the plastic block. All it does is stop the chain slapping on the case. Anyway, it doesn't rotate so it's not a pulley  ;)

My initial thought was that when it wears down, I could loosen the bolt and turn it around to a new bit of the bar. But in about 1000km of use so far there is no sign of wear.

Cheers,
Cam
 
Tim remember Carl Pope ? Was a Maico wizzkid in 70s, he was employed by me and we sold a lot of Maico chains. They went from triplex to single chains with mixed results I have to admit. In those days tho they used small pin chains as the big pinned ones were not made yet.

Andy
 
I have used strips of Delrin for chain sliders on my off-roaders - it works well. Quite easy to obtain. P.
 
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