The Flying Bogie - Prep for Breganze

[Normski]

the original under battery air filter has not been available for years, I was loaned a precious brand new one by a fellow Laverdisti from Sweden (I think) and this was used by Unifilter Australia to make replacement, using their oiled membrane. It was near the end of my relationship with them and I was not pleased with the result, what they did was make a "wrap" for the original cage using their known oilable filter stuff, but in most cases (yours as well no doubt Hag) that item got chucked out with the filthy filter. None the less they sold out in days, with the very last one being donated by me to Longshanks I think! What I suggest you do is make an oval cage from stainless expanded metal, with an oval plate (swaged edges)at each end, welded to it and then "wrap" it in some filter membrane from a motocross/off road shop.

of course if any customers still have an unused filter, a used filter or even one of the Unifilter ones, then you know of a very worthy place that can make good use of it!
CLEM

I've bought pretty much what you describe from Wolfgang in the past Clem, he probably still stocks them. If you feel a desperate need for a filter for your Breganze trip Paul I can lend you one (of Wolfgang's)

 

[Haggis]

Thanks for the tips on air fileration guys. I'm short on time before Breganze, so will maybe come up with a coarse gauze to stop stray elephants being sucked in for that trip.

Todays jobs are setting the tappets and tidy up of the fuse box. Tappets - what a joy. So simple. They were all quite loose, to the same degree, suggesting a method fault, or maybe taking the 'set loose rather than tight' a bit too literally.

To the fuse box... A bunch of failing crimped connectors and rattly loose stuff was exposed. Connectors are being replaced. Fuse box is OK aftermarket quality, but will be given some TLC from the glue gun to stop the internals moving/vibrating around.

Q - the fuses fitted are 25 and 20A. The only reference I can find is the wiring diagrams, which show 16 and 8A. Can anybody confirm the correct fuse ratings? (SF, long Bosch lamp, no indiscators, etc). Cheers

 

[Haggis]

Hi Normski. Thanks for the offer of the loan, as you mentioned below, I will go with a coarse filter for now. The non-leaking induction on the LH side suggests the jets are about right, so will leave as musch as possible 'steady' in the days remaining. Thanks again. P

Hi Ron, no holes pistions thank goodness.

 

[Rob]

Yep - dynamo is good for a heady 11A, so 16 and 8 amp fuses do the job just fine.  Love the woodscrew (?) and tiewrap job on the fusebox.  Similar design to what I used on the RGS...sat mine on a rubber sheet to avoid the risk of shorts across the open back.  Glue gun - why didn't I think of that?!

 

[LJ-2]

before and after here (sans fuses) Paul ! even had a domestic fuse in it.

 

[Dellortoman]

I hate those pre-insulated crimp connectors with a passion. They're the electrical equivalent of using an imperial stud in a metric thread (seen that a few times). Just not the right thing for the job.

 

[2622]

Nor are those god damn scotch locks...
Your solution looks a way better solution though I would have used boot lace connectors on the ends........perhaps you have just cant see them.

 

[CLEMTOG]

I know where you are coming from Cam regarding the pre-insulated connectors, I was with you for years, but have recently changed my mind, because of the purchase of a professional quality (as in loads of money) crimping pliers especially for the pre-insulated type, and the result is very much superior to before, very nearly excellent in fact, but not quite, I now add a short length of heat shrink tube to the wire before crimping the connector, and then shrink the stuff to make a cover from cable to connector sheath, I still like the bare type with a poly cover that just slides down the cable and does the job.
CLEM

 

[2622]

Hi Clem

21st century solution better than adding your own heat shrink... but beware of ratchet crimp pliers as they can "wear" and cause issues..

 

[Simonr501]

That's a neat fix Brett!

I am a bare crimps and slide sleeve over afterwards sort of guy, so spot on.
Clem is right though, you can get calbrated clutch type crimpers for the pre-insulated crimps. I just don't think that are as accurate.

