Thoughts on this carb wear appreciated

Been following the development of this system for a couple of years, as well as Ignition it has some data logging that gets sent to your phone. Sydney based I think. Some clever stuff is included.

32-Bit Digital Electronic Ignitions | Hand Held Dyno

Modern automotive 32-bit processor technology for Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Ducati digital electronic ignition systems, with precision timing and Bluetooth tuning.
www.oem.digital
 
Not too sure about that Cam.. need to set slides at rest properly (6 mm drill bit normally for my 32 Dells) and then gauges are accurate and I set Monty up with them.. total reliability once done. just sometimes have to do a little adjust at start up depending on temp/air in the pit in the morning.
But as Dell Master Mark M often says.. "don't hurry them, Dells take about 20 minutes to settle.. :ROFLMAO: "
It can be a fine art, but I enjoy it.

:cool:
 
Baffled me Cam, I loved having an instrument to see the effect of adjusting the cable pull but it was crazy inaccurate in the real world on my Pantah. It's been explained as variable vacuum between the cylinders whatever that means, but they work on triples with the exact same carb.
 
Dellortoman said:
Same here Vince. I balance the Ducati and Moto Guzzi carbs by hand (not vacuum gauges). I either do it by the finger method (looking at one slide while feeling the other with a finger), or by listening for a simultaneous click as they close. For some reason, vacuum gauges seem to be unreliable with twin Dellortos.
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I've always used the same method on my 750 Laverda.

Paul
 
Wow! I get more good thoughts here on a Laverda site than on any of the Bevel Ducrappi forums. Thanks guys (y)

Coupla comments:
1. Synching the carbs: yes, I also struggle with the lightweight steel rods in my balancer. Even when damped, I find they're not easy to work with. (And even getting the damping right - not too much, not too little - is a challenge). John, you're lucky to still have a mercury set!
So I too tend to set them by hand and ear.

2. Update the ignition system: I hear yous guys, I hear you ... ;). On that:

I see Back to Classics offer a complete Silent Hektik system, but it's €475; and Stein Dinse have the Sachse at €471. The Ignitech web site doesn't list any Ducati systems, but Belt and Bevel have the box only at AU$348 (on top of which I would have to pay 20% import duties/tax, I suspect).

At the same time, I have a lead on a set of claimed low mileage, unworn carbs. But again, they're gonna cost me $500 once tax is paid.

So you can see why I'd like to be as certain as poss. as to the most likely cause of the problem :unsure:
 
Ventodue said:
Wow! I get more good thoughts here on a Laverda site than on any of the Bevel Ducrappi forums. Thanks guys (y)

Coupla comments:
1. Synching the carbs: yes, I also struggle with the lightweight steel rods in my balancer. Even when damped, I find they're not easy to work with. (And even getting the damping right - not too much, not too little - is a challenge). John, you're lucky to still have a mercury set!
So I too tend to set them by hand and ear.

2. Update the ignition system: I hear yous guys, I hear you ... ;). On that:

I see Back to Classics offer a complete Silent Hektik system, but it's €475; and Stein Dinse have the Sachse at €471. The Ignitech web site doesn't list any Ducati systems, but Belt and Bevel have the box only at AU$348 (on top of which I would have to pay 20% import duties/tax, I suspect).

At the same time, I have a lead on a set of claimed low mileage, unworn carbs. But again, they're gonna cost me $500 once tax is paid.

So you can see why I'd like to be as certain as poss. as to the most likely cause of the problem :unsure:
Click to expand...
I'd start with the ignition. Will be better whatever and will allow you to see to what extent the carbs need looking into, or not.

Paul
 
Dellortoman said:
You can still see the original machining marks in the carby slide bores, so they're probably not knackered.

I could never get my MHR Mille to idle. It was also a bugger to start sometimes, requiring a lot of cranking and tweaking the starter jet lever or accelerator pumps. It was always a hit and miss affair getting it started.

I went through the carbs many times, cleaning, adjusting, re-jetting, etc. It never got any better. Then one day I was out on a ride and one cylinder cut out. Fortunately, I was only a few km from home, so limped home on the remaining cylinder.

It turned out that one of the Bosch BTZ ignition boxes died, so I replaced the ignition system with an Ignitech. The first time I started the bike with the Ignitech was a revelation. It started instantly and settled to a nice idle. It's like a different bike now, starts easily and idles perfectly. All my carby fettling was a waste of time. What it needed was a decent spark.
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I did the total reverse of this! I DID have a faulty BTZ box, so it was better when replaced. I then fitted a REDEX ignition and genie, did the valve clearances, AND THEN rebuilt my carbs (via Ducati Paddy) and fitted new inlet stubs. Purrs like a kitten now. I had blown the carbs out with air, but I suspect the broken inlet stubs were letting air in at tick over - FINALLY!
 
Old news to many here, if air leak is suspected, careful spray application of engine start, or brake cleaner, towards the inlet stubs, while engine is running. Any change in idle rpm and you have a location to inspect.

Been covered many times here, fuel float level ( 18m/m ) is number one setting to have correct, method in setting that has also been covered. Simple right angle tool does help, in setting this crucial fuel system adjustment. HTH j.
 
