Triple Crank Seal

JO55

Full member
Location
Cornwall
Good Morning All,

I'm in the early stages of fitting a Redax Ignition/Genny system. As advised in the instructions, I've taken the opportunity to check out the crank seal behind. There appears to be a tiny amount of oil/moisture in the base of the case, although I can't see a seeping point. I've seen elsewhere that oil can flow in from the top of the cases via the starter motor if you've had a little spillage when filling with oil. I had a very minor spillage once, but it is possible this has happened.

Anyway, I thought I'd might as well put a seal in for good measure. Are there any thoughts on what's best here? I've bought a proprietary 35x47x7 single lip, Viton rotary shaft seal. I'd generally assume a seal is a seal, is a seal as long as the material is resistant to the media being sealed. However, before I fit it, I wondered if there are some absolute do's, or don't when selecting/fitting a seal - I know that many will have experience on here.

Thanks in advance.
Julian
 
Thanks Red. I saw that option on your instructions, but there wasn't a Viton option on the site I was looking, so plumped for the std width. Hopefully, I don't live to regret it.

Great kit, and instructions by the way!
 
No need to use Viton seals. An intact sealing surface on the sleeve nut would be far more important. Also check for wear at the end of the sleeve, a sign that the nut was once loose, oil can then seep though the threads... Similar wear will then also be found on the starter clutch housing, allowing the (usually battered) hex of the sleeve nut to come dangerously close to the seal, hence the recommended use of the narrower seal. Dressing the starter clutch housing and shimming, along with a new sleeve nut brings everything back in line.

piet
 
No need to use Viton seals. An intact sealing surface on the sleeve nut would be far more important. Also check for wear at the end of the sleeve, a sign that the nut was once loose, oil can then seep though the threads... Similar wear will then also be found on the starter clutch housing, allowing the (usually battered) hex of the sleeve nut to come dangerously close to the seal, hence the recommended use of the narrower seal. Dressing the starter clutch housing and shimming, along with a new sleeve nut brings everything back in line.

piet
Thanks for the info Piet. So far, all looks in very good condition.
 
Just to mention, was suffering from a leaking seal - replaced with the standard width with a new retaining nut. Then had a leak from the engine casing itself (after some 20 km), took everything apart again and tightened up the casing first before the retaining nut - yet to test out. Maybe I was too heavy handed doing up the retaining nut before - would be interested to hear your experience.
 
Back
Top