What grease to use

nolacus

nolacus

New member
Location
Coventry UK
Hi
Just about to re-assemble the gear box change mechanism and covers after a clean up.
What type of grease would you apply to the parts within the cover/s?

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Molybdenum disulfide grease "EP Moly Grease".

Use it for External Gear Shifter Selectors, Starter Pin Wheel Gear Clusters and Flywheel Starter Clutches ;o)

Usually recognized as being grey in colour and light in weight - NOT having that Burn Heavy Honey colour. Molybdenum disulfide Grease is often used on threads when torquing bolts. For that matter ARP Nut's and Bolts recommend Molylube Grease to fasten their products.

If you can't get that stuff White Lithium will do.

Have fun indexing that Shifter Selector - Hope you punched some marks before you dissembled ;o)
 
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Dellortoman:

OOP's - Not saying the gear selector cavity is a dry hole for the SF ? However; I do recall an oil drip if you parked the bike on the side stand if you over filled the oil ?

Most likely from rubber "O" ring leaking on the shifter shaft ?

Hey! We are all OLD just owning or thinking about Breganzies. I loved my 70 SF. Bought her New, well as new as you could get one at the time . Rode her for over 45 years and she tried her best to kill me. There's a story behind her legacy and shes still going under a second owner ;o)

I know a well tuned Breganzie 750 SF is faster then a Norton Commando, a Ducati 750S or a Kawasaki 1100 LTD - You are in you own space on her - Really some kind of ride ;o)

In 1972 a 70 750 SF taught me how to drift through a Hi-Spd corner.
 
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Laverda SF said:
Dellortoman:

OOP's - Not saying the gear selector cavity is a dry hole for the SF as I never saw an oil feed to it ? However; I do recall an oil drip if you parked the bike on the side stand if you over filled the oil ?

Most likely from rubber "O" ring leaking on the shifter shaft ?

I've never encountered a bike with an oil bath Gear Selector Cavity save for the gear selector guide plate in the tranny. Perhaps you are thinking about the chain case and wet clutch cavity.

Hey! We are all OLD just owning or thinking about Breganzies. I loved my 70 SF. Bought her New, well as new as you could get one at the time . Rode her for over 45 years and she tried her best to kill me. There's a story behind her legacy and shes still going under a second owner ;o)

I know a well tuned Breganzie 750 SF is faster then a Norton Commando, a Ducati 750S or a Kawasaki 1100 LTD - You are in you own space on her - Really some kind of ride ;o)

In 1972 a 70 750 SF taught me how to drift through a Hi-Spd corner.
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biased ... a hot Norton is pretty comparable (how many IOM's by a Laverda) (hp is hp)

but I do love Lav
 
I love the Norton 750 Commando and Ducati 750S but a well tuned Breganzie 750 SF will beat them - PERIOD !

However: the Breganzie is more difficult to ride. Not saying that a Breganzie is more difficult to ride but rather she demands Cafe Practice of riding.
 
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Geez ! You are correct Dellorto. The shifter cavity is in an oil wet environment and should not require grease - For some reason I was thinking about the Clutch Lever cavity - Man this getting old crap is frustrating at times ;o(
 
Laverda SF said:
Molybdenum disulfide grease "EP Moly Grease".

Use it for External Gear Shifter Selectors, Starter Pin Wheel Gear Clusters and Flywheel Starter Clutches ;o)

Usually recognized as being grey in colour and light in weight - NOT having that Burn Heavy Honey colour. Molybdenum disulfide Grease is often used on threads when torquing bolts. For that matter ARP Nut's and Bolts recommend Molylube Grease to fasten their products.

If you can't get that stuff White Lithium will do.

Have fun indexing that Shifter Selector - Hope you punched some marks before you dissembled ;o)
Click to expand...
Oh no I didn't do that. No holes unced, it actually came away with the cover when I removed it.
Where do I start with getting that in correctly now, or will it be a trial nd error.
 
nolacus said:
Oh no I didn't do that. No holes unced, it actually came away with the cover when I removed it.
Where do I start with getting that in correctly now, or will it be a trial nd error.
Click to expand...
The selector with the pins is indexed by a line ground into the surface above the pins. That index lines up in neutral with a line scribed on the gear at the end of the selector drum which you'll see through a hole in the inner cover. The only thing which can be a bit hit and miss is the setting up of the eccentric which limits the movement of the selector "fork".

The large hardened washer to hold the pins in is vital.

Don't you have a workshop manual or a green book? Equally vital before doing anything on old metal that you don't know.

Paul
 
Thanks for the help everyone, you'll be pleased to know I have today got my copy of the green laverda twin and triple repair and tune-up.

The washer tht hold the pins in is completely missing on this bike so I'll need to source one.
 
When assembling things with washers/shims/fiddly bits I use Redline assembly lube. It is viscous enough to hold things together and completely compatible with engine/gearbox oils.
 
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