Dellortoman said:
You can still see the original machining marks in the carby slide bores, so they're probably not knackered.

I could never get my MHR Mille to idle. It was also a bugger to start sometimes, requiring a lot of cranking and tweaking the starter jet lever or accelerator pumps. It was always a hit and miss affair getting it started.

I went through the carbs many times, cleaning, adjusting, re-jetting, etc. It never got any better. Then one day I was out on a ride and one cylinder cut out. Fortunately, I was only a few km from home, so limped home on the remaining cylinder.

It turned out that one of the Bosch BTZ ignition boxes died, so I replaced the ignition system with an Ignitech. The first time I started the bike with the Ignitech was a revelation. It started instantly and settled to a nice idle. It's like a different bike now, starts easily and idles perfectly. All my carby fettling was a waste of time. What it needed was a decent spark.
Click to expand...
Had the exact same issue with my 77 900SS. New ignition was a revelation!!
 
Rob said:
Why not go to Ignitech direct? Currently list TCIP4 at €164 (inc VAT) with shipping €30 (I think). Add on a wired connector plug at €8 and a USB-RS232 lead for programming
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Ta Rob - most useful (I guess I was too easily deterred by not seeing 'Ducati' on their list).

That said, I will also want to replace the pickups and they say their pickups can't be used in oil. Hmmm ... I need to contact them.
 

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Vince said:
Been following the development of this system for a couple of years, as well as Ignition it has some data logging that gets sent to your phone. Sydney based I think. Some clever stuff is included.

32-Bit Digital Electronic Ignitions | Hand Held Dyno

Modern automotive 32-bit processor technology for Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Ducati digital electronic ignition systems, with precision timing and Bluetooth tuning.
www.oem.digital
Click to expand...
'tis indeed clever stuff, Vince - way above my pay grade. But expensive ... :(

And always the same old problem: how much money to throw at these old lumps before I get too old to ride 'em/get forced off the road by the enviro-regulators?
 
Same as Cams, MHR Mille . Yours being a SSD would have an electric start ?
After fitting 2 new 40mm dellortos [ticklers] with the necessary jetting done and having the shims checked / adjusted.
A sachse ignition was fitted which smoothed out the bike from go to wo. Setting #2.
After a short initial warm up will idle happily. Mind you I did increase the idle speed a tad. Just sounds wrong when it lumps over at idle.
All this in the last 6 months.

You can buy direct from sachse who I have found very helpful and backs his product.

HTH
 
When the iis for Ducati was produced, fitted an internal temperature device inside the custom pickup i fabricated. Those big milli motors in slow/stopped traffic reached 125degress C oil temperature ( pickups run in oil splash ). That is damage to oil high temperature, least degraded. Did similar for the Laverda Triples, worst i saw was around 85C and really never moved much above 80C over extended monitoring. The temperature sensor was superfluous on a Laverda, did not follow through on main iis production.

Also fabricated an adapter plate, which allowed a very nice and plentiful used supply TEK VR single pole face pickup to replace the failed bosch items ( pole face pulling/housing deformation ), dig out some photos of the adapter, may be useful for future repairs of oem bosch pickups. More to the story...that will do today...j
 
Vince said:
Been following the development of this system for a couple of years, as well as Ignition it has some data logging that gets sent to your phone. Sydney based I think. Some clever stuff is included.

32-Bit Digital Electronic Ignitions | Hand Held Dyno

Modern automotive 32-bit processor technology for Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Ducati digital electronic ignition systems, with precision timing and Bluetooth tuning.
www.oem.digital
Click to expand...
Link looks like an advertisement for a range of T-shirts. No mention of ignition systems.

BTW, "no kickback" is nothing special. You can program an Ignitech so it won't kick back on starting. I'm a little wary of products that take a bog normal feature and highlight it as if it's something new that they've invented.
 
Thought it was me, "its coming....real soon" for the ignition section, perhaps there is a product, though a search showed nothing. Seems little sense in killing a minority market with competing ignitions. Only produced iis as Uwe Witt had trouble with very long lead times, circa 1994.

What was available for ducks was the Pederezini ( sp? ), a pic procc based single plug in module for BTZ replacement, mapped the single ignition curve for it, long story, it had a problem, huge retard glitch as it transitioned off the idle rpm, know why as it had to contend with the two stage or single stage impulse cam on the ducks VR ignition pickups. You cold crank start on the trailing edge of the cam lobe, idle it there and then switch to the leading edge for above idle rpm. The leading edge is positive going spike and the trailing edge, negative going spike.... the penny pinching that goes on in low cost ignitions is alarming to my design sensibilities. Pederezini was barely functional, yet cost a fortune over the counter..j

*** opps had the leading and trialing edge for cold crank and idle reversed.... early morning jon is better than the latter day jon... edited in text body.
 
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I have been following this for at least 2 or 3 years, the developer has a family history in long-term Holden Dealership. Arnett Holden. There are some of his systems with race teams around the world. The big selling point is telemetry and real-time data logging to your phone over a LOT of parameters. I hate that FaceArse thing, Their posts appear and disappear all the bloody time. They have tech stuff posted there somewhere, BTW I think that no Kickback is just MARKETING SPIN.
 
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