which regulator/rectifier

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lemonjelly

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I think my rectifier on the Sprint has gone is there a good substitute Jap one or other to be had?

Shaun
 
Is a Shindengeh SH530 correct? and if so where from please?
 
lemonjelly said:
Is a Shindengeh SH530 correct? and if so where from please?
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Lemon, my Redax-supplied one is a Shindegen 530. GPz550. But apparently (according to John Wilson) just about any 3 phase Shindegen will work, just need to find a circuit diagram for the donor bike to check the wiring.

Ken
 
Thanks Dave,but looking at my Mirage one its different from the RGAs.Need to look tomorrow if my wires plug in to my rectifier ,if so or Ken do they need to be cut and rejoined with the Shindegens (as you say wiring diagram?)

Shaun
 
Shaun,

I just fitted the RR10 from electrex to my RGS. It fits perfectly where the original sits but is a little thicker so you just need 2 slightly longer bolts. The wiring is a doddle and it works fine. Malcolm Cox has one on Ebay which is about half the price of the electrex but is 30 years old... So I stumped up for the 2012 option.

Andrew

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/RR10.html
 
Oh and I also found that mine still had one phase from the alternator wired to the headlight switch so that it only kicks in when the lights are on. From previous forum advice, I took this path out and now all 3 phases go to the regulator - rectifier directly.
 
Andrew

colour of wire from headlight switch? i have one yellow and two striped wires(colours I can t remmber without looking) the red live to battery and the earth to frame.All except the earth have been cut rejoined since the Witt DMC2 was fitted.

I ve ordered the Electrex to arrive tomorrow,has three yellows and red and earth,I trust my two striped and one yellow go to the three yellow Electrex ones not worrying about which is which?

Shaun
 
Yes I see. I fitted my DMC2 and did not have to touch the alternator wiring / regulator wiring to fit that.

I needed to replace the regulator-rectifier as it cooked the battery.
 
My battery has cooked,but I m not sure why the wiring was cut and rejoined (very well may I say with shrink wrap~)
 
Here, note the two blanked off/or maybe joined wires on the left,wondering if this was the switchgear loop?Steveo did it two years ago whilst installing the Witt.

Shaun
 

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Shaun.. been and had a look and also checked the diagram  ::)

From the alternator, you have:

Green and white
Yellow
White and blue

The green and white went up to the light switch and then came back down as red and white into the regulator-rectifier.

So, I connected the green and white directly to the regulator-rectifier which takes out the run to the switch.

Now I have :  

Green and white  --- yellow of new unit  (any yellow)
Yellow                ---- yellow "    "    "  
White and blue   ----- yellow  "   "    "

The red from the new unit connects to the red wire that was connected to the old unit and goes to the battery
The black from the new unit goes to earth.

And this seems to work fine. I charge at around 13.2 - 13.5v at any revs (my meter is tiny so difficult to read) with the new battery. The indicators used to flash too quickly at high speed but now they are always stable. Maybe that is an early sign of problems.

Looking at your pic, I think someone has already connected the green and white to the red and white, taking out the light switch.


Hope that helps, Andrew

PS If an expert is reading this and has an issue with the above, I will take no offence! I'm not a mechanic/engineer.  
 
Well hoping wasn"t good enough, 80k into heading for Mallory and dead again,charging when I left 14.2 now 8.2 so alternator next to check/replace.Not one for me though.
 
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