Voxbell horns - good advice from the forum

bclark

bclark

Senior member
My bike failed the MOT on the horns not working today (they worked a couple of days ago when I did a quick check of the electrics but they did need to clear their throats a bit initially) - at the station after being told they were dead I wiggled the contacts and tapped the horns but no sign of life. At home there was 12V dc at both horns on pressing the switch so it was with both horns (threw my speed triple on on one side to get the year's ticket).

Later I found the posting (couldn't refind it now unfortunately) suggesting removing the tuning screws, spraying releasing oil down the hole and shaking, powering up and tapping with a rubber mallet until they came back to life. I'd add that after removing the horn and powering up (with a battery charger in my case) tap around the edge ad and screw the screw in (or in then out then in again) until a (very) faint clicking noise is heard then tap progressively sharply (I used a plastic screwdriver head) around the circumference until a solid tone breaks through the murk. Then I tuned slightly to get the tone right.

Worked great for both horns which sound better than they ever have (hopefully it will last for a while)..
 
Squirting oil into them and hitting them with a hammer is a band-aid solution at best.

Better to take them apart and service them properly. You'll need to drill the rivets or grind their heads off. The inner works are so simple that it would take a very creative idiot to fuck it up. Just shake out the rust, clean the contacts, reassemble and adjust the tuning screw for maximum noise. Use bolts and nuts to replace the rivets (M5 I think).

When I do them, I spray a bit of fish oil inside to slow down any further rust and seal the joint with silicone to prevent water ingress. This needs to be done on a regular basis - at least once every 40 years.

Cheers,
Cam
 
Dellortoman said:
Squirting oil into them and hitting them with a hammer is a band-aid solution at best.

Better to take them apart and service them properly. You'll need to drill the rivets or grind their heads off. The inner works are so simple that it would take a very creative idiot to fuck it up. Just shake out the rust, clean the contacts, reassemble and adjust the tuning screw for maximum noise. Use bolts and nuts to replace the rivets (M5 I think).
When I do them, I spray a bit of fish oil inside to slow down any further rust and seal the joint with silicone to prevent water ingress. This needs to be done on a regular basis - at least once every 40 years.

Cheers,



M3 I know :D

          Dave
Cam
Click to expand...
 
I just finished resurrecting 2 sets that came as non-functional junk when I bought my Jota. Ditto what Cam says, and also resolder where the wire joins onto the electromagnet block. The wire tends to break off due to vibration. 3mm/1/8 inch rivets aren't too hard to find but unless you've got an arbor and the right dies they don't look too good if you peen them over with a punch. Nuts and bolts are better, don't forget the sealant both sides of the diaphragm, be sure the drain hole is at the bottom and clear (apparently only some have a drain hole though), and use threadlock or a dab of paint on the adjusting screw because it will vibrate loose.

Ken
 
worst is the spring steel brackets they just shatter eventually so zip tie those horns.I ve gone back to my Fiamms .

LJ
 
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