TPS or MAP (or both)

1200 JOTA

1200 JOTA

Senior member
Location
Australia
I'm looking for ideas, opinions and experience setting up an Ignitech profile with a set of Mikuni RS36's.

The 1200 runs well with the Ignitech (new install) so before I spend too much time 'tuning' (with no sensing) I'd planned to source a TPS (throttle position sensor) and go that route. However to engineer a linkage for the TPS (probably a lever type via a link to the throttle) seems harder and more prone to fail than to just install a remote MAP (manifold pressure / vacuum pressure) sensor via the built-in vacuum orifice on the Mikunis. This should serve the same purpose as far as the Ignitech is concerned.

The MAP is generally cheaper although a decent Bosch unit is also available which would be desirable over an aftermarket.

Any ideas? Could I just use a single vacuum port (normally blocked off and generally just used for syncing the banks) to run a MAP and any ideas as to what pressure is available ... most units measure up to 3 Bar. That would definitely simplify the plumbing and reduce the chances of leakage.

 
Some of this was done a while back by one of the Scandanavians here, the best bit of what he did was achieve apparently 60 plus MPG. That was well out there. He made a kit he was selling I think. Don't think he is around much any more, hopefully, someone will have a link. I don't remember his name.
 
Found it. Only 8 years ago, seems like last week
https://www.laverdaforum.com/forum/index.php/topic,86272.0.html
 
... thanks for the re-direct!

'cape' really went to town but so far I've just fleabay'd a genuine / new Denso vacuum sensor for a Honda CRV for $15 and with a few wires and a piece of tubing might get some results to report on.
 
Will is doing this on his 120 jota at the moment. He has been in touch with ignitech and is running their prototype software.  He is rarely on the forum, best to contact him via email. 
Secretary@clublaverdansw.org.au
 
Just for interest, the pics are representative of the units I'm gonna try ... both have 5v - 3 pin connections for the TCIP to interpret.
I guess I might be heading towards having to install a 'check engine' light (won't ever happen) but if I can set a profile that retains the original aggressiveness of the Laverda without too much fur and also a 'touring' profile ... I'll be happy!

I do understand that many old bike riders love the simplicity and bullet-proof nature of these lovely machines but I've found that just about every 'older' model of car or bike benefits from a change in ignition - be it points or coils or a black box. Both Nortons have had a Boyer, the Alfa had a CDI and the Aston had optical triggers, black box and a modern coil. Unless you're a masochist we all like better GO better STOP and better RIDE.
 

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And for those interested - I've confirmed that the TCIP4 (88) can be flashed to (96) ... where I ride it should be beneficial to select a 'town mode' or 'open-road mode'.
 
Will has put a switch on the handlebars to choose between 2 different curves.
When will was designing the curve for the twin plug we contemplated a switch on the handlebars but just kept dialing back the advance 1 degree at a time till it stopped pinging. Last weekend was its first real ride and it pulled strong through to 7000 so I think we have the curve pretty good. Lot different to a standard curve
 
martymoose said:
Will has put a switch on the handlebars to choose between 2 different curves.
When will was designing the curve for the twin plug we contemplated a switch on the handlebars but just kept dialing back the advance 1 degree at a time till it stopped pinging. Last weekend was its first real ride and it pulled strong through to 7000 so I think we have the curve pretty good. Lot different to a standard curve
Click to expand...

So you need much less advance. Care to share any figures? I find this stuff extremely interesting!

bazzee
 
The things that stick in your brain. I remember when Doug first built it he and John Wilson designed a curve for Johns EI that it was fitted with. From memory full advance was 24deg, there was some comment about staging the 2nd plug spark slightly later but I don't think that happened. I rode it a while ago for a day and it went Impressively well, I didnt rap it out at all but it did have really nicely set up suspension. I expected it would be rock hard but no, it had that firm but compliant feel I have been looking for on mine. It did have 2 issues that were easy fixes, it had only a right side mirror and that left me feeling very vulnerable for no left side vision and a start button in the middle of the dash. If the engine stopped in traffic in the gear you had to find neutral to restart it because holding the clutch left no way to reach the start button, I seriously considered pocking it with my nose at one point, helmet stopped that. I really enjoyed riding it that day, I hope all Marty's work allows the bike to reach its full pertensal, and then another ride would be good.
 
Just to be clear, that 24deg comment was specifically on Martys 6 spark plug bike. Don't try that on any other bike on my 100% idiot opinion, or not good things might happen.
 
Maximum advance is 24 degrees but the shape of the curve in the mid range needed work. It?s on will?s Laptop so I don?t have the figures, but it was more flat than on a Jota where maximum is reached quite early. The last change we made was pulling another degree out around 3-4000. Easy to do on the ignitech software. This bike has Doug?s custom made cams, so you can?t compare it to another cam. I love the axtells in the 3c, the way it starts to bark at 4500, the a11?s in the Jota start to make noise at 5500, and riding wills 120, Jota cams, it all gets very busy at 6500, but that?s when I?m really trying, good for the race track but in my opinion no good for the road, or longevity of pistons, rings, rods, etc. if I was going to change the a11?s in the Jota, I would go for the axtell(Ricky racer) grind.

Funnily the new ignition curve on the 3cl has it running too rich now. More playing....
 
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