 

[sfcpiet]

Pre-insulated connectors may work OK in a dry, vibration-free environment for quite some time, but that sort of thing is quite rare on a motorcycle...

Proper crimp connectors, slide-over insulating cap and a drop of water repellent or a blob of grease will provide far superior reliability on a bike.

Squash-on connectors with heat-shrink may be a bit better, but don't really convince me.

piet

 

[Haggis]

Many minor fettlings happened yesterday. Bloody hot in the UK sun though. Needed a few cold ones to get through the day.

Thanks for confirming the fuse ratings Rob. 11A eh! Woooo. Love your old fuse box Shaun. Classic bodgery.

More re wiring occured, the bike is infested with pre-insulated crimps. The horns and its relay got some TLC.
Horn connection blade was broken off so new one soldered on...

Let's replace...

OK next question. The bike's wheels are fimly on the floor when on centre stand. There is a little play in the RH bush, but not excessive. Replacement will help, but not cure. The forward stand-stop, against the frame, is not overly worn. Is it normal for an SF to do this? Shocks are standards length, forks are in standard position in yokes. In its current state it will fall over at some point. Wheels are grabbing up all the gravity and not letting it to the stand!  Cheers!

 

[Tippie]

"dynamo is good for a heady 11A, so 16 and 8 amp fuses do the job just fine"
Dynamo output has nothing to do with the fuses you need. The fuses are to protect against overload from the battery, which on an SF is very powerful. The fuse should be rated a bit over the cunsumption that flows through it. True that 16 and 8 amp fuses are suitable for anything you will be using on your bike. An excellent idea is to use the ignition switch to flick a relay, thereby avoiding having all service power going through the switch. For myself I have one mini relay for the ig switch, and one each for high and low beam (so that the handlebar switches don?t have to pass the full lighting loads.
The last time I had my SF generator load tested the marine lecky pulled 22amps out of it. He maintained that the only diff from it to the VW car unit was that the bike one didn?t have venting holes for cooling.

 

[Smartv11]

OK next question. The bike's wheels are fimly on the floor when on centre stand. There is a little play in the RH bush, but not excessive. Replacement will help, but not cure. The forward stand-stop, against the frame, is not overly worn. Is it normal for an SF to do this? Shocks are standards length, forks are in standard position in yokes. In its current state it will fall over at some point. Wheels are grabbing up all the gravity and not letting it to the stand!  Cheers!

also look at where the forward stops hit the frame cross member, mine had been dented by the stand over the last 40 years and had to be filled with weld before powder coat.

 

[sfcpiet]

OK next question. The bike's wheels are fimly on the floor when on centre stand. There is a little play in the RH bush, but not excessive. Replacement will help, but not cure. The forward stand-stop, against the frame, is not overly worn. Is it normal for an SF to do this? Shocks are standards length, forks are in standard position in yokes. In its current state it will fall over at some point. Wheels are grabbing up all the gravity and not letting it to the stand!  Cheers!

Paul,

Rear wheel should be a good 3-4cm off the floor when bike is on the centre stand.  What length are the shocks?  Should be around 350(352/354?)mm if original Ceriani.  Triple shocks (362mm) are often fitted to increase cornering clearance.

piet

 

[CLEMTOG]

my money is on the tyre sizes, or more specifically the tyre heights, originally (way back when) the tyres were Continental ex factory, it was popular when the bikes where youngish, maybe early seventies to fit Dunlop TT100's which have a lower profile, which changes things,(no worries here but bad news if you happen to have the SF1/2/3 under gearbox balance pipe) but the imperial tyre sizes of those days have long gone and the choice in 18" is limited, the probability is that your tyres are too high for your stand, or its going too far over centre., but you are not nearly as stupid as I and you knew that anyway
CLEM

 

[Dellortoman]

you are not nearly as stupid as I

But he can do  good imitation of stupid. 

I'm not completely convinced by Clem's theory of larger tyre diameters. Going by Piet's estimate of 3-4 cm clearance under the rear wheel, the tyres would have to be at least that much bigger in diameter to have both wheels planted on the floor. It's certainly possible, but I'd be surprised if tyre aspect ratios have grown that much. It makes more sense if someone had shortened the stand when the bike had low aspect tyres.

