Triple filter O ring.

One thing about Breganzie "O" rings is that they are European Metric Designed - NOT: Japanese, American or say International Metric - They are specifically European Metric as for all the Nuts and Bolts on a Breganzie.

Don't use an International Metric "O" Ring then sandwich the Bake-A-Lite Heat Spacer between the Aluminum Intake Manifold and Head or you will BREAK the outer edge of the Baka-A-Lite casing .

If you can't find the correct European Metric "0" Ring in spec, I suggest you use a Crank Case liquid sealer.

A slightly oversized "0" ring can BREAK not only a Bake-A-Lite but also an Aluminum outer edge of a casing.

If you happen do this damage - Metal EPOXY works to repair the damaged part then and use an Arobotic case sealant such as 3M.

Been there done that ;o)

In your case if it's just the bottom of the Metal Oil Filter Basket - Any flat circular oil resistant gasket that fits will work.

For ME I don't bother with that Gasket - It could be just one more foreign element that might disintegrate and BLOCK the Oil Flow or crack and allow more crap through the filter - Breganzies want clean 15x45W DINO oil - Clean the Filter and Change your Oil every season or Twice a season depending how much you use her - That Gasket is dangerous from my point of view ;o)

By the way DO NOT use Synthetic Oil - Breganzie clutches HATE IT!

Schell DURON 15x40W was my favorite oil for my Breganzie but hard to find in Canada (Honey Oil in Colour) - Love the smell when pushing her !

Black Mobile Truckers Delvac 1300 DINO 15W40 does the job but doesn't look or smell as nice ;o)

The Biggest crap I captured in that metal mesh oil filter was a few Teflon chips from my Cam Chain Tensor and few metal glitter on the Magnetic Bolt I tapped and installed in the Oil Filter Plate.

Has any one tried AMSOIL in their Bereganzie - LOL ;o)

Basically I do NOT recommend using that GASKET.
 
Last edited:
Honestly from your title Feed, I did not know what problem your trying to solve, whether it's or not a gasket issue - But I can say 99% our Breganzies owners don't use that gasket.
 
Laverda SF said:
Honestly from your title Feed, I did not know what problem your trying to solve, whether it's or not a gasket issue - But I can say 99% our Breganzies owners don't use that gasket.
Click to expand...
I think I was very clear with my question. I am asking only about the O ring for the oil strainer on the bottom of a triple motor. Not about any other gasket or O ring anywhere else on a Laverda. The 750's are different, they use a gasket for the oil strainer, not an O ring.
 
Jap "Phillips" heads are not Phillips heads Vince, they have their own standard. The main reason one sees so many chewed up crosshead screws outside of Japan. I too cursed the things, until I had the opportunity to work with proper screwdrivers to the JIS standard, what a huge difference such a small difference makes...

piet
 
It only took me 40 years to learn that JIS info Piet, the usual solution back in the day was one of those 25mm dia Impact screwdrivers you would hit with a hammer to avoid chowing out Japanese engine case screws, it was put down to fixings made out of Cheese and not incorrect tip types. Funnily enough, something similar happened in the building game with the confusion between Posidrive and Philips heads. The latest industry joke is Deck Screws that use 3mm dia square drives, they work great at not stripping their heads out but it's easy to buy the wrong box if you don't look really hard.
 
sfcpiet said:
Jap "Phillips" heads are not Phillips heads Vince, they have their own standard. The main reason one sees so many chewed up crosshead screws outside of Japan. I too cursed the things, until I had the opportunity to work with proper screwdrivers to the JIS standard, what a huge difference such a small difference makes...

piet
Click to expand...
I’m guilty of mashing Jap cross head screws. My poor old K2’s points cover screws were a sad blight on my supposed butchering, until I worked out the difference.

There are Chinese manufacturers that use the same screw heads… god bless ‘em.
 
About a year ago I finally invested in a set of JIS screw drivers a month before selling my old Z900. This left me Japless for the first time in 35 years.
 
Then there is Posidrive...

Bruce, Just installed a filter/stainer tower with "rubber" Oring, from the 1001 piece kit i have here for all manner of Orings. In that location a good fit is a plus, no oil on the back tyre for jonny.. if slightly over size ( not too much ) wont be a problem, compression set being the main issue over time.

To others i refer them to the many pdf on how to engineer correct Orings to recess profiles, it is not hard for basic Orings. FWIW i just renewed an Oring on the input shaft to an auto tranny ( no tranny jokes if you please ), the engineering house i use, buys only imperial size Orings for the requests like mine, found very close, bought sizes either side on the suitable Oring, 2 of each, 6 in all, $1.50 the lot... narrow profile for this particular Oring.

Then there is the Oil seal with left and Right handed Helix, get the standard type and leaks are assured... as i suspected and found out. TC profile. HTH j
 
Vince said:
It only took me 40 years to learn that JIS info Piet, the usual solution back in the day was one of those 25mm dia Impact screwdrivers you would hit with a hammer to avoid chowing out Japanese engine case screws, it was put down to fixings made out of Cheese and not incorrect tip types. Funnily enough, something similar happened in the building game with the confusion between Posidrive and Philips heads. The latest industry joke is Deck Screws that use 3mm dia square drives, they work great at not stripping their heads out but it's easy to buy the wrong box if you don't look really hard.
Click to expand...
Pozidrive was a big improvement over Phillips, but seems to have been largely restricted to woodworking. Definite move now to Torx drive in the woodworking scene, at least here in Europe. Guess the advantages Torx offers in mass-production mechanical assembly has been recognised by chippies. :)

O-ring joints are usually quite forgiving, often allowing one to err slightly in all directions. But, as Ron has pointed out, they can easily break components if chosen too thick. If sealing surfaces are smooth and flat, o-rings only require a couple of 0.10mm compression to seal reliably.

This filter flange had been cracked before blasting, but I missed the damage prior to re-assembly. A new correct o-ring put enough pressure on it to make the damage very obvious! Needless to say, I now inspect these very closely before re-fitting!

piet

cracking up.JPG
 
As you say Piet, worked for a global company, USA high end tech actually used Posidrive ( Posidriv ) across many applications. Was when i first came across the fastener and purpose tooling, to assemble and disassemble.

Alarming picture of failed casting there, wonder if also "bit of everything" casting material, machining of groove accuracy, gross mismatch of O ring cross section ( highly probable, its easy to have fat Orings in that diameter, not so easy in reduced cross sectional diameter ).

Upper housing has failed, not the lower bulky material, as i see it. j
 
Did the same on an inlet manifold years back, thought I would do the right thing and use a Vitron O ring instead of the completely crushed original one and that turned out to be too thick and snapped a mounting ear off. It's a painful message to learn.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top