Tying the brake lever on to squeeze the air out

Dellortoman

Hero member
I've often heard of tying the brake lever on overnight to get rid of air in the system. Like Carlo in his Jota thread. https://www.laverdaforum.com/forum/index.php/topic,95568.0.html

Heaps of others have either done it or suggested it as a method of "bleeding" air out of the system, so I'm not singling Carlo out. It's just that his comment about doing it is the most recent.

It's a complete myth, at least in the way most people think it works. Like this bloke for example.

He says that tying the lever on allows air bubbles to float to the top, TO A HOLE WHERE IT CAN ESCAPE. That is total bollocks. If that were true and there was a hole venting the system to air, then there would be no pressure in the system and the brakes wouldn't work at all.  This kind of pseudo mechanic bullshit is about as helpful as astrology to anyone wanting to understand their machine.

The bloke in the above video is not on his own. They're all over youtube. There was even one bloke who tied his rear brake pedal back to the footrest, where the pedal pivot was, so it didn't apply the brake at all.  ???  This kind of misinformation pisses me off, which is what motivated me to start this thread.

The only time the system is open to ambient air pressure is when the M/C piston is in the rest (fully retracted) position. The rubber seal on the piston moves back past the wee little port from the fluid reservoir, opening it to the hydraulic system. The purpose of that little port is to release any residual pressure (so the brakes don't stay on) and to allow fluid to flow into the hydraulic system if there's any loss of fluid volume. But as soon as the brakes are applied, the master cylinder piston moves past that inlet port in the cylinder, and the hydraulic system becomes closed. A moment's thought will tell you that this must be so, otherwise there's no way it could build up pressure. Nothing can get in or out of a closed system. There's no way air can get out unless there's a leak somewhere, and even then, to be of any use, the leak would have to be exactly where the air bubble is. Anyway, if that's the case you have a leak that needs fixing.

If you use this method and it makes the brakes less spongy (as many people will attest) then it's not because of air escaping. Something else is going on. I'm not sure what, but one possibility is that the pressure in the system is stretching the rubber component of the hydraulic hoses until the reinforcing fabric or steel braid takes up the load. Rubber is not an elastic material, so it doesn't spring back fully when the load is released. What you end up with is a pre-stressed brake hose that has very little "give" so it makes the brake feel firmer.

However, if the above explanation is true, then the effect won't be permanent. The rubber will slowly recover and the sponginess will return in time. I wouldn't mind betting that anyone using this method to "bleed" brakes will find that it's only a temporary fix.

Please feel free to disagree and shoot holes in my argument.
 
I always wonder how by tying the lever over night worked given the fact as Cam said the system is closed.
Have never tried it so couldn't say one way or the other. Agree with Cam though.
 
I have a remote reservoir on my Pantah with clear bloody expensive food and chemical grade hose connecting to the front master, this hose can and does develop quite big air bubbles that like to move down to the master. Putting a cable tie overnight on the lever gets a way easier effect at moving these bubbles back to the reservoir and gets me a firmer lever. I tap the lower braided lines with a screwdriver as well. My thought was it helps send the air uphill easier. Most of my experience with bubbles come from water levers, chasing bubbles up hill.
 
But Cam-he can't be wrong...he's wearing a fancy Ducati shirt & his shed walls are covered in tchotchkes!! I think there is a nugget of truth to tying the brake lever back as air bubbles could rise up to the master piston & be released into the reservoir when the lever is untied/piston fully extended. 
 
On my Esprit, to fully let any remaining air out of the clutch system after bleeding it numerous times in a situation of the anual fluid change, I undo the clutch master cylinder and let it hang so that the bleed valve is upwards, contrary to letting it sit in it's installed position where it sits horisontal and the bleed valve is pointing down. This, over night will let any air upwards to the bleed valve and next day, I can very easy bleed the remaining air out.
Not the same as the brake bleed video/theory of course, but maybe some people think this is what the pressed brake lever does in a similar fashion.

Kind regards,
jacques
 
I have always got all the air out of an empty mc by tilting and pumpimg the first scrap of movement, allowing this little bleed hole access to both sides of the seal, raising and lowering the lever end while holding the mc in my hand. You can let it sit a few minutes and do it again and maybe the last few miniscule bubbles come up, continuing until it is fully firm and impossible to get out any more bubbles. People swear by this cable tying or ocker strapping of the lever but I?ve never had to so it and agree with Cam I can?t see the logic, do air bubbles raise out of a fluid easier if under pressure? If the whole system has been emptied calipers and all then I let it just run through and drain at the caliper nipple keeping the reservoir topped up (starting at the furthest bleed nipple first), then bleed with the squeeze the lever and release the nipple method, and always do the mc as above, never had a problem, rear brakes the same.
 
tying the brake-lever to the handle bar only makes a bit sense if there is already a kind of resistance in the system. I assume (!!) the theory is that if you apply pressure, the remaining air a) forms together a bigger bubble and b) the expansion-force of the compressed bubble helps it to move upwards. From there, the bubbles can "escape" through the hole after releasing the lever.

