wiring diagram

Sand blast will remove powder coat as easy as paint. However, having said that, the existing powdercoat will make an excellent base/undercoat for your new top coat as it has a superb bond onto the metal - just need to smooth out the chips etc.

I bought my tank paint from a wholesale mob in Canning Vale. I'll dig their name out for you. Excellent on prices.
 
I think you'd have paint adhesion problems to the powder coat Dave. I know that acrylic lacquer won't stick. Too many stone chips as well so much easier starting from bare metal. If my $40 supercheap sand blasting gun works as well with my local sand as it did with the bicarb soda I certainly got my moneys worth. We'll see tomorrow then.
 
Was watching a renovation show on Fox the other night. They loved the powdercoat that was already on the gear the were doing and rather than clear it all off just gave it a good scuffing to roughen it and applied the new top coat direct. Try a test patch of acrylic and see if it crazes - nothing to lose and plenty to gain.
 
Hi Drikko

I am about to fit CEV indicators onto my Uk Jota. Onto existing wiring. I have the the diodes  etc

You say above the there are 3 cuts - I am not sure I can see where they are.

It looks as if one end of both diodes go in line between connector number 2 on the 8 way by the instrument panel and  then they join the Orange / brown going into Right and Front indicator for one, but I cannot see where the other end of the other diode connects.

Then do I have to disconnect any other wires, if so, which ones?

regards
Glenn
 
GT said:
Then do I have to disconnect any other wires, if so, which ones?
Click to expand...

OK, so you only need to disconnect the 2 wires to the dash indicator, however keep in mind the original diagram in this thread is not the standard wiring harness, this is a cut down one to be built up.

So see diagram below, I have separated the indicator wiring out and drawn it up, all you need to do on a standard harness is disconnect the dash indicator from the left and right indicator wires, tap into those lines with the 2 diodes and connect the dash indicator to the end of the diodes that are joined together and the other end to earth. Now this assumes your bike is wired up that way which most of them seem to be.

I hope this helps!

indicator.jpg
 
Grant,

I don't know if this will work but in bicycle land they remove anodising and the nylon clear coat on cranks, brakes, derailleurs etc with oven cleaner. (I didn't read back far enough to find out what it is your cleaning/ painting etc - too lazy)

Morison
 
Morison, I'll give that a try and see how it goes.
I tried paint remover with only limited success, just a messy gloop leaving behind hardened streaks.
 
Dave, yep the Massy has been real busy lately and the bush doesn't look so virginal anymore, more like a bomb zone. Spent 3 hours on Saturday getting the fucker out from getting it bogged down to the axle in clay on the dam wall. What a fuck up that was. In the end had to get the neighbor's tractor to pull me out.
As for wiring, waiting for the starter relay I brought on fleabay to arrive before starting. Currently stripping the GSXR rims ready for paint.
I also need to strip the frame of it's powder coat, what a pain that is, I'll never use that shite again. The sandblasters in Albany want $200 to do it so that's not going to happen either. Think I'll have a go at burning it off unless any one has a better idea.
 
The last of the 3 colour attempts on my frame and all associated parts (centre stand, swingarm, tool tray, engine mounts etc etc)cost $250 and included sandblasting off the previous 2 coats of powdercoat. Albany sounds like a rip off.

I'd still do a trial of paint over a small section and see how it goes. If it gives a good finish, great. If it crazes, probably great too because it will than all come off with stripper.
 
Trouble is Dave the old powder coat is badly chipped, have done some frame mods so a few places that are stripped already from welding.
In could spend as much time preparing the surface for painting as it would be stripping and I'd much prefer to start with a clean canvas.
It's a pain in the arse trying to rebuild something when living away from the action. The money I've spent on postage/couriers along with fuel driving to Albany/Perth adds considerably to the cost of the rebuild. If I can do it myself I'll have a go as I have more time than money.


 
Rob, you have the space so why not build a blast are, buy the kit and do it yourself?
Then you can charge 200 AUD a time to others.
 
We had a kit down on the farm we used to strip the paint from machinery. Used to put dry coarse river sand through it, after the sand had been filtered through an old flyscreen to get rid of the really lumpy bits. Was a cheapy with a gravity feed hopper thing on the gun but it worked just fine on a single phase compressor.
 
Davo, I'm using sand from the local sand pit sieved through flywire after drying it on the wood stove. I brought a super cheap gun that I used for soda blasting the cases. Goes through shit loads of sand so I made a cabinet out of a large cardboard box with a sheet of glass on top for viewing. Can't see shit from the dust so I'm going to go back to drying and sieving sand and do it outside on a tarp to try and recycle as much sand as possible.

Grant, it's a shit job and have no interest in doing it for dollars. A professional set-up wouldn't be cheap either. My set-up works, just not efficiently. Only doing the rims, I'll tackle the powder coat frame with other means  I've not yet heard about.
 
Getting back to my wiring harness, the diagram I posted has a 8 fuse box. I only have a 6 fuse box so was wondering if I could feed say the horn and flasher relays via the same fuse as well as the high and low beam relays from the same fuse therefore saving 2 fuses.
Don't have the room to fit a larger fuse box either. Probably a dumb question but I am an electrical inbicile!!

Also regarding the battery, I brought a Deka ETX14 about 18 months ago and it's sat on the self waiting for the Motodd to be up and running. I checked the voltage and it's only 11.8 volts. I'm confused about the correct procedure to charge these things. I only have a normal charger, an Arlec 6amp with auto and booster switch. I hear different stories about charging these sealed batteries.
It's the same charger I've been using on the last 3 Oddessys I have used over the last 12 years.

Cheers
Rob
 
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