Wheel rim + tyre sizes 1000 3CL

russo011

russo011

Senior member
Location
Austria
Hello Folks, want to change my cast wheels on my 1976 3CL to a set with spokes - main reason being that when you rotate both front & rear wheels you can notice some movement on the rims themselves - can't say exactly how much as I don't have a DTI to check.
In any case I believe the fitted series 1 (thin web) wheels are original and I don't really have so much confidence in them when looking at the run-out by eye - bearings are good by the way.
Front wheel is marked as a 2,15 & the rear as 2,50 - since I got the bike I haven't been able to ride it that much due to oil leak issue from the right hand casing - anyways that's another story.
The fitted tyres are battleaxe BT45's 100/90 - 18 56V front & 120/90 - 18 65V rear and are some 6 years old so due for a replacement too in my mind.
From my understanding at least, it's possible to go a up a rim size to 2,5 front & 3,0 rear - which may give greater flexibility in tyre choice without having to carry out any other modifications to drive train (intend to fit a 530 chain + sprockets), chain guard, rear brake, front brake etc etc.
So to the question - has anybody played around with such a change? Pro's & con's? Just that it's a big investment in changing over the wheels so I just want to get the rim sizes right and not to fall into any issues due to oversight.
 
Gerald said:
Hi Russ,
I did the conversion a while back, tried to document all steps and parts here
If you have any further questions just ask.

Regards Gerald
Click to expand...
Thanks Gerald, think I came across the original article you mentioned some time before - not sure from where though.
So you settled for 2,50 front and 3,00 rear - what section tyres did you fit?
What about the front discs - did you keep the standard 280mm diameter?
 
Russ,
Front wheel 100/90 - 18 56V, back wheel 120/90 - 18 65V.
I'm on my fourth set of tires since I installed the wheels, no problems.
My tire dealer used to get upset every time I showed up with the original FLAM cast wheels.
Right PITA to remove and install tires, contrary to the spoke DID and Akront rims now fitted.
Front discs are OEM 280mm diameter, bolted to the hub from a SF 2.

HTH
Gerald
 
Gerald said:
Russ,
Front wheel 100/90 - 18 56V, back wheel 120/90 - 18 65V.
I'm on my fourth set of tires since I installed the wheels, no problems.
My tire dealer used to get upset every time I showed up with the original FLAM cast wheels.
Right PITA to remove and install tires, contrary to the spoke DID and Akront rims now fitted.
Front discs are OEM 280mm diameter, bolted to the hub from a SF 2.

HTH
Gerald
Click to expand...
Thanks Gerald - will go for the 2,5 front and 3,0 rear combo then.
 
I have the original 2.15" WM3 rim on the front of mine but raised the rear rim to 3.00", back in '91.
I run a 110/90 V18 Front and, usually, a 140/70 V18 Rear. Currently on a 130/80 V18 as Bridgestone didn't have the 140 in a V last October, when I bought the 130.
No problems with chain clearance, mine's also a 530.
 
The Sock said:
I have the original 2.15" WM3 rim on the front of mine but raised the rear rim to 3.00", back in '91.
I run a 110/90 V18 Front and, usually, a 140/70 V18 Rear. Currently on a 130/80 V18 as Bridgestone didn't have the 140 in a V last October, when I bought the 130.
No problems with chain clearance, mine's also a 530.
Click to expand...
cheers i see that continental have a 100/90 and 130/80 available - road attack 3
 
I have Bridgestone T32 front and rear, that's the smallest radial rear available, it's a 140 on a 3.0 rim, not as easy to adapt as you might hope. Front is a 110, I like them a lot. I did have to muck with the chain guard a bit on my 3c
 
My thin web wheels were so far out of true it was ridiculous. Everyone who rode behind me commented on it yet I could not feel any wobble at all. Eventually took them to a bloke who trues wheels in his spare time. Has the proper jig and dial gauges etc. Took him a week part time to get the rear true. Now perfect. and way cheaper than getting new wheels.
 
You can't feel lateral run-out if you're travelling in a straight line. You might feel it when cornering if it's bad enough and the road surface is smooth.

I had a dodgy re-tread rear tyre with a square profile on my sidecar outfit. The previous owner gave it to me when I bought the outfit. He'd had a bunch of old tyre carcases re-treaded to get the square profile, but it was a crap re-tread job. The bonded new tread had about 15mm run out. I couldn't feel it while riding but like Davo's experience, people following behind me thought the wheel was about to self-destruct. I got rid of the whole system and fitted a car rim to a spare Kawasaki hub so I could run 15" car tyres.
 
Davo said:
My thin web wheels were so far out of true it was ridiculous. Everyone who rode behind me commented on it yet I could not feel any wobble at all. Eventually took them to a bloke who trues wheels in his spare time. Has the proper jig and dial gauges etc. Took him a week part time to get the rear true. Now perfect. and way cheaper than getting new wheels.
Click to expand...
😰 I hope that rear was not the one that 'someone' in Qld sent you. 🙄
 
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