Wiring multi block connector SFC1000

SkinnyPinny

SkinnyPinny

Full member
Location
Cambridgeshire, United Kingdom
Hi all,
I am replacing the connector that joins the main wiring loom to the tail light/rear indicator sub loom. It is above the back wheel and gets a fair amount of rain/muck thrown up to it and anytime you remove the seat unit you have to separate the connector, (to get to the battery etc) so it gets used more than any other.
I currently have a std multi connector (pictured) but wondered if anybody can suggest a better option, a connector that disconnects easily and water proof would be good. Also can’t find a pvc/rubber cover or boot to suit,
Cheers,
Stuart
 

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Can confirm, I did use the same as Gerald suggested on the 1000 SFC Classic I restored some years ago. Below are before and after pics of the same bike's connectors... DSC_3804.JPGDSC_3806.JPG
DSC_3803.JPGDSC_3805.JPG

Make sure you have a very good and fitting crimping-tool though and that you know how to operate it. It might take some attempts to get a good result but if everything works well, these are water-tight "install and forgett" connectors really.
 
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Good find, Andre, as this set also has connectors for up to 6 cables. 5 is enough though for the seat but 6 can manage the connectors at the headstock.

You might also want to purchase an unlock-tool just in case you plugged one of the connectors into the wrong position... 😉 Or you just concentrade 100% to avoid false connections... ;-)
 
Whatever connector you use, once you are happy with the job and everything works, add a smear of grease to the metal parts. Apart from preventing corrosion, it makes it easier to join and disconnect. If you have to rock a connector side to side to plug it in or out then you will deform the socket part, leading to a bad connection 👍
 
FWIW, many are the reputable brands of connector manufactures in days past. Molex, AMP, Thomas and Betts, et al. Suppliers of these parts were many, all around the globe. Lower cost variants from China in the main ( exclude Taiwan as they maintained quality at slightly reduced price ), appeared and for certain types, are more trouble than the price will ever compensate for. You do not know when purchasing the exact level of quality unless in hand or recommendation, cue the forum here.

As the lads point out, tooling is as important also as connector quality/suitability. Should you decide upon the older 6,4m/m faston type then tooling is plentiful and reasonable cost. On that point, using best quality parts and tools saves money, pithy however all the more true for one off jobs, your not doing hundreds of jobs and the cost has little bearing on an occasional repair rectification job. Extracting a miswired connection can be done with fine flat blade screwdriver ie watch style tool.

Should you choose circular style connector parts, then special extraction tool is required, Laverdaloather is on the money there, voice of experience no doubt, a knowingly grin here. HTH j.
 
iis_iis said:
FWIW, many are the reputable brands of connector manufactures in days past. Molex, AMP, Thomas and Betts, et al. Suppliers of these parts were many, all around the globe. Lower cost variants from China in the main ( exclude Taiwan as they maintained quality at slightly reduced price ), appeared and for certain types, are more trouble than the price will ever compensate for. You do not know when purchasing the exact level of quality unless in hand or recommendation, cue the forum here.

As the lads point out, tooling is as important also as connector quality/suitability. Should you decide upon the older 6,4m/m faston type then tooling is plentiful and reasonable cost. On that point, using best quality parts and tools saves money, pithy however all the more true for one off jobs, your not doing hundreds of jobs and the cost has little bearing on an occasional repair rectification job. Extracting a miswired connection can be done with fine flat blade screwdriver ie watch style tool.

Should you choose circular style connector parts, then special extraction tool is required, Laverdaloather is on the money there, voice of experience no doubt, a knowingly grin here. HTH j.
Click to expand...
John, you just ruined my day quoting Molex connectors!!! Spent quite some time out in the field tracing wiring faults, many related to f.....g Molex connectors. Pieces of junk ex factory.

Gerald
 
Mores the pity Gerald, am the messenger of past ghosts.... still what am i here for but to be of service and disservice, and in your turn do same, with good intent.... circa UK 1695.....

Molex KK series, used them for the iis crank encoder header connection, other places as warranted. Gave no or little trouble, tin plated too, was not an issue. What i did insist was the plentiful availability around the globe, for rectification on various continents, this did transpire over many years. Known supply houses were Farnell, RS components and similar in USA. Known quality and secure supplies made much possible.

You may have well been connected ( like my pun?.... never mind am trying, very ) to types i did not come into contact ( there it goes again...pathetic ) with. Did however work for a multinational whom moved production of USA product to Mexico, as we prepared the machines for Australian suitability the bundle of wires would pull out of the back of the multi pin housings. Improper crimping at best, was either AMP or Molex, the recollections are poor going back 30 plus years, improper crimp connections in the mind perhaps... j
 
John,
30+ years ago when I dealt with Molex connectors, square, white with 9 or 15 pins IIRC.
Same problem, the multi pins would loosen up.
Turned out that the connector body would go brittle over time, fault within the friggin plastic housing.
Gerald
 
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