Triple Charging Question(s)

Simon Yates

Senior member
A question from an electrical numpty for you. :-\
This is discussing the connection between the alternator (three wires) and the voltage regulator (four wires) - see image.
Presulably the yellow connects to the yellow.
The White/Blue connects to the White/Blue.
This leaves the Green/White from the alternator to bullet connect to the White/Red from the VR.
Could the reason it is not charging be that the red wire from the VR is currently in 'free space'.  Should this go to earth?

Is an adequate alternator check to se if the voltage across the battery (engine at 2000 rpm) is between 13 to 14V?

 

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Hi Simon

Assuming you still have the OE reg/rect, then yes, that red wire being disconnected will explain the no charge situation.  It should be connected to Battery +  Please also have a look for the black/white wire from the reg / rect and confirm it goes to frame earth for the battery negative connection.

You can check charging by measuring battery volts: you should get 14.3-14.4v across the battery terminals at 3,000 rpm, although it may take up to 30 secs to rise to that. It shouldn't exceed 14.5v at any revs. At 2,000 things are a bit less certain. To properly check alternator output you should really be looking at AC volts across the alternator wiring upstream of the reg/rect, but it's a pretty reliable device, so I wouldn't bother unless the battery charge voltage is low.

Those bullet connectors look as though they have been getting warm. They carry full load from the alternator all the time the engine is running.  Worth replacing.  Or at the very least, cleaning the contacts and ensuring firm engagement
 
Rob
Thank you.  I worked out last night that the red should go the the battery plus but will also follow your other suggestions.
For some obscure reason I thought it was a wire made redundant by removing the original ignition system.
That question was only one degree of difficulty above asking where you put air in the tyres. ::) ::)
 
Connected the red wire - still no charging.
Extended the black / white wire to earth on the battery - 14.7 volts so charging. :D
The powder coated frame was preventing a good earth.
Thanks Rob
 
My Audi gives 14.42 V.

Suggests your voltmeter is accurate. 14.75 is right at the upper limit.  I'd check the fusebox and 25A fuse for decent connections  (clean contacts; wiring OK & strong spring action to retain the fuse).  If all good, personally I'd look at replacing the RR. Before you do, just check the standing battery volts (battery fully charged and left for 12 hours) - should be 12.7v or a bit more, depending on type. 
 
Simon Y said:
Rob.
My Audi gives 14.42 V.
The Jota 14.75 V.  Does that mean that the VR needs replacing?
Depends on the battery type you are using. If you are using a lead acid battery then 14.75 is OK
If you are using a modern AGM batteries then you are looking for somewhere under that say 13.8 too 14.4
So if you are still using a lead acid type battery then you will be fine.

if you are using a modern type AGM or lithium etc then you got to consider changing it out I much like Mosfet types these days.. way better tech.

I'd also like to second the comment about  sell the emission cheating, faulty airbag equipped Audi as they are the new Volvo...... (bolt)
 
Well, my original ND voltage regulator on the SFC1000 went Same happened to my 3 former buzuki's. All replaced with Schnabel model voltage regulators.

A garage neighbour just got a socalled motorcycle. A chinese flimblim 250 or 350 twin sort of chopper. He seriously call it a Harley. He paid 600 gbp second hand with 412 kns on the moter. I duess it's then time to scrap it and press another new one out of the bouble plastic package... Funny all the same ;)

Kind regards,
jacques
 
Brett said:
I'd also like to second the comment about  sell the emission cheating, faulty airbag equipped Audi as they are the new Volvo...... (bolt)

Love my emission cheating Q5 which does not have faulty airbags.  :-*
 
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