Paul, take the stand off, check the legs for straightness when viewed from the side. I've seen them with the pivot tangs bent forward from too much weight on the stand. Can be caused by some heavy handed git using ratchet tie-downs with the bike on the centre stand, or by the bike being hauled back onto the stand with gusto while it has 3 tons of luggage on the rack.

I dunno whether you have oxy and welding gear. If not, take it around to Clem. Heat up any bent bits and bash 'em straight, build up the worn stops with weld, fit new pivot bolts and all should be well. But if it's still not high enough, ask Clem (nicely) to weld some extension pieces in your legs. The stand legs I mean, not your legs.

 

[sfcpiet]

But he can do  good imitation of stupid. 

I'm not completely convinced by Clem's theory of larger tyre diameters. Going by Piet's estimate of 3-4 cm clearance under the rear wheel, the tyres would have to be at least that much bigger in diameter to have both wheels planted on the floor. It's certainly possible, but I'd be surprised if tyre aspect ratios have grown that much. It makes more sense if someone had shortened the stand when the bike had low aspect tyres.

Paul, take the stand off, check the legs for straightness when viewed from the side. I've seen them with the pivot tangs bent forward from too much weight on the stand. Can be caused by some heavy handed git using ratchet tie-downs with the bike on the centre stand, or by the bike being hauled back onto the stand with gusto while it has 3 tons of luggage on the rack.

I dunno whether you have oxy and welding gear. If not, take it around to Clem. Heat up any bent bits and bash 'em straight, build up the worn stops with weld, fit new pivot bolts and all should be well. But if it's still not high enough, ask Clem (nicely) to weld some extension pieces in your legs. The stand legs I mean, not your legs.

Don't think that's an option, afaIk, Paul and Clem live at almost opposite ends of that mudflat off the Belgian coast...

Paul, check the angle of the stand when deployed, at a guess, a properly working stand is at about 15-20? from vertical.  Failing any quick fixes, you could always carry a length of 4x2 in your hip pocket.

piet

 

[Haggis]

Greetings from the mudflat. Home of the lesser-witted Island Monkey.

4x2 in the hip pocket - good idea Piet, esp as my lady suggests a little more wood in my trousers would be a good thing.

Thanks for the centre stand info chaps. I looks like a combination of things. Sligh bush/stand pivot wear + slight deformation of stand-stop + slight denting of frame tube abutment point + Avon Roadriders. I have fashioned some half round cuffs to go around the frame tube and bring things back to serviceable for Breganze. A bodge for sure (including JB weld!), but if it lasts 2,500 miles I'll be smiling. Stand iteslf looks straight and proper.

I know that Roadriders are quite big on profile as I had to shave some mm off the Jota's front mudguard screws when RR were fitted - the RR rubbed away quite nicely and formed a neat  groove until I noticed.

After Breganze I feel a trip to Clem's welding emporium may be on the cards. But as a mech eng, I really want to craft an adjustable stop, and thus waste more hours of my life on something wonderful that is immediately redundant.

Todays shenanigans are rear brake, which was stiff and one shoe would not retract. I thought 1 spring had broken but opening it up I found the inner pivots are full of dead grease, mixed with brake dust. Stiff as teenagers....

 

[Haggis]

I love the green book advice on the Dynamo belt - change every 25,000 miles. Thats what I call a service interval.
This must be the 2nd belt, as the bike has ca 50k on it 

Hello new boy, we're off to Italy soon..

Fork oil was fun. Took out drain screws - nothing came out. Eh? No oil? Didn't feel that bad on first ride. Poked a bit of wire in and so disturbed the huge mass of sediment nestling at the bottom of the forks, suprisingly clean oil came out. At least the sediment wasnt moving around! Nice an compacted. A proper flush and all is well. Dirtiest fork gunge I've ever seen.