Wheel bearings for a RGS 1000

AndyW said:
<yawn> they're not trying to sell something by any chance are they?
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Actually no, they were not trying to sell anything but it was an interesting article on the different qualities of grease.

Whoodathunk they would use soap as a filler/thickener in grease. Sure, soap will itself work as a lubricant but when mixed with water is a great way of helping clean up oil. Soap works as it is a long chain compound which has a water soluble end and is oil soluble at the other. Why the F would you use it in grease?
 
If your inclined to remove the covers on wheel bearing and re-pack them..you may be removing some excellent grease. Most modern quality sealed roller bearings are now packed with Polyurea grease. Very stout grease. See the link:

SEALED FOR LIFE BEARINGS
Electric motor and automotive wheel bearings are two
demanding sealed for life applications where polyurea
greases thrive.

http://www.axelch.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/WhitePaper-14.pdf
 
{Yawn} far to technical, why would I want to learn about this. No Its a good thing to learn new stuff.Thanks for that.
 
Vince said:
I watched my buddy Dave,a mechanic by trade,the  mate who rebuilt my 64 Bonnie pick the metal shield out off the wheel bearing of his GT 750 Bevel with a fine pointed pick do the grease in the palm thing and replace the metal shield. I would have thought this was pretty common thing to do.It was 30 years ago.This sheld was a thin metal plate the shape of a Holly Dollar that covered the race either side of the bearing.
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There be lies the problem Vince your wheel bearings aint got metal shields, me thinks they are neoprene and if you do manage to pick the seal out good chance it will be damaged and besides whats the point, if you have to remove the seal to repack then that means its already compromised.. for the cost of a new bearing what would be the point........ unless someone has way too much time on their hands

But again more than happy for you to show me how's its done never too late in life to learn...........................so I just happen to have some old metal shield bearings here that you can play with if you like... as some bright spark  ( with a few roos loose in the top paddock I would suggest )had used them for wheel bearings on my Jota.
Bloody hell amazing I made it there and back on the Putty run  to be honest no wonder it was wandering all over the road and here was me putting it down to 15 year old Continentals.. 
 
'ZZ' means double metal shield, '2RS' means double rubber shield.

Generic off the shelf lithium grease does indeed absorb moisture, marine grade lithium grease will not. However it can be very pricy indeed (well worth it perhaps).
Most greased bearings fail through over greasing rather than under.
The bearing should be packed with 40% grease and no more.
 
As I usually end up replacing wheel bearing twice in my life, I don't see that many. So I take it the DD double metal ones are obsolete, and 40% of grease is the recommended amount and Marine Grade is a good thing. It's good to know where my anecdotal info comes from are reasonably good sources.
 
Last wheel bearings I bought were SKF Explorer ones for the motorised sofa wheels.
Guy at my supplier, Forth Engineering, seemed really enthusiastic about them using big words I did not recognise ???
Takes all sorts.
 
There is bit of BS being written about wheel bearings here, always use good quality bearings from a reliable source...avoid Chinese made bearings like the plague.
Make sure the bearing housings are clean before fitting the bearings and make sure the spacers between the bearings are not worn /damaged and that they support the inner race fully when the wheel spindle is fastened.
Wheel spindles must also be a good fit free in the inner race without being loose and in good condition.
There should be a very small amount of end float between the outer races and the housing's with the wheel nuts tight to ensure the bearings don't have diagonal load on the tracks and balls.
Sealed for life bearings from reputable manufacturers can be counted on to be properly filled with the correct type and amount of lubricant.
Warming the housing / wheel beforehand can help as can cooling the bearing but you need to operate quickly as heat transfer is swift once contact is made.
Use of quality had tools , drifts and pullers speaks volumes.
 
The bearings should drop in to the hub with out needing to be pressed in. If any force is needed at all, you did not get the hub hot enough. Same applies for removal. I put the wheel on the gas cooker with the flame touching where the brake rotor mounts. After a few minutes the bearing should fall out.
 
The gas cooker ring procedure actually works well. Aim is to heat the wheel hub casting, not the bearing directly. If things start to smoke you've gone too far! Because the wheel hub is not in direct contact with the flame, paint finish is undamaged.
 
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