Ultrasonic Cleaner - Recommendations

Piranha Brother 2 said:
Noone has managed to answer my initial question when starting this thread! Are the cheaper, jewellery-type units OK for small parts like carb bodies?

I don't want to invest in a 50L mult-1000$ one for cases. Much as I'd love one ... and a 30T workshop press, and a bigger lathe, and a Bridport machine, and and and ...
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First of all: live is to short for cheap tools.

The bigger ones have a heating, too, which helps a lot on the cleaning process I feel. second, the small jewellery type Units are made for small jewellery and maybe glasses. The ultrasonic unit is to weak to get through to every littel channel and also has trouble with reall sticky dirt. It might make half of the job, maybe 60% of a good, sufficiant unit.

I have a 20 Liter one with heating etc., bought new for roughly 600?. The 20 Liter (or what ever the seller claims as the capacity...) is the BRUTT volume. you need to leave 2-3 cm from the top free, which in real makes it maybe a 15- 18Liter unit. This one is big enough to take a full set of carbs with all parts and has 3 or 4 ultrasonic pulsers to give enough power for the whole bathtube to be working.

the unit paid off meanwhile as I did roughly 20 carb sets from friends, several brake-calipers and other stuff in it and all came out very nicely.

So - if you want one set of carbs to be cleaned, send it to someone and get it done. Costs about 100? for the work, maybe 150. If you intent to clean more stuff, get yourself a unit and get a sufficient one.

just my 2,5 cents.
 
Dellortoman said:
I suspect Lothar's German language skills are better than yours Greg. A big advantage when searching the net for German based technical info.
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Actually I was just searching ASNU, as that is the technique to look for when cleaning injectors. As google recognizes I am in Germany, the first video came in german. I then started an english search for "ASNU Injector cleaning" and found the english video...  ;)

It's all about the keywords...  :D
 
I have a 2 litre job bought from an electronics warehouse just over the border in Sweden, it comes all the way from China though.
Has a heater, timer, overload/heat cutouts and other electroic stuff I can?t understand on the touch panel, a plastic mesh basket and works a treat, but it has a really annoying buzz when it is working. Just fits a 36mm Dellorto. Small bits are to be put in a glass jar, as the ultrasosnic waves go straight through the glass, ideal for all the jets and stuff. I bought it to fix a set of Mikunis and that one job paid for it?s cheap price. Most of my parts washing is with elbow grease, but for stuff like carbs this is just the ticket.
 
Dellortoman said:
The U/S cleaner doesn't remove all staining and tarnish, so carb bodies and parts don't come out looking like new. But the water comes out looking pretty filthy afterwards so it must be removing some crap.

If I want the carb bodies to look as good as new, I soda blast them.
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They don't do what one thinks they will do, but they will do what one thinks they won't do. Weird as!!! And they say Economics is Witchcraft!!!!!

My unit is 25Khz, no heating, 60 litre tank. I'm still only using my "Workshop Floor Cleaner"

3CL casings. 40 years of shit. dipped in the u/s for 3 hours. lifted heaps, but started chewing away on the bare metal where there wasn't a heavy soil deposit.
Low pressure sandblast with worn grit ( my cabinet has very very worn grit, cos I like it, I think it is "soft"). Air blast, water blast ( to clean out the galleries of grit) and the U/S. Best set of casings I've done so far.

By the end of the process, the water was too hot to hold my hand in. (63C plus). so heated units only reduce degassing time and initial run time. I'll buy an immersion element to speed processing up.

None of the tubs we are talking about are agitated, including mine. I regularly shake the castings to move the soil that has been lifted and just sits there. I think an submersible fuel pump, or a coolant pump for a lathe ect would make a big difference.

Like I stated, it is Witchcraft. Perhaps the really SMART thing to do would be to find a specific website for U/S, and not in German... :)

Regards, Greg
 
ghwallice said:
By the end of the process, the water was too hot to hold my hand in. (63C plus). so heated units only reduce degassing time and initial run time.
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Not sure what "floor cleaner" you are using ..... but there should NOT be a chemical reaction that raises the temperature that high.

