Which motor oil is the best for laverda 750 sf1??

tyelav13 said:
Imagine if they were all in the same room discussing  it! Would pay to see that!!! lol
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Would all be well lubricated by the end of the night  :LOL:
 
OneThinBloke said:
For those of us who are dumb enough to a) Live somewhere cold; and/or b) Regularly ride when it is proper cold, we could benefit from using a 5/50 or maybe 10/50, or even when seriously cold a 0/50?  Not being a mechanic, it is good to have these things cleared up.
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(Just seen this ..)

No, James - BIG mistake.  Dangerous to drop the viscosity that much  :o .  You could go for a 15 weight; but the difference between a 20 weight oil and a 5 weight oil is considerable - and don't even think about 0 weight!  At that viscosity, the worn-out oil pumps in our dinosaurs won't even know it's there ...

Ciao

Craig
 
ludiluka said:
OO I see that I started Laverda oil war  :D.  I just wanted to know if 15w-40 or 20w-50 is good viscosity
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:D

Simples: stick with what Laverda recommended.  Which was "Shell Super Motor Oil 100"*.  Which was a 20w-50.**

Ciao

Craig

* Source: Owner's Handbook.

** I quote from a contemporary press release:

"From June 1, Shell will be marketing two entirely new motor oils. They are Shell Super Oil 100 and Shell Super Oil 101.  The present Shell multi-grades - Super Shell Motor Oil and Shell X-100 20w/5O - will be withdrawn and replaced by the new Shell Super Motor Oil 100 which is a 20w/50 viscosity oil with low ash content..

The oils are aimed at reducing oil consumption while maintaining excellent all-round performance and making cold starting easy.  A new polymer additive known as LSH or lauryl stearyl hydroxy methacrylate is used in the new oils. This polymer has been developed, patented and tested by Shell and is said to be the most effective and stable viscosity-index improver yet used in a motor oil."

 
I just got of the phone with Petro Can DURON Oil Supplier here in Canada. Apparently they stopped making CI-4 Plus DURON and DURON XL 15w40 with 1375 ZDDP and only supply DINO DURON E and BLENDED DURON E XL 15w40 - They are both under 1000ppm ZDDP but both are JASO MA approved for Wet Clutches and backward compatible to CI-4 and 4 Plus.

$119/ 20L pail for the BLENDED DURON E XL 15w40 that's about $5.90/liter.

In all I don't think present DURON HDEO is much different then Shell Rotella T6 or Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40 formula's today. They are all gone EPA Green with under 1000ppm ZDDP and formulated for Catalytic's. I suppose the new Polymer Anti Friction Additives in some HDEO's are formulated specifically for JASCO MA.

I suggest if you decide to use Industrial HDEO Oil, DINO or Synth-Blended, make sure it's JASCO MA approved for Wet Clutches. One thing about HDEO oil is that it has great Sear Points for combined Engine/Transmission Oil Sumps and Motorcycles.

One thing that concerns me about Harley 20w50 is it is formulated as an Engine Oil; NOT specifically an Engine/Gear Case sump formula as Harley uses Hypoid Gear Oil in their Trannys. The Harley Oil product lacks Shear Point Pressure for our Tranny's. Read what Amsoil has to say about Harley Oil in this regard. I believe Harley Oil is nothing but a re-labeled Valvoline product - Not saying Valvoline is not a great product as they make 4T Motorcycle DINO and Synth Motorcycle VR Racing Oils but it's 3 times the price of HDEO formulas.
 
For Laverda's what?

Your use of the possessive form ('s) implies that you're referring to something belonging to Laverda.
If you wanted to pluralise Laverda, it's simply "Laverdas" without an apostrophe.
 
Any Truckers Diesel 15W40 product will do; however, I recommend Shell Duron (If you can obtain it) or Exon 1300 Mobil or straight Ford 15x40 AC Delco will do. 
 
I use 10W60 motorcycle specific full synth. Originally I used Agip until the local importers no longer bought in the motorcycle oils. I then changed to Putolene until Ravenol entered the local market with their full synth motorcycle oils.
 
What's that cost per liter ?

Does your Wet Clutch survive ?

A Breganzie SF (Whether it's an SFC, SFO, SF 1,2 or 3 will survive perfectly well using Trucker's Diesel 15w 40 Oil if you clean the filter and change the oil every year. Perhaps twice a season if you race the bike with open carbs.

Do NOT use Synth Teflon, Snake or Moly Based Oil or your wet clutch will Quit - Just use DINO Oil Products.
 
"Does your Wet Clutch survive ?" my bike clutches been surviving since 1981 when I bought a Montjuic and raced it on Agip Sint 2000. Now running Ravenol motorcycle specific full synth and the clutches (on all my bikes inc Pantahs, Aprilias etc) are still surviving.
 
ludiluka said:
OO i see that i started laverda-oil war I :D  i just wanted to know if 15w-40 or 20w-50 is good viscosity
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I'm not entering into a pro or anti synthetic vs mineral discussion.
If you live in a really cold climate, and ride in around zero degrees often, then you could go for the thinner oil if you can find one of quality you trust. Otherwise there is no reason to not use the more normal grade. Modern cars run tolerances and have demands far different from our Laverda. My Skoda family car had to use 0-30 (turbo and compressor 1.4litre engine that had more power than the old 2 litre 16v Opel), and all these trick oils are now on the shelves tempting us.
 
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