The Weakest Link?

The Sock

The Sock

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Having established (ruined) my credentials with the 3CL stamping question, I'll wait to be schooled on this one, too.
Anyone seen one of these, I sure as 'hit haven't, before? Every roller plate has holes in both sides! I thought I was hallucinating when I first noticed daylight shining through the chain.
I have seen stupid, lightening holes, weakening structures on many bikes, but nothing like this.The Weakest Link.jpg
 
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Yeah, that is stupid- the proper approach are lighter/thinner 520 chain and sprockets as used on modern superbikes (but getting 520 sprockets for a Laverda would be an issue).
 
Hard to imagine that a previous owner would go to so much trouble - perhaps a chain supplier was providing such chain at some time?

Front and rear 520 sprockets for the Laverda hubs are available, for example check Wagner's site and parts lists, I had to get some made for the Grimeca rear hub.
 
The Sock said:
Having established (ruined) my credentials with the 3CL stamping question, I'll wait to be schooled on this one, too.
Anyone seen one of these, I sure as ''it haven't, before?
I have seen stupid, lightening holes, weakening structures on many bikes, but nothing like this.
View attachment 98354
Click to expand...



Teddy, ,if you want 520 sprockets on your Laverda, turn down the 530.
You asked a while back about points. I haven't bought any in donkeys years, I have plenty of stock to last me out.
Beru made points that fit, and it seems that Bosch can be found. 1754410274631.jpeg

1754410155529.jpeg
 
Paul Marx said:
Teddy, ,if you want 520 sprockets on your Laverda, turn down the 530.
You asked a while back about points. I haven't bought any in donkeys years, I have plenty of stock to last me out.
Beru made points that fit, and it seems that Bosch can be found. View attachment 98360

View attachment 98359
Click to expand...
Hard to read the BERU part number which claims to match the original Bosch part, please supply.

Does it directly replace the Bosch two piece originals or need modifications like the substitutes - is a picture of the BERU part out of the box possible?
 
Sir Sidney Ruffdiamond said:
The Suzuki wheel conversion use a 520 sprocket combo on my Corsa - came from Piet i believe
Click to expand...
Yes, it did... :)

Nothing unusual finding holes in chain link side plates. As long as the tension rating meets requirements, nothing to niggle about. Good way to save some considerable weight. See Enuma chains, also offered in a multitude of colours, for those that need that sort of stuff. Still rated at 4000kg.

www.kettenmax.de

Kette ENUMA 520 MVXZ2 / 520MVXZ2 Quadra-X-Ring 108 Glieder metallic Farbe

Kette ENUMA 520 MVXZ2 / 520MVXZ2 Quadra-X-Ring super verstärkt mit 108 Gliedern metallic Farben Eigenschaften der Motorrad-Kette mit herausragenden…
www.kettenmax.de www.kettenmax.de

piet
 
arancia said:
Hard to read the BERU part number which claims to match the original Bosch part, please supply.

Does it directly replace the Bosch two piece originals or need modifications like the substitutes - is a picture of the BERU part out of the box possible?
Click to expand...
There you are.
1754412439758.jpeg
They look like this.
I haven't fitted a set of these yet since I doubt that I even change the points every 50 000 km and I only have two machines running points at the moment.
1754412541010.jpeg
Now, I need to go and practice my boom-tchika-boom on Folsom prison blues.
Paul
 
The Weakest Link> Definitely a chain with a Keeper Link using a clip. I ran an "O" or "X" - Ring link 530 and 630 Japanese chains oddly called a "KIWI" chain that will last for years with a little clearance filing in the out put cavity of the tranny because they are wider and hopefully will not rub the rear tire. With constant cleaning and using a silicon lube that Clip Link is still a constant danger - Always inspect that Link every time you get off the bike and carry spares.

You can buy a tool that will permanently link the chain to a specific length but when it comes to maintenance breaking a permanent link is rather a hassle.
 
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Modern sport bikes all use a riveted master link and a special rivet tool “mushrooms out” the ends of the studs for a permanent joint similar to the rest of the chain. I’m assuming that the master link circlip on my 60 HP SF2 is sufficient but I do check it regularly. One brand of chains use an “X” master link that,s supposedly better than a standard master link w circlip. turning down old 530 sprockets is pointless since new sprockets are needed if a new 520 chain is installed.
 
