triple alternator help needed

CLEMTOG

CLEMTOG

Hero member
I have charging problems on TOG
(1200 BTZ triple)
I have removed and junked an Electrexworld reg/rectifier, since the red light was not able to work with it and I should have done it years ago, she let me down (and in her birth town as well) this summer, when the battery died, with just enough power for a bump start and a 5km ride to my hotel in the dark, saw it off completely, if that red light had been working I would have received an earlier warning of impending doom, so the reg/rectifier is gone, and has been replaced with an original Bosch unit, which I know is working well, and now the red light works, but does not go out when I run the motor, nor does the voltage change at the battery from static, or with engine running, so still not charging, I have "physically"  looked at the alternator and its wiring up to the connector block and can see no ills,

my question is this (be gentle with me since I don't like, and am not good with electrickery what method should I use to check the output of this single phase unit, I have instrumentation available, what should I see across the yellow/yellow black cables at the chock block (rear of fuel tank) both with the engine static and with it running at say 3500rpm?

many thanks
CLEM
 
Don't forget to put your multimeter on an AC Volt scale to measure the alternator output.

If you're getting something in the vicinity of 30 V (AC) or more, you should have enough to charge the battery via the RR.

If you have good AC volts, but the DC voltage doesn't increase above static battery voltage when running, then you have a problem with the RR. Either the unit itself isn't working or its wiring is dodgy.
 
Trust you are not running an Odyssey AGM battery Clem,as Keith pointed out to me,unfortunately after the fact, they are no use with single phase .Went back to lead acid.

Also if you have to go back to Electrex use a Sparkbright charging light www.sparkbright.co.uk cheap and easy to install direct to your battery.

Shaun
 
I would like to help Clem, but knows 'uck all about it mate :D anyhow, just splash the cash, junk it for a proper modern charging and ignition system, yours has done its time?
Fraternally yours,
 
I don't know what you mean Nick, its only just clocked 208,000, barely run in, so tonight looking for 30 volts ac across the two yellows from the alternator (the doubled up ones)
 
Amazed the pick ups are not brittle and in bits! Remember how you diagnosed when mine were shorting after piston meltdown? Did you not have piston meltdown not so long ago?!
 
the pick up wires look really good Nick, nice a cool looking and as new, the piston meltdown directly under the spark plug and burned a nice neat hole in two of them with the third looking like it was on its way as well, I believe this was due to a) worn carb slides and b) me being too mean and running too far on the "economical" side, I now have some very low mileage (less than 10,000 miles) RGS carbs and they are jetted very much on the safe side, economy is now not a problem since long runs and commuting are done on the 60 or even 70 MPG Pan European.
CLEM
 
well OK, all is now good
checked the alternator cables with my multi meter set on ac volts 0-200 and at about 3500rpm got something like 28 volts, so that looked good, which also proves the wiring that cant be seen inside the engine chest and under the starter, physically checked all the other cables from the chock block to the loom, and then the loom to the reg/rect, and onto the fuse block, all seemed good, but a continuity test across one 25 amp fuse showed nothing, so I removed it, and found the solder tape laying alongside the bullet point end, new fuse, bend the retaining tang for a bit more pressure and hey presto, charging light goes out and battery voltage rises from 12.8 engine off to 14.3 engine running, so all the grief just for a loose fuse. I can now replace the alternator lock washer, its polished cover, put the tank and side panels on and I am only a week late for the distinguished gentleman's ride last Sunday which I did on the pan (600 bikes blocking Borough Market and then circulating central London, in aid of prostate cancer)

those fuses have given me a bit of hassle in the past, so I would like to swap the fuse carrier box for a blade type, can anyone recommend a suitable 4 fuse type, automotive perhaps, what have you lot been using?

thanks for the wise words cam, I would have forgotten to put the meter onto AC, that might have damaged the thing, and its a nice rubber clad one I used when I was commissioning heating/aircon.


YAH BOOH SUCKS NICKDAV7, still no wizzo ignition/charger for me (yet)
 
CLEMTOG said:
the pick up wires look really good Nick, nice a cool looking and as new, the piston meltdown directly under the spark plug and burned a nice neat hole in two of them with the third looking like it was on its way as well, I believe this was due to a) worn carb slides and b) me being too mean and running too far on the "economical" side, I now have some very low mileage (less than 10,000 miles) RGS carbs and they are jetted very much on the safe side, economy is now not a problem since long runs and commuting are done on the 60 or even 70 MPG Pan European.
CLEM
Click to expand...

Very much doubt that worn slides would cause piston meltdown.  Holing pistons generally happens at WOT under full load, the slide is so far up the mixing chamber that its' condition is irrelevant.  Worn needles and needle jets don't count either, these would allow too much fuel through rather than too little...

It usually boils down to leaning due to incorrect float height, too small main jets or an air leak on the carb side.  Ignition side, it could be incorrect ignition timing or incorrect plug heat range.

piet
 
those fuses have given me a bit of hassle in the past, so I would like to swap the fuse carrier box for a blade type, can anyone recommend a suitable 4 fuse type, automotive perhaps, what have you lot been using?

I'll ask Ally Clem..It's something I am thinking of too...

joe
 
Bad photo sorry but any auto retailer will have one of these which we've used on many a lavatory...http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/SCA-Automotive-Fuse-Box-4-Way-Blade.aspx?pid=120458&menuFrom=40105#Cross
 
Hella makes some nice single fuse blocks using the ATO blade fuse, part number HL87134 Fuseholder, Blade Type..probably used for installing Hella driving lamps.  Very compact and easy to install. You can use those ATO fuses with a LED built in that glows when blown so you can identify a blown fuse quickly..especially at night.
led-fuse.jpg


87134_1.jpg


About $2.50 per each single fuse block here in the USA. Get four and they slip lock together as one unit and can be mounted with screws.

Installed on my bike without any issues years ago.
 
Similar from j Car http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SZ2042&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=969#1

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productResults.asp?whichpage=1&pagesize=10&keywords=blade+fuse+led&form=KEYWORD
 
Well done Clem! Very satisfying to actually solve the problem...makes sense to change the fuse box, so if you are getting those funky Hella jobbies, get one for me? On my BMW I was looking at You tube stuff to see how to wire in satnav .simples into fuse box to say headlight....until looking for that.turns out it's canbus no bleeding fuses at all.had to actually splash cash for dealer to do it as Keith has terrified me with tales of what happens if you so much as put a wrong light bulb in..computer say no go!
 
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