Torque settings for axles & cases

cbertozz

Hero member
Location
Australia
Sorry if I've missed an obvious repository of these numbers but can't find anywhere.

I'm adjusting rear wheel and I'd like to know what torque to apply to the axle nut.

Thanks in advance
 
Laverda SF said:
Tight very tight - Especially the swing arm hub carrier nut - You don't want one coming loose.

With respect, there's tight and then there's very tight. I know from the modern race bikes that there is such thing as TOO tight so would be great to get a proper spec if anyone has it?
 
Also, I'm used to an axle with a nut on one end only. How should I be setting up the two in relation to each other? Downloading the manual now in the hope of finding some enlightenment. Nothing in the Tuning guide to help.
 
Try for 60Ft/Lbs, I sure you will scene the torque before stripping the threads ;o)

Use stainless steel washers. They crush and embed the nut but do tend to warp and flatten out over repetitive use and should be changed at times.
 
Factory spec for M16x1,5 52-59 ft/lbs, 70-80Nm.

Definitive factory torque specs were first listed in the RGS-RGA manuals.

piet
 
SFCpiet - 52 Ft/Lbs is not enough - I had the rear wheel comes loose - It's not nice.

After adjusting the chain and aligning the wheel, tighten the hub carrier nut. For the axle, I use 2 box ends, one on each end of the shaft and turn in opposite rotation ensuring the wheel is kept aligned and axle shaft centered - It's all by feel and it's good a tight - Guess you could put a torque wrench on one side to take a reading.

For wheel alignment I measure from the swing arm pivot nuts to the rear axle shaft nuts - I don't rely much on the swing arm graduate markings.

Stainless Steel washers in good shape are important.
 
Laverda SF said:
SFCpiet - 52 Ft/Lbs is not enough - I had the rear wheel comes loose - It's not nice.

Hmm .....me thinks you were unlucky........overtightening can have its own issues esp in the hands of one without 'feel"
I torque mine to 55 ft lb's .........they are only not 8.8. or 10.9 so be careful over torquing.
Stainless washers .....now dont start me on stainless bolts and washers .......

Here ya go hope this helps .

http://electronicfilters.tpub.com/TM-10-4330-237-13P/css/TM-10-4330-237-13P_105.htm
 
sfcpiet said:
Factory spec for M16x1,5 52-59 ft/lbs, 70-80Nm.

Definitive factory torque specs were first listed in the RGS-RGA manuals.

piet

Thank you, thats what I was after. 70-80 sounds about right, what the Aprilia wheels were set to.
 
cbertozz said:
Also, I'm used to an axle with a nut on one end only. How should I be setting up the two in relation to each other? Downloading the manual now in the hope of finding some enlightenment. Nothing in the Tuning guide to help.

It certainly shouldn't matter 'one iota' whether you have one nut or two! All you are doing is pulling a variety of spacers hard up against each other in a clamp.
There should be zero side load on the bearings no matter how hard you do the nuts up.

If there is side load, then you have a spacer missing or the wrong ones and ultimately the bearings will fail.
 
SimonR501 said:
It certainly shouldn't matter 'one iota' whether you have one nut or two! All you are doing is pulling a variety of spacers hard up against each other in a clamp.
There should be zero side load on the bearings no matter how hard you do the nuts up.

If there is side load, then you have a spacer missing or the wrong ones and ultimately the bearings will fail.

Thanks. I figured it out. I just made sure left side was on securely and then held it with a spanner while I torqued the other.

Admins - would it be worth a sticky with things like Torque specs?
 
Laverda SF said:
For wheel alignment I measure from the swing arm pivot nuts to the rear axle shaft nuts - I don't rely much on the swing arm graduate markings.

Nor do I. Mainly because there aren't any markings on the swing arm.

PS:
In almost 50 years of bike ownership I've never used a torque wrench on the rear axle of any bike. For the first 10 years that was probably because I couldn't afford to buy a torque wrench. After that, I reckon my arm was pretty well calibrated to get the torque within acceptable limits.  Never had any failures due to the axle nut being too loose or too tight.

Actually, I did have one failure due to rear axle not being tight enough, but it was on a mate's bike. He'd lost his licence so I took his bike (Suzuki 500 Titan) for a test ride after he'd done a bit of maintenance, including the chain adjustment. It was all going OK until I whacked the throttle open. He hadn't tightened the rear axle, and the tension in the chain overcame the little M6 adjuster bolts and yanked the chain side of the axle forward. Rear wheel jammed solid against the swing arm and the tyre laid a black mark down the tarmac. When I got off the bike and had a look, it was carnage. The axle was bent, the chain was still in one piece but had jumped off the sprocket and was folded sideways, chain adjusters were trashed, brake hub retaining arm bent, chain guard bent. There was no way I could fix it on the side of the road. He wasn't happy when I returned on foot, but it was his own dumb fault.
 
I'm with you Dellorttoman: For FUCK sakes, I could have given you a 500 Titan with a solid rear end.

Loved my Suzuki 500 Cafe Titan. Can you believe I sold her for $250  ;o(

After your experience there probably worthless.

Do you wanna hear my experience with a loose rear wheel on a Breganzie  - ROLF
 
Damn near got killed on my mates poorly maintained Titan. Car turned in front of me and the brakes were non existant when required. Slammed into the front of EH Holden at 110kmh. Put me off Titans for ever (and riding other peoples bikes).
 
I was tightening the rear axle on my Pantah when there was a report like a gunshot and something whizzed across the shed. I wasn't giving it much welly but it was enough to snap one of the half moon alloy C pieces that cover the end of the swingarm  and the axial passes through. Shocked the hell out of me. There must be some kind of cavity where these are not solidly supported. And to top it off they are different sizes on either side of the bike, got a replacement from those GOUGING Ducati wreckers in Melbourne,just happy to find replacements.
 
Thats why I love torque specs, I at least 'know' that I'm on the money and I dont think of it any more. Going to check wheel alignment and finding the rear was only slightly better than finger tight was a shock.
 
cbertozz said:
Thats why I love torque specs, I at least 'know' that I'm on the money and I dont think of it any more. Going to check wheel alignment and finding the rear was only slightly better than finger tight was a shock.
Funny thing with torque settings is that depends on how often you get the torque wrench calibrated  :o
 
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