Triple cam cover removal

Rob said:
Have you removed the cam chain tensioner blade? It is then possible to keep the chain clear of the sprocket to align the timing marks.

Assuming the cam chain pedestal hasn't been removed from the bottom of the crankcase then the cam chain will stay engaged with the crank sprocket.

So with the cam chain clear of the cam sprocket teeth you can set the crank to TDC. The ends of the chain should be approximately equal length at this point. I'm assuming you split the cam chain with the split link midway between the cam sprockets. If so, you will be replacing it in exactly the same position.

I use a 11mm spanner on one of the cam sprocket bolts to help turn it against valve spring pressure and align the vertical mark....spanner positioned to preferably turn the bolt clockwise rather than anti for obvious reasons. Assuming you have replaced the cam with the timing mark on the sprocket somewhere near top vertical you shouldn't have valves hitting pistons as you turn the cam to fully align the mark.

Don't remove the lengths of wire from the cam chain ends until you have replaced the split link.
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Hi Rob.

Thanks for the help. NO, I didn't, I merely slackened off the tensioner. I can see that this would make things harder. Is it easily removed now? I get twitchy on anything that has the potential to drop into the engine. I already had a narrow escape with one of the cam location shims (thankfully, I followed the books tip and stuffed any gap with paper!)

Also, when I removed the split link (in between the sprockets), the crank wasn't at TDC (or at least I didn't check that bit), and therefore, the timing marks didn't appear to be where I expected them to be. I marked the sprockets in their position anyway and cracked on with the job.

I'm thinking I've had some major learning for next time I do this!
 
Dellortoman said:
That's strange. I don't recall having to take the tensioner blade out of my triple. Maybe my memory is playing tricks.
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Yes, with everything tightened down, it's not possible to move the cam independently of the chain - on mine anyway!
 

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JO55 said:
Hi Rob.

Thanks for the help. NO, I didn't, I merely slackened off the tensioner. I can see that this would make things harder. Is it easily removed now? I get twitchy on anything that has the potential to drop into the engine. I already had a narrow escape with one of the cam location shims (thankfully, I followed the books tip and stuffed any gap with paper!)

Also, when I removed the split link (in between the sprockets), the crank wasn't at TDC (or at least I didn't check that bit), and therefore, the timing marks didn't appear to be where I expected them to be. I marked the sprockets in their position anyway and cracked on with the job.

I'm thinking I've had some major learning for next time I do this!
Click to expand...
Next time, turn the engine around until the cam marks are in position AND the split link is in the middle.
You can feed the chain around the crank sprocket to remedy but best done on the bench with the engine tilted so as the cylinder block is vertical.

Paul
 
I've never removed the cam tensioner blade to do mine.
If I'm understanding you correctly, you've "calculated" the shim sizes.
Once you've successfully re-assembled the motor, turn it over several times and re-check the clearances to check if you were right, before running the engine.
 
Paul Marx said:
Next time, turn the engine around until the cam marks are in position AND the split link is in the middle.
You can feed the chain around the crank sprocket to remedy but best done on the bench with the engine tilted so as the cylinder block is vertical.

Paul
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Lesson learnt!
 
The Sock said:
I've never removed the cam tensioner blade to do mine.
If I'm understanding you correctly, you've "calculated" the shim sizes.
Once you've successfully re-assembled the motor, turn it over several times and re-check the clearances to check if you were right, before running the engine.
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I imagine, if I'd started in the right place to start with (ie. everything lined up and the split link correctly placed instead of just the latter) I wouldn't need to either.

Yes, that's the plan. Yep, "calculated" as in worked out the difference between what it is, and what it should be and adjusted the shim size accordingly.

Cheers
 
your installed shims can only be checked accurately once the chain is reconnected and the tension adjusted as well, the school boy theory will very soon surprise you, I use a pair of (shortened) long nose pliers to pull the chain together, accross the gap between the sprockets,the noses of which are adjusted so that on one side, the pliers pull the chain ends together and on the other side, there is enough left to half install the link, pushing the pliers out, it is not neccessarry to have a spanner on the inlet sprocket bolt if you have A11 cams, this is only required if you have 4C cams.
NEW SPRING LINK EVERY TIME, but not new link and side plate.
CLEM
 
And of course, stuff plenty of rags, newspaper, toilet paper down the cam chain tunnel when putting the spring link in.

Paul
 
The Sock said:
I've always found it easier to join the chain on the exhaust sprocket, as per the handbook illustration:

View attachment 61913View attachment 61915
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Thanks. Yes, agreed. I always use this method when fitting new drive chains and sprockets. It aligns everything nicely with a simple bit of downward pressure. I'm new to playing with cams and valves having spent most of my tinkering days on things with expansion chambers and reed valves!
 
CLEMTOG said:
your installed shims can only be checked accurately once the chain is reconnected and the tension adjusted as well, the school boy theory will very soon surprise you, I use a pair of (shortened) long nose pliers to pull the chain together, accross the gap between the sprockets,the noses of which are adjusted so that on one side, the pliers pull the chain ends together and on the other side, there is enough left to half install the link, pushing the pliers out, it is not neccessarry to have a spanner on the inlet sprocket bolt if you have A11 cams, this is only required if you have 4C cams.
NEW SPRING LINK EVERY TIME, but not new link and side plate.
CLEM
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Agreed. I only did a quick check out of interest and intended a full clearance check once all was connected and rotating nicely.

Sounds like an ingeniously simple way of pulling the chain together, although fitting it on a sprocket sounds just as easy if you can get it in that position. Yes, 4C cams are a bit lumpier and require a bit more 'persuasion' to move I imagine!

I think my error has been to not think through the starting point. I thought 'oh, my link doesn't line up where it should do with everything lined up' not thinking to keep rotating the engine until it did (thinking it would align in the same place every time. I now realise it doesn't). We live and learn, and I won't be making the same mistake next time ... hopefully :unsure: Thanks
 
Paul Marx said:
And of course, stuff plenty of rags, newspaper, toilet paper down the cam chain tunnel when putting the spring link in.

Paul
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Indeed! 'What sort of idiot would drop something down the gap to the crankcase' I thought as I read the section in the Green book on filling them with rags. How glad I was as I watched the cam location shim (that I'd forgotten was there) drop from the bearing cap and nestle on the paper roll I'd stuffed down the gaping hole earlier. At least one bullet I've dodged on my maiden Vv. clearance voyage.
 
Cam location shim?
are yours doweled type or 22mm square abutment type?
or do you mean the C ring end float control?
CLEM
 
JO55 said:
Indeed! 'What sort of idiot would drop something down the gap to the crankcase' I thought as I read the section in the Green book on filling them with rags. How glad I was as I watched the cam location shim (that I'd forgotten was there) drop from the bearing cap and nestle on the paper roll I'd stuffed down the gaping hole earlier. At least one bullet I've dodged on my maiden Vv. clearance voyage.
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I imagine that most of us have dropped something down that cam chain tunnel.

Paul
 
I once had to rotate a v8 marine engine 64 times to get everything where it was supposed to be . Memory is a bit dodgy at the mo but was definitely a lot for cranking by hand.
 
paulincayman said:
I once had to rotate a v8 marine engine 64 times to get everything where it was supposed to be . Memory is a bit dodgy at the mo but was definitely a lot for cranking by hand.
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:eek: 64 times.

I can’t believe I’m about to give this tip away ..... hope it helps.

Remove all oil from the sump plug, paint it flouro orange, once dry refit to the sump. Now rotate the engine. When the orange sump plug is pointing down, stop rotating the engine. You have found the engines ideal position.
 
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