If there is no resistance in the system at all, this method will propably not help.

I combine several methodes to get success, depending on what is changed:

just brake-master:
-if anyhow possible, I leave the calipers connected to the brake-lines and the system filled.
-before dismounting the brake master, I pull out the brake-pads and pump out the pistons so that there is more brake fluid in the calipers than normal. be carefully not to overdue, else the pistons might pop-out and you have a leaking system!
-exchange the brake-master and re-fill the reservoir
-gently push the pistons in at the calipers, making sure the reservoir does not overflow and the highest point of the system is the venting hole (sometimes it is enough to just turn the stearing left...
-pump the pistons out again and presse them back in. Repeat until you have a very firm feeling on the lever.
-Re-install the brake-pads
-bleed the system to get fresh fluid into the calipers!

Normally this is all you need to do!

if I have to exchange the calipers or brake lines:
-I take a vacuum bleeder to somewhat fill the system first by sucking the air out at the calipers and the fluid in from the reservoir
-once fluid comes out of the calipers this way, I start gently pressing the lever just the first mm until no bubbles apear anymore
-you should have already a slight resistance; if not, you should go back one step and continue moving the lever
-now strap the lever to the handlebar and leave it there for a while. again, this makes only sense to me if there is already a slight resistance!!
-continue again with the slight movements until the last bubbles come up.
-to get rid of the last bit of air, press the caliper pistons back in again. this should send the last air on its way back through the system.
-Job done.

Worked for me well in over 30 years and on several bikes
 
A lot of things work a whole lot better if you turn your back on them, go away and come back the next day.

No doubt that waiting awhile, will allow little bubbles to unite and make their way up.

Paul
 
I have to say I did not think it would work as there is no engineering or physics principles behind it.

But after battling for 3 bloody days in bleeding the front brakes on the CORSA back in 2017 after changing the lines and fitting 4 pot Brembos, I was ready to try anything.  I'd used every method I had previously used as well as a couple of what I regarded as snake oil methods.
Two well respected LAV mechanics here in Sydney both suggested tying the lever back with the master cyclinder cap off.  It worked in my case.
A small amount of pressure in the system became a much larger amount of pressure (or resistance at the brake lever) the next morning, and more bleeding, much swearing and after more nights with the lever tied back it came good.

So a serious doubter became a believer.  My red wine stocks agreed.  I have given up wondering why and just accepted it.
 
Works perfectly well for me since years. It should be pretty much clear that the air is leaving the system while you release the lever (after it was hold on pressure for a while) and then carefully pull it in again.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             
 
Changed the brakes pipes on my Jota recently and did not fancy shearing off loosening the bleed nipples.  So did what I have done before.
Spent 30 minutes gently pulsing the brake lever until all the bubbles had finished coming out.  A bit of patience and all is well.
 
Paul Marx said:
No doubt that waiting awhile, will allow little bubbles to unite and make their way up.

Paul

I have always had success with this technique but an old friend had a small electric motor he would attach to the caliper while holding in the brake lever. He claimed it vibrated the bubbles out much quicker. Only problem is you can't drink a whole bunch of beer while you're waiting.
 
helicopterjim said:
I have always had success with this technique but an old friend had a small electric motor he would attach to the caliper while holding in the brake lever. He claimed it vibrated the bubbles out much quicker. Only problem is you can't drink a whole bunch of beer while you're waiting.

Madame's small electric motor?

Paul
 
DavidH said:
I have to say I did not think it would work as there is no engineering or physics principles behind it.

But after battling for 3 bloody days in bleeding the front brakes on the CORSA back in 2017 after changing the lines and fitting 4 pot Brembos, I was ready to try anything.  I'd used every method I had previously used as well as a couple of what I regarded as snake oil methods.
Two well respected LAV mechanics here in Sydney both suggested tying the lever back with the master cyclinder cap off.  It worked in my case.
A small amount of pressure in the system became a much larger amount of pressure (or resistance at the brake lever) the next morning, and more bleeding, much swearing and after more nights with the lever tied back it came good.

So a serious doubter became a believer.  My red wine stocks agreed.  I have given up wondering why and just accepted it.


Worked for me too on a stubborn race bike years ago before i discovered Easybleed using tyre pressure.
 
Laverdalothar said:
-before dismounting the brake master, I pull out the brake-pads and pump out the pistons so that there is more brake fluid in the calipers than normal. be carefully not to overdue, else the pistons might pop-out and you have a leaking system!
-exchange the brake-master and re-fill the reservoir
-gently push the pistons in at the calipers, making sure the reservoir does not overflow and the highest point of the system is the venting hole (sometimes it is enough to just turn the stearing left...

Outlined this method in a different post two weeks ago - I learnt it working on bicycle disc brakes. It's a gem.
qf
 
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