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The Sock said:
Having established (ruined) my credentials with the 3CL stamping question, I'll wait to be schooled on this one, too.
Anyone seen one of these, I sure as 'hit haven't, before? Every roller plate has holes in both sides! I thought I was hallucinating when I first noticed daylight shining through the chain.
I have seen stupid, lightening holes, weakening structures on many bikes, but nothing like this.View attachment 98370
Click to expand...
I’ve seen that before, pretty sure it was marketed as a ‘Self lubricating’ chain.
 
My 520 Tsubaki VX only came with a split link, but to fit it you need to basically press on the outer plate using the special tool (the same one that peens the rivets) before you can even think about fitting the spring clip - enough RWHP to test it but I have absolute confidence it will never fail. And never had a spring clip link fail on any of the chains my SF saw over the decades.
 
Piranha: No such thing as a self lubricating chain. I believe Honda claimed it true on one of their dirt bikes were users neglected to clean their chain regularly and Honda dropped the promotion ;o)
 
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Piranha: I agree "0" ring chains lubed with Paraffin or Silicon are long lasting. Aside from a little surgery in the out tranny cavity for clearance - You still have to keep them clean. Although heavier, they are hell a lot better then Barrel Chains ;o)
 
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Good luck turning down a countershaft sprocket without first annealing it. Then you need to heat treat it again after.
In my case I used an angle grinder mounted on the tool post of a lathe. Grinding save the annealing/rehardeding
 
Laverda SF said:
The Weakest Link> Definitely a chain with a Keeper Link using a clip. I ran an "O" or "X" - Ring link 530 and 630 Japanese chains oddly called a "KIWI" chain that will last for years with a little clearance filing in the out put cavity of the tranny because they are wider and hopefully will not rub the rear tire. With constant cleaning and using a silicon lube that Clip Link is still a constant danger - Always inspect that Link every time you get off the bike and carry spares.

You can buy a tool that will permanently link the chain to a specific length but when it comes to maintenance breaking a permanent link is rather a hassle.
Click to expand...

Couldn`t agree more Ron ........

There used to be a Laverda supplier who sold 630 chains for the 1200 with a spring clip connecting link ........ I found once after one of my regular motorway trips the clip was missing ....... It was only by chance I noticed it ....... Luckily the interference fit of the side plate meant I was able to continue at reduced pace to get back home again , but stopping to check every few miles to make sure that plate was still in place .... ( I guess I would have soon found out if it wasn`t ) ........

Carried spare clips after that , but the same thing happened again ......... I was in the habit of checking now , and fitted the spare link I had with me ......... but then thought what the hell am I doing having to check and go through all this bollocks for ......... Chain tension and alignment was as good as it was ever going to get ..........

So from then on , soft rivet links all the way ........ No problems ...... and with a 630 self luber ... ( or sealed roller link if you prefer ) ...., it got changed every 15,000 miles at the same time as the primary and cam ones ........ although I always wondered a bit about the spring clip on that cam chain ........

The heavy duty chain breaker and riveter I have used to deal with that 630 chain for breakfast ......
 
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motoddrob said:
Good luck turning down a countershaft sprocket without first annealing it. Then you need to heat treat it again after.
In my case I used an angle grinder mounted on the tool post of a lathe. Grinding save the annealing/rehardeding
Click to expand...
That's the go, Rob. I ended up with a beautiful sliver of sprocket ... perfect for a 0.005.0020 chain :cool: Actually amazing ewhat i've been able to do with the angled grinder in the tool post - can to some tricky custom stuff with rubber parts as well.
 
rocketonarail said:
Couldn`t agree more Ron ........

So from then on , soft rivet links all the way ........ No problems ...... and with a 630 self luber ... ( or sealed roller link if you prefer ) ...., it got changed every 15,000 miles at the same time as the primary and cam ones ........ although I always wondered a bit about the spring clip on that cam chain ........

The heavy duty chain breaker and riveter I have would deal with that 630 chain for breakfast ......
Click to expand...
A bit like exhaust nuts and clutch cables - some owners have nothing but trouble, others none. Weird.
 
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