Only other thing I can think of is your device imparts enough energy from the ultrasonics to heat the water ......... that's a lot of power.
 
ghwallice said:
Low pressure sandblast with worn grit ( my cabinet has very very worn grit, cos I like it, I think it is "soft").
Click to expand...

Did the same to my SFC cases ...... after they spent the night in a hot water agitating bath (no chemicals). Friends shop has a machine with old grit specifically for this type of job. Heck of a nice job.
 
The cavitation process creates micro-explosions of up to (calculated) 10, 000 degrees F and 10,000 psi. This is what heats the water without a dedicated heater.

Refer to the below for a read

http://mrc.magicnet.co.il/data/MagicNetFiles/General//Ultrasonic%20Cleaning.pdf

Regards, Greg
 
Thanks for the info ....... your 60L device must be producing a lot of power. The 1 and 3 L devices we use at work don't produce much heat even after 3 or 4 hours of operation ..... but the medium is warmed up maybe 10 or 15  degrees.
 
helicopterjim said:
Just got my 10L ultrasonic cleaner today. Time to play ....... what chemicals should I try first?

Looks big enough for 2 Dellorto's at a time but I'll need a fine mess basket for the brass bit.
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hope you mean mesh and not mess?  :o

:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
 
I'll try and dig up the MSDS data for my floor cleaner as per the MSDS alloy cleaner.

Little brass things in a solution for alloy.....

Cos i'm using a bigger tub, and I need to be able to do small samples with a different solution, I've read and read and read.

A bottle with a different solution can be put into a tub, and the sound waves will transfer through the glass and do their work. I can't find where I read it.

One would imagine that the liquid in the bottle would need to be degassed....can this be done with a lid on the bottle. If so, will it explode? I guess there is only one way to find out.... :(

Regards, Greg
 
Piranha Brother 2 said:
Noone has managed to answer my initial question when starting this thread! Are the cheaper, jewellery-type units OK for small parts like carb bodies?

I don't want to invest in a 50L mult-1000$ one for cases. Much as I'd love one ... and a 30T workshop press, and a bigger lathe, and a Bridport machine, and and and ...
Click to expand...

I inherited a small jewelry type unit. It requires warm water, a drop of dishwashing liquid and patience to move a small amount of crud out of orifices in small parts.
If you have a basement or remote area where the constant hum doesn't bother you you can let the unit work several hours, replenishing the warm water/dishwater mix every hour.
Don't expect any miracles! Soft bristles from a brush and compressed air will be needed to help clear the crud out.

I wouldn't buy one if I were you.

HTH
Gerald

 
I tried an ultrasonic jewellery cleaner. Did nothing.

Then I bought a 13 litre job, with heating element, and proper detergent for cleaning carburettors (different types depending on what you are trying to clean for maximum effectiveness). Very effective.
 
As I said, proper detergent for cleaning carburettors.
I bought a 25 litre drum on Ebay from a company making a range of detergents for ultrasonic baths depending on what you want to clean.
In my case I bought their carb cleaning detergent. Just dilute to the recommended concentration and away you go.
 
bought this from 22l  https://www.ebay.it/itm/DE-Lavatrice-Ultrasuoni-Pulitore-Digitale-3L-6L-10L-15L-22L-Dentale-Pulizia-220V/152740441840?hash=item23900a2ef0:m:mCAy_-s9j2wd01qJF_i75pQ
used with the Fulcron of the Arexons
15-minute cycles in hot water.

I put water already hot because the heater takes a long time to bring it to temperature, but it's okay to make it rise a few degrees over time.

Satisfied with the cleaning of the carburetors and much more.



[url=https://flic.kr/p/21ypsYu]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/21ULy7b]

It does not do everything on its own, but it helps to achieve these results  :D
 
You have done a great job cleaning the carbs. So far what I have learned is the warm solutions work best and it doesn't take too long. Also mineral spirits (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_spirit) work well for soaking the carb first then a final wash in a good detergent takes the rest off and brightens the aluminum. Leave it too long though and you may darken the aluminum. After all that then a good wash in hot water and blow dry with compressed air or even in a low temperature oven to remove all the moisture.
 
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