Wiring 8787 Sf

E

Evan

Full member
Location
Texas
This is w/ the Bosch Headlamp. See pics. Ok it has what I call the drop key. Was last running in 1988. I always turn the light on before firing my Gt which also has the Bosch Headlamp just to be sure I have power. The wires from Key switch to headlamp is a good place to start. 1 Wire to headlamp connector are on 8787 is disconnected (not sure where it goes) & at least one was spliced w/ a different color wire. Red wire is connected to 2 wires. I also bought new Lucas switches a couple of years ago. They need to connect inside the headlamp as light switch has brights. This is a start. Then I have the Schematic from the green book. I assume the big Dome diagram is the headlamp just below the clocks. The original fuse box on the side of 8787 has rust so I put on the one from 17580 which is from the Sf2 but they are the same except for the connectors.
I do not need the Kill switch or the Blinkers. & what is that Lucas box in the Headlamp cowling? (img 445) Is that some thing I need connected?
 

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Not sure which diagram this green book has. Here is the one from the factory manual with what you call the drop key ignition switch. This does not have Lucas blade switches though.
 

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All I can say is that a rewire would be a good idea.
Wiring diagrams from 8787 and 17580 are very different.
That little Lucas box in the headlight is an indicator unit, or whatever you call it.
Paul
 
I'm with Paul there.

Looks like you have the wiring gremlins (technical gremlins) well and truly at home.
In my experience, not that uncommon with early GT's and S's - well, the ones we own and several others I have rewired..

The connections to the ignition switch board (inside the headlight shell) can be very dodgy (another technical term), so I would suggest a full rewire if you can.
the early bikes are quite simple on the wiring side.
Your main problem is probably sourcing good quality, tinned, multi stranded copper automotive wire and appropriate connectors.
Beware Chinese 'automotive' wire and connectors.

Good luck.
 
Sorry, bit of brain fade.
It's an SF you are talking about, but still relatively simple to rewire properly.
 
So how do we know we're getting good quality wire? I recycled some wire from a 30 year old Hoover washing machine in parts of the SFQ. Looked like excellent quality to my eyes.
 
piranha-bro2 said:
So how do we know we're getting good quality wire? I recycled some wire from a 30 year old Hoover washing machine in parts of the SFQ. Looked like excellent quality to my eyes.
Click to expand...
Brand, mostly, so there’s a fair chance there was qc and the materials are what they should be. Tinned is good to limit corrosion, but that on its own isn’t a guarantee…
Your old hoover stuff should be ok for a bit longer, if it was good enough for you to consider reusing 👍
 
Brand/supplier, but also the specification the wire is made to, which should be clearly stated on the packaging/drum.
Automotive or marine wire should be very clearly identified as such.
It is fine stranded, and lots of said strands which gives it its flexibility when allied to the correct automotive grade insulation.
As it is only dealing with ELV (extra low voltage), the insulation shall be less (thick)than a mains voltage cable of 110/220/240 volts. So it will be slightly smaller diameter and should be far more flexible.

IMHO most of the automotive wire you see at car places and sold in 5, 10 or 30 metre lengths is OK for a tractor, but not a LAV.
If you can find one, an automotive electrician may be able to help you, otherwise an electrical switchboard builder who works on control systems should be able to point you in the right direction. They both should be able to supply and crimp your battery and starter motor cables properly without the expense of buying a high quality crimper.
 
DavidH said:
IMHO most of the automotive wire you see at car places and sold in 5, 10 or 30 metre lengths is OK for a tractor, but not a LAV.
If you can find one, an automotive electrician may be able to help you, otherwise an electrical switchboard builder who works on control systems should be able to point you in the right direction. They both should be able to supply and crimp your battery and starter motor cables properly without the expense of buying a high quality crimper.
Click to expand...
I crimp those big terminals with a hammer.
Or in a vice.
Paul
 
Andy said:
Yeah…. not really good enough, but confusingly it will usually work, at least for a while. I’m sure you had similar misinterpretations in your trade.
Click to expand...
Been working sometimes for 30 years. That's quite a while. I make all my battery, starter relay, starter motor cables.
In my trade, misinterpretations ver soon got noticed.
Paul
 
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