Triple swing arm

Vince said:
I don't own a toque wrench. My uncalibrated wrist probably went well over that, I have never replaced those bearings but I don't detect any play and over the years have been diligent with grease application. Not even sure whether there are bushings or needle rollers. Would overtightening produce drag affecting rear suspension operation? BTW I just replaced the grease cartridge in my grease gun for the second time with the boat yeard waterproof trailer grease I like and made the same balls up I did last time. You're supposed to pull the spring-loaded plunger back and lock it off before inserting it into the gun. I forgot again and ended up with grease everywhere, it's been 10 years since the first time and I forgot how bad this was if you do it wrong, kind of stupid as I must have used 10s of thousands of similar silicon tubes, but in my defence there not spring loaded. Overtoquing upsidedown fork tripal tree bolts can have a huge effect on fork action so how bad is over-torquing those swingarm nuts?
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Over-torqueing the swingarm spindle only stretches it, if the thread doesn't give up first, no effect at all on the action of the swingarm. Stretch it too far/too often, it will break. Stretch it just enough, one end may pop off whilst riding. Oops...

The stanchion clamps of Ceriani fork yokes are an excellent example of where a torque wrench should be used. I've had to have quite a few welded because ham-fisted owners were scared the stanchions could fall out by themselves.
I've lost count of the M8 threads in triple heads that I've repaired. As well as the stretched M8 cam locating studs that needed replacing. Some people shouldn't be allowed anywhere near hand tools. :rolleyes:

There's definitely a case for torque wrenches, all over the bike, not only within the engine.

piet
 
By over-torqued, I don't mean with a mitre long pipe, it's about the same as a wheel axle nut. Often quoted by me, I know enough to be dangerous. By that, I am absolutely not like one of those overconfident DPOs who apply time bomb acts with pluck it out of their arse knowledge of self-taught engineering. That is exactly why I ask the brains trust here. Thanks, Piet I know you must be frustrated by having to fix DPO activity, as an example, someone I know decided to do a Tech course on TIG welding. Great idea I thought to start on that journey, except for the fact that he couldn't understand why he wasn't brilliant at it after 2 months of sporadic practice. He couldn't get it through his thick skull that it takes YEARS for a pro to get good at stuff.
 
K my first and only toque wrench story, I needed to toque a bike head decades ago so I hired one and stripped a thread. It was 20 ft-lbs and that was right on the lowest setting on the wrench and it didn't click at all. Learned that day they operate in a range, there is a big difference in quality for price and they need to be certified regularly. This next bit is a bit sketchy, I respect how hard doing a trade is having done one plus lots more years of tech for more qualifications after that so I don't expect being a Carpenter qualifies me in Fitting and Turning or Mechanical engineering or Auto Electrics or welding or Plumbing either. Sure I dabble but limit myself to hopefully where I do less harm and good. I find it amazing just how confident some people are with fuck all actual knowledge. The more I learn the more I realise how little I know. Case in point I just started following this.
 
When I worked in aviation at McDonnell-Douglas a SnapOn brand torque wrench was considered to be calibrated for the first twelve months after purchase. It then need to be sent to the calibration lab every year after that. As an inspector the first thing we did when witnessing a torque was check to see if the tool was current. Every bolt, nut and screw has a specified torque range and many were required to be verified, but I never once saw a screw being torqued to value on any interior or exterior panel. It was all done to German Torque: gut’en tight. In the helicopter world every single nut and bolt in the rotating assembly was always torqued to spec, we all carried inch pound 1/4” drive torque wrenches at all times. After torquing they were safety wired or cotter pinned as applicable. We used thick or thin washers to get the holes in the bolts to align with the slots in the castellated nuts within the torque range.
 
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Bicycle industry these days is loads of carbon with pinch bolts - torque values strictly applied or face the cost and consequences of a catastrophic failure.
 
Alzero said:
considered to be calibrated for the first twelve months after purchase.
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Similar with electrical meters. I got a hot tip years ago, the first test to do with a new resistance meter is test a few resistors and record the results. Keep the resistors in a safe place and re measure them and record every year. This confirms that the meter is still at factory calibration and covers me (here in NZ at least).
 
sfcpiet said:
Over-torqueing the swingarm spindle only stretches it, if the thread doesn't give up first, no effect at all on the action of the swingarm. Stretch it too far/too often, it will break. Stretch it just enough, one end may pop off whilst riding. Oops...

The stanchion clamps of Ceriani fork yokes are an excellent example of where a torque wrench should be used. I've had to have quite a few welded because ham-fisted owners were scared the stanchions could fall out by themselves.
I've lost count of the M8 threads in triple heads that I've repaired. As well as the stretched M8 cam locating studs that needed replacing. Some people shouldn't be allowed anywhere near hand tools. :rolleyes:

There's definitely a case for torque wrenches, all over the bike, not only within the engine.

piet
Click to expand...
People don't know how to wallop any more.
Paul
 
I cant help but wonder how those setting the torque settings decide what they should be? I tend to tighten to what I consider seems right, generally tight but not so as to strip threads. Slaters did that on my Jota..nice, now all time certed. Go easy on spark plugs,easy to cross thread , try replacing on a Honda SP1, and drain bolts! And as for settings, you can follow the book, but if its Green, they may be wrong, eh?! After i bought a digital micrometer, the shims on my Jota, new RGS head, 3 angle seats cut by Keith Nairn, ive never needed to re shim!
 
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