twistgrip

CLEMTOG

Hero member
My son David moved TOG a few days ago to do some job or other in the workshop and found he had the twistgrip in his hands, that is just the rotating tube and grip, nearly had a "woopsie" but managed to save it, so.... I bought a Suzuki item , from a 70's GT250, but many of the same era would be OK, eg kettle, GS1000 etc, including switch, which I didn't need, and fitted it, all back to normal, but super saver Sonia, who is Davids partner looked around and found (too late for me unfortunately) the brand new item direct from Suzuki GB, and on Ebay, the cost was a bit less, and you would only get the barrel and grip, but available new
item 322043833419.
I wonder how many are left and yes I ordered a couple before this posting!!

The old one has suffered over the last 37 years, having been dropped a few times, sometimes statically and a few others at speed (high speed trials, track days, etc) and I didn't know under the rubber grip that it was deteriorating, the barrel being shattered in places and broken for 270 degrees in others, plus the throttle cable has "cut" a track deep into the plastic quadrant where the replacement reveals it should be plain, that is what 210,000 and counting can do to the ancillary bits, I am seriously glad it didn't break in Spain on my 3 week double rally trip!
CLEM
 
Wonder if the part is available under the Suzuki 'classic' programme? As I understand it certain models are supported by Suzuki - expect you can also get a 'Jota' ignition switch from the same source.

Nick :-)
 
Does it have one or two holes for the barrel nipple on the cable? Both my Laverda triples have Mikuni carbs with a push-pull cable arrangement. Actually pull-pull would be a more accurate description. Neither of the cables actually push.
 
Good save! Glad TOG didn't hit the deck. Of course the real reason it broke is that Clem holds it against the stops constantly and he over stressed the material with his crazy mofo high speed antics.

Next time, in another 37 years or so, try replacing it with a Yamaha RD type. Bigger cable pull diameter, gives less hand movement for a given cable throw. That way you won't have to reposition your right hand mid wheelie.
 
"real reason it broke is that Clem holds it against the stops constantly"
And downhill wheelies, for sure, are really hard on those throttles.
 
Paul H said:
Good save! Glad TOG didn't hit the deck. Of course the real reason it broke is that Clem holds it against the stops constantly and he over stressed the material with his crazy mofo high speed antics.

Next time, in another 37 years or so, try replacing it with a Yamaha RD type. Bigger cable pull diameter, gives less hand movement for a given cable throw. That way you won't have to reposition your right hand mid wheelie.

Paul, is a yamaha RD throttle a good replacement for the 2-turn original? I was amazed how fast the bike goes when you turn it around for the second time :-)

I want it for street and road (no racing) so a quick action one is out of the question.

Cheers.
 
Yes, I wonder how many folk don't realise there is a whole other bike hiding under the second handful.

For me and my bike, a faster throttle pull was essential. That plus better brakes. I'm talking S1 Jota here. These 2 things brought the bike to my liking. When 'getting on' I found that either moving my right hand or having my arm at contortionist angles wasn't the best.

The difference is not massive, we are not talking of a 'trigger' throttle scenario. The Yam tube fits within the standard Suzuki housing but only just about. The cable does rub very slightly on the top front edge of the cable outer guide.

I bought the tube from Yambits (UK) back in 2007. The ebay description was YAMAHA RD 200 250 RD350 YDS YR RS100  THROTTLE TUBE. They are not on Ebay any more, I think.

Beware though, check for compatability and alignment as you go. I recommeded this to a friend, who snapped a cable within 500 miles. There must have been something set up wrong, as mine has been OK over a decade and thousands of miles.
 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/THROTTLE-PLASTIC-TWIST-TUBE-GUIDE-YAMAHA-RD250-C-D-S-DX-E-1A2-1N9-2R8-2T0-76-78/290877770075?hash=item43b9aa895b:m:mbOISuyuV9QcGRRajQewy7g

Is this the one Paul?  - Regards - Phil
 
Hard to say Phil. They are all so bloomin similar, millions of 'em.

Best thing I can do is post some pics of the tube I was supplied by Yambits (who know what they are doing and supplied under that specific ebay lmodel listing),  and say 'this one works'....

Here you can see the difference in efffective radius. See the green line for easy comparison. The Yam (white-new) one has the cable riding on a plain surface, the original(?) one has the cable running in a groove.
26842205199_fe9afb68e7.jpg


Here we look at the width - Yam a tad wider, and I seem to remember taking an smidgen off with wet-n-dry for smooth running.
26842206259_5b5a6074a7.jpg
 
The one you posted Phil - it looks like it might have a ramped surface. This is the holy grail IMHO, as it gives finer control at low speed, where we need it, but the throttle opens quickly when zoomin about.

I did it myself many years ago, DIY stylee, only abaddoned as it still wasnt quite quick enough (for me).

24746606578_f1c1a25c38_z.jpg
 
Paul H said:
The one you posted Phil - it looks like it might have a ramped surface. This is the holy grail IMHO, as it gives finer control at low speed, where we need it, but the throttle opens quickly when zoomin about.

I did it myself many years ago, DIY stylee, only abaddoned as it still wasnt quite quick enough (for me).

24746606578_f1c1a25c38_z.jpg
Absolutely right, paul! Also did this decades ago. I simply bought a plastic MX barrel (KDX kwaka or summit like that), drilled the nipple hole closer in and ground away a cam-shaped ramp. bewdiful, very sensitive doodling along but bang to full throttle with a comfortable arc of the wrist. Having raced a 1200 with the stock throttle  (Proddy race) I know all about the double handful, a truly effing pain in the arse.
 
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