What's in your crank slingers

All VERY ineteresting stuff,thanks guys...I suppose it is not SO much that I am concerned the crank may wear, as long as it gives fair warning..what I don't want is a broken rod lunching my new pistons, barrels and sweet RGS head, never used and with lovely re-cut valve seats etc etc
I doubt I will have the problem of accumulated crud, as I change oil at no more than 1000m anyway (in fact prior to now, most of it was burnt!) and the crank was re-built, all bearings changed a few thousand miles ago. Just rang Applbee's to see if they know about the slingers...they clean out(but not full dissasembly) and have not had one where the crud has blocked of the oil and don't believe that could happen because of the size of the hole...they say quite a common design...
It doesn't sound as though the broken rods that I have heard of are actually obviously attributable to blocked slingers as such...so I wouldn't lose sleep over it, but have 'em cleaned out if you have to have the crank out for any reason..
Nick7
 
nick7 said:
All VERY ineteresting stuff,thanks guys...I suppose it is not SO much that I am concerned the crank may wear, as long as it gives fair warning..what I don't want is a broken rod lunching my new pistons, barrels and sweet RGS head, never used and with lovely re-cut valve seats etc etc
I doubt I will have the problem of accumulated crud, as I change oil at no more than 1000m anyway (in fact prior to now, most of it was burnt!) and the crank was re-built, all bearings changed a few thousand miles ago. Just rang Applbee's to see if they know about the slingers...they clean out(but not full dissasembly) and have not had one where the crud has blocked of the oil and don't believe that could happen because of the size of the hole...they say quite a common design...
It doesn't sound as though the broken rods that I have heard of are actually obviously attributable to blocked slingers as such...so I wouldn't lose sleep over it, but have 'em cleaned out if you have to have the crank out for any reason..
Nick7
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I can tell you they didn't clean my mine out. I am simply reporting the facts, not wishing to get into a mud slinging match. One could say it is my fault for not asking?
I ended up cleaning them out myself, on a fully assembled crank (not  recommended as discussed a couple of years back) and they were about half full and it took me a day !

 
sfcpiet said:
I have been using full synthetic along with a screw-on H-D oil filter in my 3C since I re-built it 20 years ago.... when I replace the crank with my lightened one (hopefully within the next 3 weeks) I can report on effects regarding the oil.
Click to expand...

OK, finally pulled the engine and tore it apart.

Crank is visually 100%, no undue axial clearance at big ends, no radial clearance to be felt, still covered in oil.  Will need to clean it of all oil to check big ends properly.  Small ends perfect (RGS rods).  Exceptionally low crud content in the slingers, perhaps 2mm thick and still quite soft.  But has a high ferrous content!  Was surprised to find a couple of chain roller bits in the sump, the connecting hole to the primary housing is quite a way from the floor of the sump, how did they make it through there??(had a primary chain "issue" last year in Spa!)   Gearbox cluster (factory close ratio) still looks like new, no wear in the clutch.  Head OK, no cracks, the shims are on average 0.3mm thinner than the ones I fitted 20 years ago.  Pistons and barrels show normal wear, apart from #1 barrel, has a rusty ring about halfway up (down?) due to condensation during lay-up.  Need to be a bit more careful when storing the bike in the future.  Starter freewheel bearing is knackered, and that's it!  Not too bad for 60-oddK km since putting the thing together.  

New pistons, lightened crank, slight valve seat adjustments to do and I'll button it up once again.

Always used 10W60 full synthetic, first Bel-Ray, later Liqui-Moly Racing.  Oil change intervals at 7000-7500km and filter replacment (H-D) with each change.

piet
 
sfcpiet said:
sfcpiet said:
I have been using full synthetic along with a screw-on H-D oil filter in my 3C since I re-built it 20 years ago.... when I replace the crank with my lightened one (hopefully within the next 3 weeks) I can report on effects regarding the oil.
Click to expand...

OK, finally pulled the engine and tore it apart.

Crank is visually 100%, no undue axial clearance at big ends, no radial clearance to be felt, still covered in oil.  Will need to clean it of all oil to check big ends properly.  Small ends perfect (RGS rods).  Exceptionally low crud content in the slingers, perhaps 2mm thick and still quite soft.  But has a high ferrous content!  Was surprised to find a couple of chain roller bits in the sump, the connecting hole to the primary housing is quite a way from the floor of the sump, how did they make it through there??(had a primary chain "issue" last year in Spa!)   Gearbox cluster (factory close ratio) still looks like new, no wear in the clutch.  Head OK, no cracks, the shims are on average 0.3mm thinner than the ones I fitted 20 years ago.  Pistons and barrels show normal wear, apart from #1 barrel, has a rusty ring about halfway up (down?) due to condensation during lay-up.  Need to be a bit more careful when storing the bike in the future.  Starter freewheel bearing is knackered, and that's it!  Not too bad for 60-oddK km since putting the thing together.  

New pistons, lightened crank, slight valve seat adjustments to do and I'll button it up once again.

Always used 10W60 full synthetic, first Bel-Ray, later Liqui-Moly Racing.  Oil change intervals at 7000-7500km and filter replacment (H-D) with each change.

piet
Click to expand...

piet,

If the big ends check out OK, do you think the filter was the #1 reason your crank was in good shape? Quality oil always helps too.

rusty
 
Yes, I reckon it's the filter, Rusty.

60000km isn't much for the big-ends, I would be very disappointed indeed if they were shot, it's the low amount of crud in the slingers that shows the difference!  Not down to quality oil either, imho it's the filter that did it.

The cranks I have pulled apart over the years generally have 5-6 times that amount in the slingers and the stuff is then rock-solid.  Granted, rarely get to know the (true) history of the bike/engine, oil change intervals are bound to have been "forgotten" in many cases.

Sticking it back together over the easter weekend, won't get it finished due to family commitments..... :( 

While I was at it, the clutch basket is now lightened/balanced, starter gears lightened, sprag clutch housing balanced.  The alternator rotor will also be relieved of a bit of excess weight as well as a few odds and sods.....

piet
 
Certainly gonna give it a shot, Red!

Rob rides circles around me, I'll be satisfied if I can stay with him in a straight line.

piet
 
sfcpiet said:
Certainly gonna give it a shot, Red!

Rob rides circles around me, I'll be satisfied if I can stay with him in a straight line.

piet
Click to expand...

Piet, dont worry (not that you are)  I wont be very comfortable running on 18" heels again... Your Motor sounds great and is a lot sweeter than mine...
 
Bloody hell Rob..
How can you even stand up on those heels.. Vertigo??? Bloody nose????
Sure you dont wear fishnets under your leathers???  :-*
Sorry, couldnt help myself...... lol

Ciao,  Ross.
 
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